Help understanding the gt4dc citcuit for code 54

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Postby Gary » Sat Nov 04, 2006 7:42 pm

Did you take care of the coolant level sensor?
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sat Nov 04, 2006 7:53 pm

I just took the lev wire and ran it to the ground metal.
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92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Postby Gary » Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:04 pm

I believe they suggest you to link two pins together, not grounding it. :shrug:
Now, this one is a bad suggestion but, have you reset the ECU?
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:33 pm

Yes. I reset it a couple of times. I am doing this at the ecu. So what other wire is the LEV supposed to be linked to? This could be my problem.

I reset everything, then I let the car ilde fora bit and its fine. Its until I rev the engine or try to drive then the code kicks in.

Maybe if I hook the LEV to this other wire it might fix my problem. Thanksfor you help gary. I just need to know what the other wire is.

After looking at scotts diagram and yours, what if I put LEV where M+ and M- is?
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Postby Gary » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:16 pm

After I look at the wiring diagram, the LEV should be grounded in order to avoid the error code.
In the write up they short the 2 pins and one of the pin is grounded.

On Scotts diagram, I'm pretty sure that the diode is not necessary.
And yes, you can put LEV to M+, M and E because they are all grounded.

One thing though, make sure the INT pin must be hooked up to a 12V source.
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:27 pm

That may be my problem. I am using my INT as a power source (B) before the diode. I thought it provided the 12v source.

Could it be that it makes enough power from the INT to prevent code 54 at low rpms or idle but when there is a larger draw that it can not ive enough power to the source?

Where should INT be hooked up in this equation?
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Postby Gary » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:38 pm

In the original setup, it is hooked to a relay coil and from a relay coil to ignition key.
So, I would guess, any 12V source should be OK.
But when ever I'm not sure, I put a fuse in between.
(so that the fuse will blow before the ECU is fried)

Are you using ST185 harness?
On ST185 harness, the 12V ignition key wire is Black-Orange.
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:40 pm

Yeah, I am using the 185 harness.

So should I just run a power wire from my fuse block under the dash to act as B and leave INT connec to the B wire?
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Postby Gary » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:51 pm

That what Scott did.
He uses a 10W bulb instead of resistors.
It doesn't make much different though.
But I'd still put a temporary fuse on the power wire.
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sun Nov 05, 2006 5:21 pm

Here is the one I am about to try. My changes are in red.

Image
Coldiron
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:59 pm

So I unhooked the grounded LEV and then started the car for a test. Imediatly the code 54 started. I think my LEV is fine just being grounded. My pump circuit must be the problem since the IC pump is not designed to run all the time, maybe it does not check for it till the car is under load.
So I am going to run a fused power source to where E and INT are then see if that solves the problem.

I also hooked it up like the image I made. That caused a code 54 shortly after startup.

Then I hooked it up the same order as Scott's bulb circuit.

The light stays off for about 4 seconds then comes on. Maybe the way I had it hooked up the first time is right, but the resistance value needs to be increased or something.

Any suggestions?
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
www.noritoy.com | noritoy.deviantart.com | http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=19891
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Postby Gary » Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:30 pm

Hmmm.... I wonder the same thing.
Scott and Greg are happy with their bulb circuit.
And 1k resistors also work according to Kris Carter.
:shrug:
I'm kinda stump now.
Noone is really sure how the ECU react to the missing pump.
May be you should try higher (or lower) resistance.
Too much resistance, the ECU will think that the pump is not there.
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:57 pm

Yeah, I am lost. Its weird. Any other combo makes the code 54 kickin from startup. Using the first was keeps the light off till I push the gas.

I am going to see if scott might have any ideas. If not, I might try the bulb idea.
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
www.noritoy.com | noritoy.deviantart.com | http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=19891
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:18 pm

So in the st205 wiring diagram, the other wire on the LEV sensor is just a ground. So grounding it to the body is its solution.

Here is the full bgb page and an enlarged veiw of the pump layout.
After looking at this, I wonder if a relay needs to be involved somehow.

I am going to try a few more things and if all else fails, I will try the bulb method.

Image

Image
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
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Postby CMS-GT4 » Mon Nov 06, 2006 5:07 pm

Here is an image and reply from Kris (Who did the writeup).

Hi JC,

glad you find the article fairly useful...so far! Not so good is that you are having problems getting it to work for your particular installation.

I fear that the control of the pump is a bit tricky and on the 205 this is not a straight forward solution, unlike the 165 and 185.

For the stock setup on a 205 the article I wrote works fine. The IC level sensor is bridged and the resistors are added to the wiring AT THE PUMP.

The monitoring of the circuit so that the ECU does not throw a code is open for debate, and I know that this has been tried before, without success

I have a diagram I sent to someone before and can send you that may help? Please drop me an e-mail to kris@gtfours.co.uk and I'll reply with the diagram.

The solution may work around when the ECU activates the pump relay, and using this signal/voltage may help.

For background info the pump operates like this on the stock 205:

Press throttle - pump starts and runs all the time the throttle is pressed
Throttle released - pump continues to run for 30s and then stops
Throttle pressed - pump runs again

Hope that helps?


The image looks like the circuit we made at the ecu.

Image

Sofar what it looks like is I prevent the code at startup. So it much check for the LEV first, then it checks for the connected curcuit. Which is why at start up and idle the current setup at the ecu keeps the light off. Once i get ovre 1700 rpm, the relay activates the pump which looks for the pump working. So somehow for this to work at the ecu, I think the INT needs to trip a relay that might send a signal to MTT, M+ and M-

What I wonder is, if at idle the base value is fine, is just needs to change. So maybe a relay with a different resistor. Activated by INT then a resisted 12V passes through the relay to the rest of the cucuit.

If I can't get this to work, then I will just do the light bulb method.
Coldiron
92 st185 (205 swap) | 03 350Z Track (sold) | 13 Pilot | 17 Mazda3
www.noritoy.com | noritoy.deviantart.com | http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=19891
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