ST165 suspension install q

ReDRuM

New member
So I converted the rear struts to install the KYB inserts. I'm also changing the springs to aftermarket. I had to drill out the new bushings for the AGX's to fit thru.
Now I've run into a slight glitch. I tighten up the top nut on the strut insert. This then prevent the strut bushing from rotating. When I install the strut and springs the strut bushing bolts don't line up with the bolt holes ( I have Intrax springs so the original impression in the rubber boot won't work. So I guess I have to compress the spring form two angles whilst its partially installed and bolted in. Seems like a very awkward task. After I compress the springs I'll be able to turn the strut bushing ...
There is not a metal plate thingy below the strut bushing as there is for the fronts.
 

ChrisD

New member
Bushing in the strut mount I assume? What strut mount are you using? If there is no plate what was the original spring resting in at the top?
 

ReDRuM

New member
yup no upper plate on my ST165
I'll get a picture later
The rubber boot has a thick lip to it like a hat . It sits in and over the upper coil of the spring. On top of this is the stock strut bushing which as you know is triangle shaped.
So the coil spring fits into the depression in the lip of the boot from underneath and the strut bushing has made a depression on the top of the lip of the rubber boot. SO I just matched these up these when I re-installed the stock set up, thinking this was just usual for this car. Seemed weird and a PITA - still has to persuade the mount to line up with a hammer and flat screw driver on the bushing mount bolts up top .
The decided the get these springs which Chris D was kind enough to send me .. I hadnt finished the fronts so I figured why not, and decided to take it apart again ( A well of a lot easier the second time of course )

The setup seems to make sense because the strut rod threads extend appropriately above the strut bushing. I there was a plate there I think thread portion would be too short. The boot lip is about 8 mm thick. Or maybe a should ditch this boot and see if I can place a plate in there instead. Id did already buy the strut boots but the stock ones are in decent shape apply to this setup
 

Killtodie

New member
I did the same thing to my car.

are you talking about the rear upper strut mounts? Those need to e drilled out to compensate for the thicker shaft.
The key doesnt work with the KYBs, just enlarge that hole, and tighten the nut. I've had no issues after 10k miles.

also, did you use the MR2 fronts in the rear and MR2 rears in the front
 

ReDRuM

New member
Funnily enough I thought of doing the same thing, using the MR2 setup in reverse. I own 2 MR2T's. But I didn't have the balls to experiment and just followed the usual instructions. The front inserts are still simple drop in .
 

Killtodie

New member
ReDRuM":1kl5npi0 said:
Funnily enough I thought of doing the same thing, using the MR2 setup in reverse. I own 2 MR2T's. But I didn't have the balls to experiment and just followed the usual instructions. The front inserts are still simple drop in .

Yes, you put them in in reveres. I contacted KYB and got their strut info on depression, and resistance and stuff, and that makes the most sense.

What exact issues are you having? I did this like 5 months ago and can assist.
 

Killtodie

New member
hmm. I cant recall having issues like that.

I do know that the stock rear strut top mount hole needs to be enlarged. If there was an issue with the rotation being locked, it wasnt an issue when I installed them back in.
 

ChrisD

New member
Ah OK. So the issue is that when you put the intrax spring on the angle of the strut mount goes wonky. Thanks for the pics, that helps me remember what it looked like. All looks normal. I used those springs with the factory rubber boot and factory mount. Depending on which strut you do have to drill it out, just mind how you plan to tighten the top nut. For the mount orientation itself can you rotate it to one of the other positions? I don't recall having an issue but it was a while since I installed them. There should be a painted mark on top of the mount telling you which side is supposed to face out
 

ReDRuM

New member
Yup I drilled out the strut bushing.
I clamped down on the strut rod but over the boot so as not to damage the shaft.
Setting the strut bushing is the issue as once you release the spring the bushing cannot rotate. I have it sitting in the car currently. Im not sure if there's a mark on the bushing that will correlate with what's its position shoulde be , but yes with the different spring it all changes.
I'll see if I can apply a single spring compressor whilst its there, and hopefully rotate the bushing to its correct position if its loose enough. It's getting to be pain compressing and uncompressing springs . lol .
Will hopefull get to it at the weekend. Thanks for you input guys.
 

ReDRuM

New member
The spring is still compressed enough to prevent the bushing from rotating. The spring has to be compressed to space between the rubber boot lip and the bushing.
It\s almost better to just switch to coilover rather than fooling around with just shorter springs
 

ReDRuM

New member
For those who might undergo the same process and are installing aftermarket springs, Ive just realized that it might be wise to note the position of the strut bushing in relation to the strut housing when the stock set up is removed. You might get lucky and match the bolts holes in the chassis.
 

ReDRuM

New member
Well I have the aftermarket lowering springs installed.
Fronts are of course easy.
It's the rears that can be an issue.
It is possible to compress the springs ( with spring compressors of course ) whilst they are roughly in place ( the strut mount bushing nuts not on ). Once you've compressed the springs enough you can stick your hand down the strut mount hole and rotate the strut mount bushing until the bolts line up , up top.
Now if I had recalled a bit of basic geometry, when you put the spring/ housing/ bushing together, it's best to have the triangular bushing "pointing" inline with the welded on bolt mounts since these will of course be pointing at the tires. You can get it at least 95% right straight off the bat. I did this for the second side and it saved me a bit of hassle.
* Be careful - you could potentially have your fingers chopped off if the spring compressor lets go in the middle of the process - so I'm not advocating for this process - it's at your risk etc ;)
 
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