Replacing turbo

Q&A regarding engines, turbos, and intercoolers and power upgrades

Postby gt_turbo » Sat Nov 06, 2004 4:54 pm

that alternator stud, yea mine is stripped as well. i just did it really ghetto and i placed a socket that was one size smaller than what it was and just smashed it on there with a hammer. it worked for me. also you should find a really long metal pipe big enough to fit a 1/2" ratchet in there and then put your socket/ratchet onto the alternator bolts, place the pipe over the ratchet handle and then just torque and the bolts will start too loosen with ease. it makes it a lot easier because of the longer extension you won't need to use much force at all. let us know if you got any more problems.
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Postby T-spoon » Sat Nov 06, 2004 4:58 pm

I know you guys aren't dumb, please don't be insulted by me asking, but which way were you trying to turn that bolt? The tensioner is left hand thread, so to tighten the belt you turn counterclockwise and to loosen it and take the belt off, you turn clockwise. I believe it's an 8mm bolt head, could be 10mm though. If you knew that and that's not what you're talking about, sorry :)
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Postby Cormudgen » Sat Nov 06, 2004 6:58 pm

T-spoon wrote:I know you guys aren't dumb, please don't be insulted by me asking, but which way were you trying to turn that bolt? The tensioner is left hand thread, so to tighten the belt you turn counterclockwise and to loosen it and take the belt off, you turn clockwise. I believe it's an 8mm bolt head, could be 10mm though. If you knew that and that's not what you're talking about, sorry :)


well i'll be honest......we couldnt remeber so we tried both ways. regardless it was stripped.

and concering gettin an extension to get mroe torque, i'm workion on borrowing a buddies tools as we speak
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Postby MrWOT » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:14 pm

GT4CE wrote:So your new turbo is a CT-20B?

I'm not sure of the max boost, but I believe the CT-26 is only good up to 16 psi, because of it's efficiency it creates too much heat over making more boost useless.

With the ceramic blades it should be higher, I would think.


Whoa! Stop right there. If you push the compressor past 18psi with ceramic blades it WILL shatter eventually, you CANNOT overspeed those things, too brittle, the vibrations will tear it apart. I'd say 17psi is your safe limit with a ceramic wheel. They do spool up faster, but imho, they aren't worth it because they damage so much easier.
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Postby T-spoon » Sat Nov 06, 2004 9:25 pm

Cormudgen wrote:
T-spoon wrote:I know you guys aren't dumb, please don't be insulted by me asking, but which way were you trying to turn that bolt? The tensioner is left hand thread, so to tighten the belt you turn counterclockwise and to loosen it and take the belt off, you turn clockwise. I believe it's an 8mm bolt head, could be 10mm though. If you knew that and that's not what you're talking about, sorry :)


well i'll be honest......we couldnt remeber so we tried both ways. regardless it was stripped.

and concering gettin an extension to get mroe torque, i'm workion on borrowing a buddies tools as we speak


Ah, figured you'd have tried both ways anyway. Good luck with it, hope you're running again soon :)
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Postby GT4CE » Sun Nov 07, 2004 3:58 am

I just tightened my tensioner yesterday, on the ST165 it's a 10mm bolt, and the threads are normal threads, but you have to think of the belt tensioner wheel in relation to the the head of the bolt.

The bolt doesn't move, so to loosen the tensioner you need to move the tensioner toward the head of the bolt, that means you tighten the bolt turning it clockwise.

It's extremely counter intuitive, but I've done it probably 20 times.
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Postby T-spoon » Sun Nov 07, 2004 7:54 am

Cool, wonder why Toyota changed it for the ST185? Eh who knows, crazy Toyota :doh: :lol:
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Postby Cormudgen » Sun Nov 07, 2004 2:43 pm

sounds to me like he was saying that there is no diffence between the 165 and the 185.......maybe i read it wrong
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Postby T-spoon » Sun Nov 07, 2004 3:50 pm

Oh I see, saying the thread itself is not left hand, but in order to loosen the assembly you turn counter-clockwise due to travel of the tensioner on the bolt. Gotcha
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Postby Cormudgen » Mon Nov 08, 2004 6:19 pm

Update:

Finaly got the whole assembly off:

exhuast manifold, turbo, o2 housing, cat

man was that thing a paint to manuever it out whlie trying to hold up all the weight. swapped turbos out and while i had the cat out i went ahead and removed it by hammer and chisel method.

assembled everythign again and reinstalled. began to work on the problem with the belt tensior being stripped. took it off and it cleaned it really well. seems that it was simply rusted along the track it slides along not stripped. then it got dark

things i have left to do:
1put belt on around alternator
2when removing the turbo one line(some type of air line) that was pluggedi into a nipple snaped while removing it. its almsot finsiehd goin thru the jb weld dry period. so i have to install that
3. install elbow that goes from intake to turbo
4.install top mount
5. install radiator

went ahead and did an oil change and obviously coolant flush whle everythign was apart and i was down there. also got the whole cat knocked out. feel like i've almost got somethign accomllished

**on a side not. seems like toyotas exhuast flow design is really crappy. the exhuast manifold looks lik it flows NOTHING as well as the o2 housing. by looking I haven't even found an aftemarket exhuast manifold
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Postby RIalltrac » Mon Nov 08, 2004 6:38 pm

**on a side not. seems like toyotas exhuast flow design is really crappy. the exhuast manifold looks lik it flows NOTHING as well as the o2 housing. by looking I haven't even found an aftemarket exhuast manifold


Personally I think your going to find yourself eating those words, many people have used the stock ex.mani to put out very impressive hp numbers. I dont have them off the top of my head, do some searching on the site its been discussed.

Also Aussie sells a rather pretty looking ex.mani but its for the ct26 and would yield little results over the stock cast piece.
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Postby Cormudgen » Mon Nov 08, 2004 8:14 pm

maybe im wrong.

defintetly have been before. just appears as thought it doesn't have that good of flow

i just can't wait to finalize the instalation and drive the car tonight. its going to be great not to smoke everyone out at stoplights. Also with all that shaft play this thing is going to have to boost better and feel faster.
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Postby Cormudgen » Mon Nov 08, 2004 10:12 pm

Alright,

Just got home, bad news :(

found the piece that needed to be jb welded seemd to have some jb weld creep thru and is welded closed. It is a small vacccum line that goes into a niple on the right side of the turbo. To reference what i'm talking about when the turbo i on the car there are 3 holes on the rear, right side(compressor). The bottom two have a bracket and I belive part of the wastegate screwing into them. The top one has a niplle screwed into it with a vaccum hose coming off of it going back towards the firewal but I can't tell exactly where too.

Does anyone know what this is? I'm so anxious to put it back together tonight but would hate to ruin anything.

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Postby T-spoon » Mon Nov 08, 2004 10:48 pm

Are you talking about a nipple screwed into the compressor housing? That one goes to the wastegate, and then the other one from the wastegate goes to the T-VSV I believe. If that's not the one you're talking about, any way to get a pic of it?
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Postby Cormudgen » Mon Nov 08, 2004 11:25 pm

yup, that the one that i'm reffering to.

got it sitting beside me with a jb weld again. this one is much cleaner. in ingeniously stuffed one end ito a hot dog bun so it would sit better. much better idea than havin a toothpick insid apparently. anyways worked on the car for a lil bit more, went ahead and put the alt belt back on(which went without a hitch suprisingly) as well as dropped radiaotr back in hooking it up in all the places that won't interfere with that hose.

parts left sitting in my room to insall:

1.hose that goes to waste
2.elbow that goes from intake to compressor housing
3.top mount intercooler

sounds like around a 15 minute install when i get off work tommorw. i can't wait. i went ahead and orderd a Greddy Type S Bov and flange that should be here Thursday as well b/c I don't want to risk any compressor surge with these ceramic blades.
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