Custom front and rear big brake kit

Suspension and other discussion

Postby gt4rcdude » Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:21 pm

88st165 wrote:wow :shock: amazing work!

what kind of driving are you doing that would require brakes of this magnitude?

is 17" the minimum dia wheel you can use?


Oops, posted the pics before I answered. Yep. 17's work fine. It might work with 16's but you'd need a wheel with big caliper clearance. Heck I coulda used a 335mm rotor! I tried my old 17 inch wheels and they foul the front caliper.
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Postby magnum » Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:17 pm

Nice work. :notworthy:
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Postby gt4rcdude » Sat Mar 29, 2008 3:23 pm

The last pics:

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Postby syko says » Sat Mar 29, 2008 6:57 pm

Oh my! those things look very good! Big props to you for going that route.
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Postby lumbercis » Sun Mar 30, 2008 12:34 am

I'm confused.

Isn't there a bolt on wilwood kit that fits without all the fabbing? What do you get out of doing it this way (besides stock e-brake functioning)?

J.
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Postby Azonic » Sun Mar 30, 2008 12:41 pm

satisfaction!

and yes there is a kit...
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Postby Meurz » Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:57 pm

Azonic wrote:and yes there is a kit...

... which has the same size as the brakes on my mountainbike :P
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Postby gt4rcdude » Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:53 pm

lumpbercis wrote:I'm confused.

Isn't there a bolt on wilwood kit that fits without all the fabbing? What do you get out of doing it this way (besides stock e-brake functioning)?

J.



Is there a bolt on kit? Yes, for the better kit, front and rear it's $3500.00. I did it for half. But for those that sell the systems, I can understand why they charge what they charge. It's a huge amount of work.

What do you get out of this? I picked a huge front caliper with a large, strong structure without concerns for clearing lots of different wheels. I picked a piston size closer to stock. Moving the caliper out already gives you a mechanical advantage. I think going with a bigger piston is not worth the extra pedal travel. I chose a rear caliper that is a closer to the stock size, eliminating brake bias headaches. I can go directly to the source for replacement parts. I have the OEM parking brake. Plus, it was kinda fun in a sick way!

I bedded in the system yesterday and the power is ridiculous. Easy to modulate, rock hard pedal and no bias issues. It seems to get better every time I apply the brakes. I have around 1-2" of pedal throw and I feel like I'm pushing on concrete. I'm sure the stickier/wider tires play a part. Fade is non-existent. I have no doubt it will continue to improve the next 50 miles or so.
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Postby fhalperformance » Sat Apr 05, 2008 7:32 pm

I have the wilwood front and rear superlite big brake kit and they arent quite bolt on. The seperate caliper for the e-brake was a pain but I love the look of it. The only pictures I can find of them right now is at a horrible angle so Im going to look for some better ones.

How much did this end up costing you total?
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Postby gt4rcdude » Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:37 pm

New OEM/Brembo front rotors: $80
New OEM/Toyota rear rotors: $160
First order from Wilwood: $450. (4 discs)
Second order from Wilwood: $700. (2 discs, minus 2 returned,4 calipers, pads.)
Brake lines and fittings: $130.
Hardware, A-N or Grade 8 :$80
Shipping of hubs/parts to NJ and back: $200

Pain and suffering: incalculable
Help from my friend/machinist: priceless
Resultant performance and appearance value: $1,000,000

Not a direct cost but,

Wheels with large caliper clearance: $1250 (4 plus 1 for a spare)
New tires: $700 (4 plus spare)

More for appearance:

H&R spacer $125
Professional fender rolling $200 (money well spent)

I flew twice to NJ to help (although I fly for free) and rental car once.

I can't begin to tell you how good this setup works. Bias is spot on. I've got essentially stock brake pedal throw but with solid feel at the bottom, tremendous power with zero fade, easily replaceable components and what I think is a killer looking package. It was even more than I'd hoped for.
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Postby fhalperformance » Mon Apr 07, 2008 11:41 pm

Now you just gota do some stopping distance tests to see how it performs to stock. Sounds excellent
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Postby Meurz » Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:53 am

fhalperformance wrote:Now you just gota do some stopping distance tests to see how it performs to stock. Sounds excellent

Why? Big brake kits are not for stopping in less distance, that's limited by the tires and ABS system in the end.. They can cope way better with loads of heat which you get from braking hard several times in 'a row'.
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Postby gt4rcdude » Tue Apr 08, 2008 5:02 pm

Meurz wrote:
fhalperformance wrote:Now you just gota do some stopping distance tests to see how it performs to stock. Sounds excellent

Why? Big brake kits are not for stopping in less distance, that's limited by the tires and ABS system in the end.. They can cope way better with loads of heat which you get from braking hard several times in 'a row'.


Very true. The tires are the limiting factor. The new, wider, softer tires make the biggest difference. The big brakes buy me zero fade after repetitive stops, more thermal capacity and much better feel.
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Postby Denver_whiteST185 » Tue Apr 08, 2008 6:45 pm

Meurz wrote:
fhalperformance wrote:Now you just gota do some stopping distance tests to see how it performs to stock. Sounds excellent

Why? Big brake kits are not for stopping in less distance, that's limited by the tires and ABS system in the end.. They can cope way better with loads of heat which you get from braking hard several times in 'a row'.


Well, they are for stopping in a shorter distance since they apply more force over the same amount of time (unless you lock up the wheels), along with heat dissipation and other benefits. Tires and most abs systems DO make a big difference, but that’s kind of a moot point since those will make a difference to regular brakes and BBK's. Our ABS system is a different story, since i see it as junk. i found i could brake more actually and stop quicker with it disabled.
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Postby Meurz » Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:05 pm

Denver_whiteST185 wrote:Our ABS system is a different story, since i see it as junk. i found i could brake more actually and stop quicker with it disabled.

I hope you never have to do that in a REAL emergency situation cause you'll crash your car. I did many advanced driver courses, some with the CS, some on a skid pan, but no matter how much you train, you'll always react differently when you're on the road and you're actually heading into a big crash. Then you don't think, but stamp on the brakes, lock up, etc...

Well that's my view anyway. :)
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