Eating Wheel Bearings

I was wondering if anyone else has had these issues like I have. Ive been doing wheel bearings ever since I bought this car 2-3 years ago. Total Ive replaced about 7 total in all four corners. recently i had my car on a dynopack dyno and I belive this just made it wear out even faster.

Is this a common problem?

Im using oem bearings and hubs. Lowered on Ksport coilovers, whiteline swaybars and oem bushings 17x9 et30 do you think that my offest has anything to do with my issues? should i raise it so high that I have more nutral load on these bearings? Is there a upgraded bearing that I could use?

this last bearing that went bad lasted for 7k miles. I hope someone has some insite on this.
 

klue

New member
Hmmm, Ive got OEM bearings going on 3 years now with heavy track abuse. Sound like some other culprit, maybe your hub is worn out? axle mating surface? car to low? excessive load?

more info the better
 

tubasteve

New member
Axle nuts are not being tq right, and possibly not checked after 500-1,000 miles.
I mean I had the same problem on me red one, I actually noticed after 3000k the axle nut was shearing off the castle nut with the cotter pin. Kinda rare, I work at a shop runing 160 psi line pressure using the newest air guns possible, then check tq, I noticed my first one when the brakes were fading when I was driving that was way too late( after I bought the car) when the axle nut comes lose I was not noticing it until my thrid 112$ hub and my 64$ bearing...........I started monitering it, came to find out it was doing this on my red car. On my black one not as bad.

Let me know.
Jr
Ps, I feel your pain.
 
Well the car is lowerd and I don't know how low but I can show pix and I can measure ride Hight at a later date. I checked axle torque about 500 miles after replacemebt and replaced the hubs this time around. The axles are new from a supplier (empi) and I don't know what else to do. Should i raise it? Does the upright ever wear out? Im planning on doing the repair soon and want everyones help on this. And I do track it once in a while but I haven't tracked it on this set of wheel bearings.

Tubasteve what are you torqueing it to? I'm torqueing it to what ever the bgb states. Also what suspension are you on?

Klue same question.

Maybe my car is just two low? And my axles are pushing out on the hubs when the suspension is traveling? Where is this extra load coming from?
 

tubasteve

New member
In three inch drop, empi axles.....yuck, I have a 100% failure rate with those at my shop...I'm not a euro shop, they work well with euro cars from what I hear.
My suspension was stock when I had issues as well as my current setup. I'm 3" drop, with 1" spacers, with tc wheels. I know bgb +20 ftlbs(s2000 had sane issue on 00-05) I'm naturally honda, but apply what they said due to the same situation.
 

tubasteve

New member
Btw, the car o had issues on I usually drive very quick thru a mtn/canyon cruz about 25 miles long 3 times a week plus track days every friday. that was last year when I parked the car.(engine rebuild)
 
so what axles do you recommend? I have thrown out my stock ones thinking i was never going to use them again both had ripped boots etc . Is there a better solution? also it wasnt just the fronts rears have been replaced once as well. I haven't kept track of what sides i've been replacing I just keep replacing them. its annoying and costly. This car has sucked my wallet more than anything ive ever owned. LOL but i still love it.

I just want to spend my money elseware else like making power.

temperacerguy. see post 1. 17x9 et 30
 

Caconman424

New member
I pulled my hub, and the mating surface that meets the bearings surface was very worn and scratched up. I asked my mechanic, he said that, that kind of wear can cause premature bearing failure pretty easily
 

klue

New member
Heat build up? Using the proper washer behind axle nut? any play in the shaft? bad support bearing ? pass side
 
No washer the nut is flanged? I used the bgb and torque it to spec should I add 20fp more? I checked torque and nothing is loose after 500 miles But when I checked it after 8k miles and the axle nut is still tight.
 

klue

New member
The alltrac axle has a thick washer, then nut, then castle nut + cotter pin. I always use blue loctite and torque exactly to spec
 
Are you sure that the axle carrier (rear) /steering knuckle (fronts) are good. On my first trac I replaced the hub (part with studs) and the bearings. Unfortunately I let the bad bearing go too long and it hogged out the axle carrier. When the new bearing was put in it lasted about the same amount of miles as your did before destroying the bearing again. Then I got to do the job again this time with a new carrier and all was good :)
 

toayoztan

Moderator
94 MR2 Turbo":2ho4aw1j said:
No washer the nut is flanged? I used the bgb and torque it to spec should I add 20fp more? I checked torque and nothing is loose after 500 miles But when I checked it after 8k miles and the axle nut is still tight.

If you have the flange nut, you don't need the washer of course. The 90 and early 91 had the nut and washer separately. The later model to 93 had it as one piece.

Bryan
 
new steering knuckle is quite expensive 300 usd. Has anyone else replaced these items? Im willing to try and replace it but this time my bearings will be up words of 500 a side?!?! If this is going to fix this problem im all for it. I jus dont want to install this knuckle and it still go bad in the next 6-8 months.
 
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