Suspension and other discussion
Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:29 pm
Okay, I need some budget stopping power. I was thinking just a new set of pads, but then I decided that no matter how good my stupid one-piston stock calipers are, It wouldn't be a bad Idea to get new calipers either, at least for the front. I'm only looking to spend about 6-700 dollars here, and the less custom modification the better.
Is this even possible, and what do you think?
Wed Aug 11, 2004 10:36 pm
For your price range there really are not a ton of choices for non-oem brake components. I don't know what all is involved (I know its not exactly easy) but there have been a few folks that have found a way to mount ST205 calipers and rotors. It may be worth looking into.
If that is not your cup of tea then I will suggest new pads along with new rotors. Contact SpeedToys and order Porterfield R4-S pads all around, along with shiny new, Cryo treated and slotted rotors. The rotors are Brembo OEM replacements. The Cryo and slotting both cost extra, but are WELL worth it. They feel the same as stock during normal driving, but once you get a little heat in them, they get better, and due to the cryo treatment, you'll have a much harder time warping your rotors. Let me know if you've got any questions.
Thu Aug 12, 2004 5:00 am
Those porterfield pads are definetly worth the cost. Excellent stopping power!
Are the front calipers on a 185 one piston?? I actually just rebuilt my two piston fronts on my 165, new seal kit from japan, bead blasted and hi-temp painted, and new rotors. I'm lovin it!
Thu Aug 12, 2004 2:49 pm
Yup, Toyota went back to 1 piston caliper on ST185.
Anyone upgrade brake master cylinder?
What are the options here?
Thu Aug 12, 2004 4:15 pm
if your looking for better response from your stock components, then picking up a set of slotted/cross drilled rotors, the porterfield pads & some ss braided lines would be a good place to start. Along with changing out your brake fluid, that should come in under you 600 budget and will make a difference.
Thu Aug 12, 2004 10:37 pm
I went with Goodridge SS briaded lines (@ $130) Porterfield R4S pads on all 4 corners (@ $140) and slotted factory rotors (@ $350)
I am very pleased with the stopping performance, but to be honest I do wish I would have bitten the bullet waited and gotten the kit from rocket offroad.
Sat Aug 14, 2004 4:40 am
what about the supra turbo MA70 upgrade? those brake are huge, maybe they can be used or bigger wheel than 15inches through
Sat Aug 14, 2004 9:07 am
I would change pads
SS brake lines
and the most important part of braking (not the size of the calipers)
the tires. Stickier wider tires would probably be the best upgrade,
assuming your brakes are not fading under track/street use (then
I would change fluid first)
My 2 cents
Sat Aug 14, 2004 7:49 pm
At the very least, SS lines and completely new fluid. Also rebuild the calipers for smooth operation.
You can remove the dust plates from the back of the hub if you are having overheating problems. Also, direct a duct from the front bumper to the rotors.
If you want to stop HARDER, go with slotted rotors. They will bit the pad more and give you a little better stoppage. The drawback is your pads won't last as long.
Tue Aug 17, 2004 12:32 am
Blue_GreyST185 wrote:Stickier wider tires would probably be the best upgrade,
Yeah, Problem Is That I already have the widest tires that I can fit on the stock rims.
I asked the guy to fit 225s on it and He said not me, not here. So I'm sitting on 215's right now. Next summer we put 16x8 and 235/245 on. We'll see.
Tue Aug 17, 2004 3:30 am
At the moment I am using cross drilled and slotted rotors with Porterfield R4-S pads and Motul 600 (something like that) and the braking is MUCH better than it used to be. Before upgrading, I was running R4S pads on stock rotors and it was better than stock.
Tue Aug 17, 2004 4:47 am
Any of you who is using cross drilled rotor, has it developed any crack around the drilling hole?
Tue Aug 17, 2004 2:38 pm
When you swap out the brake fluid try Ford High Performance Dot 3. It has a dry boiling point of 550 deg F which is very close if not equal to or greater than the Motul, Wilwood, AP and all the other expensive brake fluids. It's dry boiling point is actually higher than ATE fluid. It is also dirt cheap, around $3-4 a bottle from the ford dealer.
It's all we run in the formula race car I work on.
The only thing to watch out for is its low, for a performance fluid, wet boiling point of about 290 F. So just change it out often.
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