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Talk EMS and Computer related performance
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Re: car running rich

Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:05 pm

I guess you could do it that way, these are the intake couplers:

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The big connection on the top right goes to the MAF, disconnect that and plug it with something like a soup can as suggested, or a PVC pipe end from a hardware store. Then disconnect the smaller line that goes into that same connector, plug your tire valve or whatever into there and cap off the other end, then apply the air. Be sure both of these are clamped down well as the air pressure is going to want to push them out or leak around them.

alltracman78 wrote:I think he means a tire valve on the boost tester itself as the way to get air into the system.


Ah gotcha, in that case you just build a tester with one of those instead of an air compressor fitting. It's literally two components glued together, it's a pretty basic tool.
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Re: car running rich

Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:40 pm

819_ay wrote:Thanks for the help guys, but just until recently the the wideband would indicate at idle at 13.8-14.1 and now at idle it's about 11.8-12.1.... Why the sudden drop is what I'm looking for.. Like I said in my initial post the car runs still runs fine but I'm worried that if it's always rich it might end up causing unwanted problems



Thats exactly like when my single wire O2 (jdm car) wire was crushed by the alternator belt, I would get 1 point richer everywhere, idle would be 12-13 and same with cruising even low 11's. Boosting was sluggish with reading under the AEM readable gap <10.0. If I remember correctly I used a Mustang 5.0 (Fox body) O2 sensor, works like a charm , but you will need the 2 bolts adapter to thread on the round sensor. In my case I welded a bung to fit it on my downpipe...
(NTK 23552)

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