I would like to majorly chime in on this!!!
I hah this dreded code after getting some gas here about a year ago.(nothing to do with the gas station, but I did go back and ask...)
After doing research on here for a while I noticed it was a normal problem. People using the 97 sunfire knock sensor for testing but stopped. But the main issue I was having it seemed like it was the dreaded bad harness, id like to say a "sheilded" does give the pcm a better signal/more pure this is not needed for testing it seems for the quick drives I was doing.
I ordered through my parts house a new knock sensor....4 actually when all said and done....anyone know what list is...well I paid only a little under that for the knock sensor. Just like the other fourm says its like a. "Poor mans fuse". Well sadly when the car would hit this fuel cut due to a bad knock sensor harness it was actually also taking out the knock sensor I found out during my testing. I used a wire externaly ran so I would not waste anymore time with the damn harness. Found the sheild was actualy touching the (ks) wire right at the knock sensor due to bad crimp and the oil that has broken down the knock sensor. I bought the last sensor id ever buy from toyota and sat down with my trusted father to figure out what type of frequency the sensor was putting out and what range it worked at when mounted to the engine. The sensor generates an a/c signal and the computer looks at the certin ranges in which the changes of pre-ignition. Finding the sunfire one works very well within the same range, the engine seemed to respond better and still react damn near a little better than the stock sensor and not blow when a episode of code 52 from too much boost/I did force the code while on the rack with both sensors in. I was pulling the current motor I was doing all the testing on so it really didn't matter to me, I just wanted to fix my most expensive vital sensor the car needs in my eyes. From my parts house the(sunfire97}} sensor was about 20 or so and the harness from GM was roughly I think lie 12 maybe. I've ran this sensor for almost 3 years on the engine before actually pulling the engine to do a freshen up on here. I did not need to run sheilded wire for my testing, I did moniter the entire time when running between the two sensors, and from the other research I beliveve this is the way I will go from here on. Since putting the sunfire ks on I've had zero problems, and I'm never buying a 150$ sensor that weak again.
There's nothing wrong going to stock, but when the sensor:
1) same thread pitch/goes in to the block
2) is that cheap.
3) won't break when you screw something up....unless you are dumb and don't inspect your car when getting the code 52 for safe mode
4) well I have too many reasons why. I like using factory parts as offeten as possible, but one that breaks that easy....
I do have every sensor moniter and data logged on that car and the data shows good, and the car has benn a dream, I belive the sensor responds faster as well.
I will further say on my other 100% stock, well, I do have the factory snesor......