how to upgrade 165 turbo/ic to 2 gen turbo/205ic ** UPDATED*

d1alltrac

Active member
saved_1992":3olwn4pp said:
question for the guys that have used bolts to install the manifold on the head, why not get a longer bolt and cut the head off to make a stud? the reason i ask is it is real easy to strip out threads on an aluminium head.

:shock: i didnt even think about that, i'll probably do that next time the turbo comes off if i cant find some studs
 

88st165

New member
^saved, what happened to those manifold spacers you had pictured? i know d1 has the one from JGS but what happened to the other one?
 

saved_1992

New member
saved_1992":2iznru3f said:
from my measurements 3/8 should work also, the ones in the pics i bought on ebay, the skinner of the 2 was 35.00 and thicker one was 65.00 but is was much better in quality. just sold the flanges to 91alltrac.
yes no mods needed

ps i will try to track down the place i bought them from

sorry no luck but now i do remember (read old posts) the 3/8 came from ebay the 1/2 inch came from a link on this site (i think Gary posted it up).

but with the feed back from the guys using the .5 spacer i dont know if the 3/8 is thick enough for the acturator to clear oil filter bolt
 

d1alltrac

Active member
i just wanted to back up what mike said a couple posts up...

i seriously doubt you would get enough clearance at the actuator arm with a 3/8 spacer, i think 1/2 is perfect.
 
just looking at the clearance issue with the acuator arm and its about 2mm
using the 1/2 spacer, the 3/8 might be a little close but would work with a little work.

the stud issue, I was planning on getting longer bolt and making studs but wanted to get the car going. they are grade 8 bolts so I would have to use a cutoff tool at work which I didn't want to wait for. also I took pretty good mesurements and the bolts actually go deeper into the head then the stock studs.
 

88st165

New member
so far i have collected:
-twin entry manifold: $35 from mr2 owner
-twin entry ct26: $100 from same mr2 owner
-flange/spacer: $86 from JGS, waiting for arrival
-aussie dp: $200 from rightrac, waiting for arrival
-gaskets posted by saved_1992: $88 from local toyota dealer
-longer exhaust manifold studs: ?????
total so far:= about $509 just to give people a rough estimate if they also want to do this.

is there anything i am missing? possibly a thinner radiator fan for clearence? any extra hoses, lines, gaskets, etc that people have had to purchase because they ran into a problem?
 

saved_1992

New member
88st165":3ekf2ugk said:
so far i have collected:
-twin entry manifold: $35 from mr2 owner
-twin entry ct26: $100 from same mr2 owner
-flange/spacer: $86 from JGS, waiting for arrival
-aussie dp: $200 from rightrac, waiting for arrival
-gaskets posted by saved_1992: $88 from local toyota dealer
-longer exhaust manifold studs: ?????
total so far:= about $509 just to give people a rough estimate if they also want to do this.

is there anything i am missing? possibly a thinner radiator fan for clearence? any extra hoses, lines, gaskets, etc that people have had to purchase because they ran into a problem?

way to go on getting parts seems like you did very well

should also need a longer hose from the turbo to the ic inlet
studs (long bolts with the heads cut off) and matching nuts/washers
you should be able to trim the fan shroud for needed clearance

is your rubber oil return hose in good shape? warning do not use worm gear hose clamps on this hose they will cut it
 

88st165

New member
for those that have already completed this swap/mod, how does it perform? is there a noticable gain with using the stock twin entry turbo? my personal reason for doing this is that i want to run the SB kit in the future and plus i am having prob with my current stock turbo. does it spool better/faster?
 

d1alltrac

Active member
i guess it spools a little faster but its not that noticable, i really just did it cause my stock turbo was blown. :wink:
 

88st165

New member
well i dove into it today and everything came off without a hitch...... now the 2nd gen stuff is a different story, can anyone offer me advise on getting the oil line to bolt up? i cut the support bracket already but it still seems very stubborn and wont budge. this seems to be the worst part about this mod.
 

saved_1992

New member
on the test fit i eye balled where the line needed to be, removed the turbo/manifold assem and bent by hand to get as close as possible to bolting up. when was close used a straight pick to finish the adjustment, personally was not too bad just went slow and made small adjustments as needed.
 

88st165

New member
i have it all lined up but it just wont go farther down, that "s" shaped bend in the line that comes from the oil cooler looks like it is on the verge of being kinked if i force it to go any lower... is there anyway to replace that line with something more flexable? could rubber oil line possibly be a solution?
 

saved_1992

New member
try pming the guys that have just done this, they might not visit this thread.

you are right about the adjustment, it is on the verge of kinking the line

I dont know about a rubber line, oil will deteriorate it, you could get special oil lines, then you have to worry about how to secure the lines to the metal lines
 

88st165

New member
i know they have oil cooler rubber hose... there isnt that much pressure going through that is there? im thinking of maybe cutting the "s" bend out and flaring the ends then putting the rubber hose to that? :shrug: i dont know, thats basically whats holding me back from completing this, oh and i cannot find bolts long enough to use as the studs in grade 8 and i also cannot find longer studs period. i searched the internet and couldnt find crap.
 

saved_1992

New member
what size do you need?

have you tried getting a metric threaded rod? they come in 1-3 meters in length and in different metals from stainless steel to grade 4.6
 

d1alltrac

Active member
havent checked this thread in a while :doh:

when i bent the line i eyeballed it like mike to start off, after that i put the whole manifold/turbo assembly on to see how far off i was...then i used a screwdriver and stuck it through the screw holes and used it to line them up, being very careful not to kink it of course. it was a huge PITA to get the first bolt in (i used a longer one to make it easier) but once the first bolt was in it was pretty straight forward.

have you checked local hardware stores for the studs? a couple weeks after i did this i was at ACE hardware looking for something and i noticed they had "exhaust manifold studs" in lots of lengths and threads, it pissed me off and i didnt buy any :p
 
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