Hydro-Ebrake

CSAlltrac

New member
Has anyone ever thought of doing one on one of our cars? Im kicking around the idea, and since a stand alone system with separate calipers is crazy expensive Im talking about a T-in setup. Not only would it be good for getting the tracs butt where I want it, they can also be used when doing the 1/4 mile to pre load the driveline so nothing breaks.
 

4rsnduction

New member
CSAlltrac":3nnulwnl said:
it be good for getting the tracs butt where I want it
Ever thought of the immense stresses this puts on the transfer box, rear diff and front/center diffs (which are joint together)
 

klue

New member
ive done it before, but using the same caliper. Works good but you gotta remember to clutch in lol
 

CSAlltrac

New member
^^ Yeah it takes an acquired driving skill for sure, you also cant use the regular brakes when using the hand brake. Im still on the fence with this, might do an LSD first then see how the car does. Right now the car needs a little bit more over steer
 

l0ch0w

New member
You sir are going to ruin your VC if you try e-brake turns... this isnt a front wheel drive... Try focussing on developing your suspension first.

If you want more oversteer, try getting solid poly-mount subframe bushings, solid diff mount, and stiffer suspension bushings in the rear and maybe some coilovers. This will help to reduce the body roll in the back and help to push a more even weight distribution. Keep in mind, the torsen LSD that came factory in the ST205 and in RC ST185s is not that strong. They have a fun habit of exploding in cars over 300ftlbs... Look at getting a clutch type LSD if you want something that can tolerate more torque.

If you want to durifteroo then you bought the wrong car...
 

CSAlltrac

New member
I have everything you listed. I did not know the factory rear diffs. are weak. I am over 300ftlb so the clutch type is what I'll have to look at. I've been leaning towards not doing the hydro. brake for a few reasons, the potential of killing the trans. has always been at the back of my mind and at the top of my list for not wanting to do it.
 

4rsnduction

New member
l0ch0w":3azk6190 said:
You sir are going to ruin your VC if you try e-brake turns... this isnt a front wheel drive...

If you want to durifteroo then you bought the wrong car...

+1 and "like"
 

klue

New member
Wont be no full on drifts, but you can dial in the alignment to completely neutralize the car. Ive got mine set up where its very easy to modulate the throttle/or if im being snazzy clutch kick and get it to oversteer with the sway bar on netural. On tighter circuit you can stiffen it up to help it rotate more

you wont get any crazy angle for drifting
but you will be able to get it to turn faster, which is what you want to do.
 

CSAlltrac

New member
klue":155pd55s said:
Wont be no full on drifts, but you can dial in the alignment to completely neutralize the car. Ive got mine set up where its very easy to modulate the throttle/or if im being snazzy clutch kick and get it to oversteer with the sway bar on netural. On tighter circuit you can stiffen it up to help it rotate more

you wont get any crazy angle for drifting
but you will be able to get it to turn faster, which is what you want to do.
Exactly what I'm looking to do. Not looking to turn it into a drifter or whatever other term was used. If I want to drift ill buy an RX7 with a LSx motor.
 

wakkjobb

New member
Hit up Legacy of Dan; he had one of em doohickeys in his 165 a while back... something about not always having equal braking force between the wheels = surprise turning or something.
 

l0ch0w

New member
I believe Wilwood makes an adjustable brake proportioning valve.

You still have to be very careful, because if you happen to lock up either the front or rear half, then your VC will splode.
 

4rsnduction

New member
Whats the point of taking the risk ?
These things arnt the cheapest to repair when they do break.
Honestly i wouldn't bother using the handbrake for anything other than parking and emergency stopping power when the fronts have too much brake pressure and may lock up and you need very mild friction on the rear end to balance everything...but thats not the same as yanking on the handbrake and spinning around a tight hairpin.
 
I have a handbrake on my rally car. Works well. All 3 of my diffs are plated. No visco and no torsen. I run gravel events usually.
 

klue

New member
you guys sound like some pussss EEEE's
clutch in when you use it, how hard is that. If you break it then i guess you didnt clutch in...

:smokes:
 

4rsnduction

New member
klue":1e2t182o said:
you guys sound like some pussss EEEE's
clutch in when you use it, how hard is that. If you break it then i guess you didnt clutch in...

:smokes:

Even with the clutch pressed in the rear wheels and front wheels are still turning because the car is in motion.
If the wheels are turning then there is some torque on the drive shafts, tail shaft and throughout the gearbox and transfer box.
Locking the rear wheels and tail shaft with the handbrake will still stress the shit out of the transfer and VC because the front wheels still spin in the forwards direction.
 

ccmo612

New member
Hydro hand brake is not worth it unless you are going to be using it all the time such as a rally. You just use the hand brake to break the car loose in the rear you don't need to get back on the power until you disengage it because you need all four wheels to push you through and out of the corner. So in any normal situation you are not going to be at full power and torque when you use it.
 
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