Megasquirt FAQ, writeup (Updated 30/10/09)

tw2

New member
Quark25":nc05491q said:
If you use launch control you will need to cut by ignition and not fuel. The fuel let in the exhaust makes the turbo spin.

How?

Quark25":nc05491q said:
It a BAD idea to cut rpm by fuel... You will lean out the mixture, the rest is logic.

Why would it "lean out"? There will be no fuel at all so it wont be a lean mixture, it wont be a mixture at all. I can't see how this would be any different to the unused spark of every wasted spark ignition system.

I am not attacking you, I really do want to know the answers to these questions. I will use EDIS anyway since I have it, know how to use it and my car will be a moderate power daily driver where I have no need or want for launch control etc anyway.
 
Ok, I was thinking that launch control was retarding timing, so, EDIS would be ok with this because it could receive a SAW signal with retarded timing info. The same apply to RPM ignition cut.

Thanks for the info

Sam
 

Quark

New member
The fuel in the burning hot exhaust will ignite. Look at people running open wastegates, the flames comes from launch control letting fuel into the manifold. Exploding fuel creates extra flow from expansion.

True about the mixture, it wont let any fuel at all. But before you cut it, you will lean it out, its not an ideal way of cutting rmp. Imagine bounching on the limiter with a fuel cut. If its a daily driver then I wouldnt care either.

I had a supra running on EDIS6 but changed it over to direct coil firing. All you need are 2 drivers to make i work.

Some pictures of my project.
Kreider moped 36 tooth wheel.
739371_l.jpg


Mounted on car
739358_l.jpg


First attemt... Hihi dont put it there, no room.
739363_l.jpg


Ms boks PnP
1314428.jpg


1314429.jpg
 

tw2

New member
Thank you for the pictures, quite helpful. Feel free to post as many as you like if you have more useful stuff. The way I see megasquirt is a cheapish solution to those without a whole pile of money to blow on a plug and play standalone. I just assume that anyone racing will have enough money to buy the proper system that matches exactly what they want to do.

Which bolts did you use to mount your sensor? It looks like one is a lower timing cover bolt and maybe one below that aswell?
 

Quark

New member
I used the oilepump bolt, but its not strong enough so I have to make a support to one more bolt one of these days.

I did actualy order a AEM from MCS, but i never arrived. Reasons where that i had to use the car every day, now that I dont have to use it everyday I can play around with ms.

Only downside to MS2extra compared to AEM EMS is running of the injectors which is not sekventiel.

To make HP doesnt need to cost a fortune :-D

Pictures of the mounting and wiring will be up doing the week.

And yes we need to help and support each other with this system. I am in the progess of finding the right setup for the Idle valve

Dont worry about the OEM toyota water sensor, its so close to the GM in calibration that it is not worth worring about.

Sorry if I misspell words, I dont write english that much.
 

tw2

New member
What board are you using? The 3.0 can and the 3.57 does have the ability to run our stock idle up valve apparently. I have posted up the latest wiring diagrams on page one. Any extra, missing or incorrect info, just let me know and I can add stuff.

Haha not a problem, I can't speak any other languages. sekventiel= sequential I assume, yeah batch fire isn't the best option but it gets the job done.
 

tw2

New member
I will be using a 3.57 board which the PWM circuitry is already installed in. I know absolutely nothing about the software yet. I have downloaded it and had a small look but thats it.
 

tw2

New member
I got my camry V6 ecu to use the plug from for my patch harness to avoid chopping up the stock loom. Now I just need to work out the best way of removing it and wiring to it. I was thinking of chopping the board between each pin and desoldering it all to keep as much length as possible. I don't know how I will wire it to each pin though.

It looks like a lot of mid-80's to 90's ecu's probably have the same plug as the 3sgte. It even had the plug type printed on the top. 1vz is a crappy 2.0L V6.

ECU3.jpg
ECU2.jpg


Seems a bit of a waste destroying a whole working ecu for a plug but I guess these are everywhere and not worth anything. As you can see here vice grips are very useful for undoing a lot of the outside screws in the ecu case, they are done up very very tight. A 1/4" socket set with screwdriver fittings works very well for the 8 corner screws so you can really apply some pressure.

ECU1.jpg


ECU4.jpg
 

___Scott___

Active member
If you want to remove the connector without damaging the pins, you can use a heat gun to melt the solder all at once. The connector will drop out, possibly with a little persuasion.

If you are not trying to preserve the pins on the connector, just use small snips and clip each pin near the PCB. Bend the first row up so you can get to the second row.
 

tw2

New member
Now I am confused. This is from the diyautotune faq...
A) the addition of a PWM capable idle control transistor allowing control of a PWM idle valve or a standard on/off type FIDLE valve without need for modification. This was a common modification applied to the v3.0 board and is no longer needed on the v3.57.

But you are correct, the ms2extra manual says something completely different. Sorry I am not sure what you mean by this?
Quark25":1d7us1mr said:
just for you not to burn that part down

One more dumb question- MS2extra is only a software/code upgrade right? It doesn't require any hardware changes?
 

tw2

New member
I sent diyautotune an email to which they replied immediately.

While the TIP120 is a heavier duty transistor than the one on the V3.57, we have found the transistor that comes on the V3.57 is more than adequate for driving a PWM IAC valve without upgrading. We've used the standard transistor in the V3.57 to drive PWM IAC valves on several cars, one of which has been Megasquirted for over two years, and not had any problems. And we haven't had any V3.57s sent back to us with the transistor having burnt out (we'd replace it for free under warranty if such a thing were to happen). We don't believe that it is necessary to upgrade the stock IAC transistor to a TIP120

Just received my 1st order from diyautotune. They ship internationally very quickly (8 days to New Zealand) and that loom is very high quality. You can see all the wires are labeled with the various MS codes. I ordered a wideband bung for my downpipe since I cannot afford a wideband kit at the moment but I really need to take my DP off and fix it up and re-heat wrap it.
MSstuff.jpg

All in all I thoroughly recommend these guys for megasquirt stuff and they have full technical support.
 

tw2

New member
Those two holes in the pulley are M8x1.25 I found with my tap and die set after gouging all the dirt and crap out of the threads. So.... if you got a big enough trigger wheel around 5.5" that it clears the edges of the pulley then the cheapest crappiest way possible to mount your wheel is to simply use two M8 bolts to hold it in. Locktite would be a good idea since you don't want to put so much tension on the trigger wheel that is starts to warp. You can see the two holes in the slots of my 4" wheel here.
Triggerwheel.jpg


I think I will do something similar except as I want mine mounted around 10mm from the face of the pulley I will make some spacers to hold it out that far. The tec3 alluminium adaptor way of doing it is nice but a little over the top.
 

tw2

New member
Pulley measurements for a stock gen 2 pulley are:

The whole overall diameter is 135.10mm (5.32")
The inner sunken diameter is 84.10mm (3.31")
The crank bolt diameter as sitting at the surface of the pulley is 46.50mm (1.83") but beware it curves up to that point.

The two M8x1.25 bolt holes for a pulley puller are approximately 6.1cm apart.
The height of the pulley from the middle to the top of the closest wall is 25.40mm (1")
 

Quark

New member
ahh New zealand. I know 1 guy and 2 girls there.

Okay.. That nice with the PWM valve, strange that they tell you to upgrade it in the ms2extra manuel.

I just didnt want you to burn down a circuit.. that all. From not upgrading the PWM transistor.
 
yes, those 2 M8 bolts are the easiest way of doing it. I suggest you to use some spacers (aluminium cylinder with 8.5-9.0mm diameter hole). The lenght of those spacers should place the trigger wheel something like 3-4mm from the crank pulley edge. Why? Because the trigger sensor is a magnetic sensor, the crank pulley is magnetic. You do not want the sensor to be attracted by the crank pulley, you want it to be attracted by the trigger wheel only.

I'm saying this, because your trigger is smaller than the crank pulley.

Sam
 

tw2

New member
Quark25":1qen2hy2 said:
Okay.. That nice with the PWM valve, strange that they tell you to upgrade it in the ms2extra manuel.
Thanks, they make it sound like it is recommended to upgrade as it isn't designed to deal with the load but it works perfectly fine anyway.

pit_celica":1qen2hy2 said:
I'm saying this, because your trigger is smaller than the crank pulley.
I figured that would be a good idea. Unfortunately I only have 7mm slots in the trigger wheel so I might make a M8/M7 hybrid. Should be interesting.
 

Quark

New member
Cranked my car over today. Everything is fine, tomorrow I will atach the coils and see if it starts..

I have a msq if you would like to se it..

Supra coils
745271_l.jpg


MStune is going to be running all the time on this 2xdin screen. It a touch screen, but no output for pc, so I need some other device to navigate in mstune
745274_l.jpg


Just a little tease picture of the turbo on a mark up engine..
711195_l.jpg
 
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