vipec PLUGIN ST185 ecu replacement board!!

Talk EMS and Computer related performance

Postby Corey » Wed Dec 16, 2009 2:25 pm

Thanks for the info :)


I hope Nubkins sees this thread and weighs in - as he just had one installed into his car.

Also, I noticed they offer 2 harnesses which work with external dash displays (AIM and Motec)

Don't suppose it can be made to send signals to a Sard Stack display?
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Postby 5thgenbliss » Wed Dec 16, 2009 10:27 pm

GRPAGT4, that makes sense now. I did not know it was illegal in Aussieland. That's a nice option. It doesn't matter for us here in Canada, that I know of anyways so either version would work, just depends on how one wants to build their project.

The bottom line is i'm glad Vipec has both and more and more guys may be going this direction. I am pretty sure i'm going with Vipec this Summer too. It will be nice to have others on the board use the same system so we can help each other out like all the other ECU guys.
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Postby Hic » Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:46 pm

One thing I can vouch here:

once you setup the vipec and tune the car, you won't need any help at all :D

Nubkins had his drama with intake and IC but that was it guys. No more problems.

Take it from there :D

And of course I am always willing to help here, as all the other vipec dealers are.

There are no questions left unanswered really quick.

SARD should make the protocol for Vipec, that is what AIM did.
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Postby cozmic512 » Thu Dec 17, 2009 4:19 pm

yes the vipec replacement board is out.
I actually have the separate pnp box.
that uses the actual vipec computer instead of the stock ecu box.

the pin outs from 90-91 are different than 92-93.
my pnp box worked in a 90 car, but I had to repin about 10-12 wires for it to work in my car. make sure the pinouts are correct when getting the pnp board.

I like the comp so far. still having some teething issues figuring everything out, but when Cam from Lightspeed helped me get the pins right, the car started right up and nice smooth idle with 550's.

the replacement board is about $1250-1400 from what I recall.
regardless what direction you go, you will have to wire in an IAT sensor and a water temp sensor. it is gm, but its gm NZ or Australia. very easy to do, just solder 2 wires each with a new clip. other than that, just wire in the wideband and your good to go.

Im anxious to see how it will perform over time.
regards,
Cory
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Postby Corey » Fri Dec 18, 2009 3:53 am

regardless what direction you go, you will have to wire in an IAT sensor and a water temp sensor. it is gm, but its gm NZ or Australia. very easy to do, just solder 2 wires each with a new clip. other than that, just wire in the wideband and your good to go.


I thought it used the factory sensors - including the water temp sensor :shrug:

Just curious, where did you install those two sensors?

thanks
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Postby Hic » Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:16 am

Corey

if you use PNP box, then it will use stock sensors.


Just to add one hint :D

Unscrew the stock toyota water temp sensor and screw in new one :D It is the same thread size ;)

Also, it is advisable to use vipec IAT sensor, simply because is MORE accurate.

Stock IAT sensor is in AFM (stupid location), and you want the new one in the TB, just make small plate instead 5th injector and screv it in, it is 1/8 NPT thread.

Easy and anyone can do it i n 30mins.
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Postby Corey » Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:28 am

Sounds good :)

I'm seriously considering the vipec pluginplay board.


If i were to install it myself, could the "Quicktune" software get a safe enough tune on its own for me to drive to a tuner to get it finished?

Thanks :)
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Postby Hic » Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:33 am

Corey

PNP comes with solid basemap.

I recommend Zeitonix WB with EGT sensor, it works great and never fails like Innovate shitty stuff.

That way driving under the law spped limit can take you 100 000 miles to any tuner you choose :D

Jst don't push it and you can drive to the end of the world.
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Postby Corey » Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:40 am

Awesome :)

Sounds great. That's what I wanted to hear, because my tuner is some 1000 km away.


Really appreciate all the info :)

Cheers
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Postby 5thgenbliss » Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:09 am

Corey, who is your Tuner? i'm starting to think who I should go to as well :)
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Postby edmonton_oiler16 » Fri Dec 18, 2009 4:02 pm

I believe he wants to go to KO Racing.
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Postby Corey » Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:19 pm

I believe he wants to go to KO Racing.


Only if I go with the Hydra.

But if I decide to get the Vipec, I'll be driving over to Lightspeed.
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Postby 5thgenbliss » Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:35 am

interesting, i was thinking the same things. Lightspeed, is that Cam Koole? i keep getting Lightspeed and the other Alberta place mixed up. I'm thinking its Cam since he's the Vipec guy. I talked to him last summer, he said he should have a competant guy in our neck of the woods that can tune Vipecs. You should ask him about that. Depending when you are going to get your ECU, i may be ready as well. If you go to Alberta, I might be inclined to make a road trip out of it :) Might as well get 2 Vipecs tuned.
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Postby Corey » Sun Dec 20, 2009 6:30 pm

Depending when you are going to get your ECU, i may be ready as well. If you go to Alberta, I might be inclined to make a road trip out of it Might as well get 2 Vipecs tuned.


That would be a blast.

I don't expect to be getting an ECU until I finish school, so about 1.5 years.

So probably a bit later than you're planning to get one.
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Re:

Postby cozmic512 » Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:42 pm

Hic wrote:

Just to add one hint :D

Unscrew the stock toyota water temp sensor and screw in new one :D It is the same thread size ;)

Also, it is advisable to use vipec IAT sensor, simply because is MORE accurate.

Stock IAT sensor is in AFM (stupid location), and you want the new one in the TB, just make small plate instead 5th injector and screv it in, it is 1/8 NPT thread.

Easy and anyone can do it i n 30mins.


hey guys sorry for the late reply.
Corey, the water temp sensor screws right in to where the toyota one is and all you need to do is snip the clip and solder on the new one.
The IAT is in the afm mires. the grey one.
If you want to get rid of the afm, which you def do, you have to wire this in.
I actually drilled and tapped my TB. Im going to see how it works.
if it isnt good, I will do what hic said and make a plate for the cold start injector and install it there.
then just run the grey afm wire to it, then the sensor ground (brown).

but as hic said, very easy to do, and worth getting rid of the afm.
you saw how the Nubkins car reacted when they got rid of that.
regards,
Cory
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