98+ 5sfe block

aus jd 2703

New member
built2run":2u8jkj18 said:
600 awhp can be done with a 3S-GTE and stronger fasteners no sleeves no special crank no special anything just a clean unbored 3S-GTE block and good 3S-GTE crank

I agree with you but a 2.4l will have more torque, meaning It is better to suited to everything except maybe drag racing where you can nearly always keep rpm's high, especially with launch control of aftermarket ecu's.

fyi for what its worth I have a built 3sgte gen 2 block in my shed waiting for a built head etc, so I am not biased towards a 2.4L, I am honestly just curious about the possibilities.

MWP: 4mm difference in diameter will only net 2mm when offset ground as stroke is relative to the centre of the rod end which can only move 2mm.
 

MWP

New member
aus jd 2703":10l7jfbq said:
MWP: 4mm difference in diameter will only net 2mm when offset ground as stroke is relative to the centre of the rod end which can only move 2mm.

:doh:
 

built2run

New member
Well if it does net +8 mm then yeah that's a 2.4 but it will have a horrible rod ratio, won't rev to 8,000 rpm

And it would mean I wasn't factoring in an offset grind. It's + 2mm at the crank when simply machined to fit the 3S-GTE rods adds the 4mm total stroke

So yeah your right I've just not had the need to do this nor had anyone have me build one that way

I'll have to do more car math to figure rod ratio and max rpm. There is also a deck height issue that may have something to do with this
 

MWP

New member
Modern piston materials & piston coatings have made a lot possible.

The 2.4L 3SGE engines i talked about will be hitting 8k or more very reliably.
Next time i talk to the guy responsible for them (TRD aus head mechanic) ill try to get some more details.
Im guessing he wont want to give too much info away though.
 

built2run

New member
Well yeah if it's within the proper piston speed (rpm is directly related to piston speed) I'm sure it will last fine
 

built2run

New member
Wait but the measurement is centerline to centerline not overall diameter of the crank (my mistake above) but that does make for +4mm total :/
 

built2run

New member
Okay maybe I'm just not explaining myself well, look at it this way a 4mm offset grind will leave the rod at the same height basically as the stock rod at tdc but at bdc will be 4mm lower. Hence the total gained stroke of 4mm and you can probably pull off the extra .1 mm and have the stroke be 95mm flat making it a 2311cc
 

MWP

New member
Yeah, you are right.
I missed the fact that doing a offset grind to take a 54mm big end down to 50mm only shifts the center by two 2mm... not 4mm.
 

___Scott___

Active member
As usual, I'm late to the thread but here's a simple drawing to illustrate the offset grind of a 5S crank to be used with a 3S rod:
OffsetJournal.gif


As a daily driver, at higher altitudes, the 3S could really use more torque. An offset grind seemed like an easy way to get there until I started adding in the cost of pistons with a higher pin height. For the minimal gain at the substantial cost, I decided to live with the 3S as is.
 

MWP

New member
CP will make a custom piston for not much more than normal.
Someone also mentioned a Supra rod (1JZ im guessing) might be suitable as it has 50mm big ends.
 

zero06

New member
once again, and as always this got out of hand. :roll:
I was looking for the actual differences between the Pre 98 blocks and the 98+ blocks. what needs to be done to mount our 3s accessories (ps pump/ac comp) to a post 98 block. I am also under the impression that there is a bracket from tranny to block that needs to be tapped as well as some grinding on the casting by the center diff.

I don't want to offend anybody but I don't care what you heard, read or think you know. or who knows what about the concept of stroking for that matter.
I want real answers here from people who have had the two blocks infront of them, what is Identical to the 3s, and what is different.

also some info on the oiling system differences (tappings ect) would also be appretiated

STAY ON TOPIC :shoots:
 

built2run

New member
The differences from the pre-98 to the post 98 or minimal When talking about their accessories and their placement the main difference is the block casting updates that make it more resistant to damage over high mileage and in our case make it handle even more power.
 

built2run

New member
Not trying to bash anyone here either. There is nothing I think I know. I know from working on these cars for a long time. I was the engine builder for a good while at garage CRW and part owner at vendetta performance. And yes what I was saying maybe wasn't clear because of the way I type but it's factual. And like I said externally as far as where things are placed the 3s and 5S-FE are almost identical.
 

built2run

New member
On the 5S-FE there is no turbo oil supply drilled through obviously. And no oil squirters. As far as oiling in the block itself that's all. The pump though is slightly better largely due to a smaller drive gear that causes it to spin faster.
 

MWP

New member
zero06":2g6o9hj2 said:
I don't want to offend anybody but I don't care what you heard, read or think you know. or who knows what about the concept of stroking for that matter.
I want real answers here from people who have had the two blocks infront of them, what is Identical to the 3s, and what is different.

STAY ON TOPIC :shoots:

:withstupid:

This is a public forum, we'll discuss what we like.
You certainly have no ownership of this thread, especially since you haven't posted in here for quite a while.

Ive had a gen2, gen3, pre 98 5S, and three 98+ 5S blocks together, examined them, and built the best engine i could using parts from all three.
Im not giving you any info after your little rant now though.

If you want info that accurate, how can you trust any anon person on the internet. Youll have to do some work yourself.
 
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