For those with 25mm rear H&R spacers...

daveryan

Member
...did you have any problems with the backs of your aftermarket rims being flat, and not able to accept the nubs of the stock studs that poke through the spacer. I have the spacers on with the stock rims and that works OK, though there's still a little contact inside the recesses. While test-fitting my TD rims however, there's no recesses and the rim is sitting on the tops of the OEM studs, which I'm assuming is bad. I have some 5mm spacers, but stacking spacers seems equally ghetto. I guess I'll have to choose between new rims or the wider track - not both.

Anyone else have this problem and have to install shorter studs to put on spacers? Maybe having the wheels machined would be easier... I don't know, just frustrated. Rocketeer recommended these exact spacers with the rims and I guess I just assumed it would work.
 

daveryan

Member
Since I can draw faster than I can take the rim off...

spacer.gif
 

RIalltrac

Active member
thats very strange, the face of the spacer should be even with the studs, so when you lock the nut down theres nothing there but a flat face. Pull out a measuring tape and make sure they're 25mm, I'd hate it if someone machined something to the wrong size. Otherwise what are the chances someone put the wrong sized studs on there? Worst case I would say would be to head down to the auto parts store and find a set of shorter studs to put in. Its not that hard to do with the hub still on the car.
 

daveryan

Member
It appears that the 20mm are DRS style, so I didn't accidentally get 20's. I doubt anyone put longer studs on the car since I'm the second owner and the car had zero mods on it when I got it. Guess I just have an oddball, or (less likely) all 10 studs have backed out.

So is it just the fronts that require removing the hub? I didn't realize changing studs could be done without a press.
 

daveryan

Member
So I assume I'd have to remove the disc:

rear.jpg


Does that then reveal a hex or shank area on the stud that I can grab hold of? Assuming they aren't press in type studs - I can't find a diagram of the back of the "axle shaft" to see.

rear2.jpg
 

Rocketeer

New member
Ah. Now I understand. That's very weird. H&R recommends these for that car specifically and I along with other's have used that spacer. I do have to qualify that I have used it in the rear. Not the front. However, that should not make a difference.

I think you have to tap those studs out. Alternatively you could cut them while on the car with a 3.5" angle grinder with a cutting wheel. You might have to clean up the ends slightly.

Again, something is suspect with the stock studs for that to happen.

JC
 

daveryan

Member
This is on the rear. I thought about cutting but if it's not accurate would the wheel be thrown too far out of balance? Or would the effect be negligible? Measure twice cut once, right. They're only like 5mm too long. By "tap" you mean with hammer, not press?
 

Rocketeer

New member
The effect would be negligeable as it is so close to the center of rotation. Best practice would be to replace the studs. Why you have longer one's is beyond me. Yes, I meant with a hammer.

JC
 

Gary

Moderator
This is how the 25mm H&R spacer fit in the rear of ST185.
The stock bolts and H&R lugnuts sit right in the holes
and do not interfere with the wheel mounting surface.

spcr2jp.jpg
 

daveryan

Member
...and here's what they look like on mine:
port.jpg


but let's cruise on over to the starboard side:
starboard.jpg

hmm... looks good here.

Guess someone did some work on the left side and used the wrong studs. I stopped in the local NAPA and picked up some stock studs (they had 'em in stock) and sure enough, a disc-off comparision proves it.

But seriously, I'm not getting those studs out with any tool I have. I don't live in the sort of community where I can really lay into them with my claw hammer without getting yelled at.
 

jprine01

New member
the studs are not that hard to remove, i think you can buy a small clamp designed to remove them if you dont want to hit them out. The hard part from my prospective will be dealing with the drum parking break. Reinstalling those clips was a real pain for me, and my tool for normal drums wouldnt fit.
 
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