P06 Honda conversion, poor mans EMS

[WannabeGT4]

Props for thinking outside the box.

Is there any chance of using the Honda ECU with the Toyota distributor, coil and ignition module? If not do you have some detailed drawings or instructions for making the Honda distributor work?

[88Allheeze]

i wish i could have used my toyota one but a honda uses 3 pickup for sensing distributor rotation and also the coils have differnt impediance. I do have the exact messurements on how to get a honda distrubutor machined and the exact messurements on making the shaft adapter. If you want I could see how much my moms boyfriend would charge to machine yours to to fit.

Remember you will need an obd1 honda distrubutor, id suggest getting one with an internal coil from a d15 honda ( should be easy to find).

The reason i suggest to use the honda dist. is because the size of the housing is a little bigger than the stock toyota but it has an internal coil and small igniter, so you can get rid of that off ur firewall.

I have currently modified my wireharness for using the honda setup, which you get ride of alot of un needed sensors. Also Im re running my harness to follow the firewalls pinch weld, so i dont have the pesky harness running though the intake manifold ( alot easyer to remove the injectors) If your gunna keep the tvis, id suggest to either have an rpm switch made ( i have some schmatics if u want them) or get a VTEC ecu and use the rpm output of ur choice to activate the solinoid.

[88Allheeze]

on thing you could do instead of cutting and remaking the wireharness, is to take an old ecu and use the female plug from it, then use it as a jumper harness between the honda ecu can ur stock harness, i did this for testing before i remade the my harness

[coyoteboy]

very impressive mate, what size maps etc does it have. Any tips as to where to find the software so i can look round it?

[88Allheeze]

www.tunewithcrome.com

It goes from 500rpm in 100rpm increments to 7900 rpm, then from 26 inches of vac to 41 psi of boost (for my 3.5 bar map)

It also has a afr table so it uses the o2 to find the target afr for the rpm

this is the main map editor im using, then ECU control is more for gauges and datalogging

[bozo-merlin]

I am interrested in your idea

do you take a VTEC honda ECU to keep low impedance injectors? (ODB-0)

or

do you take a JDM B18 ECU to control knock ? (ODB-1)


a friend of mine tell me the same mod, but with nissan ECU as CA18DET or SR20DET use individual coil (my dream on a 3SGTE)

[88Allheeze]

i kept my same low impedance injectors and kept my ballast reistor for the injectors, you can take any honda ecu and make it work as long as its odb1... maybe u could get a obd 0 and make that work also but theres more programming easly available for odb1.

The honda knock boards are crap, they cant read knock under boost correctly or even forged internals. always reading phantom knock!

[gearhead313]

, they cant read knock under boost correctly or even forged internals. always reading phantom knock!

this is true, yet they are actually so good that they can read NA knock very well.

[concealer404]

P61 also has an onboard knock board, and it's regarded as actually being very good. Good enough that we felt comfortable enough to test it on 87 octane to see if it would pull timing and all that jazz to prevent from blowing the engine, and it did. (93 Integra GS-R) No matter how much we beat on it.

Good luck finding one in the US, though. Only came on 92-93 GS-Rs w/ B17a engine. Much like the alltracs, only 3000 ever came over here.

There are also knock board add-ons for most honda OBD0-OBD1 ecus. I also think that some of them were randomly put on from factory, as i've tuned a few P32s that had them, and the owners definitely had not put them on, and were entirely confused when they saw that extra board in there.

You can get conversion harnesses to go from OBD2-OBD1, and i believe OBD0-OBD1 anyways. You can purchase pretty much anything you need from moates.net. They also have the equipment for datalogging and real-time tuning, e-prom burners and all that good stuff.

I know this is old, but Bozo-merlin, you should be able to use pretty much any mid 90s honda ECU, even if it's coming out of a Civic DX with no knock or vtec.

88Allheeze, when this is finished, if it's not already, i would be extremely interested to see a write-up, if you don't mind.

[88Allheeze]

I have been finished for a long time, it works great, I have already traded the write up or plans for this a couple times.

[concealer404]

I have been finished for a long time, it works great, I have already traded the write up or plans for this a couple times.

Oh.

I searched around for the write up for awhile, is it posted on this site somewhere? If it is, i'll keep looking.

[bloodMoney]

Speaking of which...
Dustin did you ever get that tps connector that you were looking for?


~bloodMoney

[88Allheeze]

no i didnt, i just went ahead and got a 4.0L jeep TB to go on my tubular intake manifold im making.

By spring ill have my cams, 57trim t3/t4, tubular intake and exhaust manifold with a wild ported head.. I cant wait!

Did you get urs up and running with the honda ecu yet?

[polarmoment]

so you are using ECUcontrol for logging/tuning? did you have to do anything special to get the RTP to work with crome? i've got freelog running pretty smoothly on my MR2 now, and slowly picking my way through the maps.. i've read that RTP is buggy at best, but i'm trading a guy a harness for a bunch of boards and i have a free NVSRAM coming, so i plan to give it a try.. are you using cromepro? or free?


i'm using the stock idle control valve as well, just grounded the RSC pin and let the ECU operate the RSO pin.

i also set mine up to work with the stock toyota ignitor. it requires an RTL inverter consisting of 3 resistors and a transistor (any switching NPN works):



essentially, the honda ignitor expects a signal that is pulled to 12v when the coil is inactive, then pulled to ground when the coil is to charge, then pulled back to 12V to fire the coil. the 3SGTE's ignitor expects to see a signal that is pulled to ground when the coil is inactive. the ignitor controls dwell, so it determines when to start charging the coil. the ignitor sees a 5v signal to arm, then pulled to ground to fire the coil. the above circuit accomplishes this. if used with a civic/integra distributor, you could use a honda prelude cap and retain the stock toyota coil/ignitor arrangement.



this is an excel file i made with the wiring harness pinouts for honda and toyota and where to connect them. this is for a gen2, 91 MR2, so it should work for the appropriate ST185 engine:
http://www.apexology.com/files/schemati ... _PGMFI.xls

keep in mind that honda numbers their pins alternating top and bottom rows, while toyota numbers them left to right, top then bottom. the spreadsheed is converted to the toyota style, so the honda side will not match up with the pinouts on the honda sites.

[polarmoment]

i had also thought about using a GM CALPACK for filtering the knock sensor to a digital 0-5v pulse, then using that pulse to pull the IAT line to ground and set up like 9-10* retard at full hot for the IAT, decaying with an RC time constant. wouldn't be able to log it, but it would theoretically pull timing under knock and then decay back to normal..

mostly thinking on paper on that one though.