Engine oil?

smog7

Moderator
Just wondering but when you switch oils, do you have to get new gaskets? also which oil should i be running in my car,.... 141xxx miles completely stock.
 

db

Active member
New gaskets? No. However, if you put in synthetic oil in a high mileage car, you might need new gaskets if the old ones don't properly seal.

Run what you want.

I recommend 10w30 Mobil 1 (synthetic). Use 5w30 when its freezing out.
 

Gary ST165

New member
use ester based fully synthetic oil.

the important word to look for is "ester" on the packaging. ignore catchphrases like "synthetic base" and "race formula" because its pure marketing b*ll*cks (to put it mildly)

i would only ever use millers CWS 10w-50 and silkolene pro S 10w-50 oils for UK climate. They are ester based and can handle the severe punishment oils get in a turbo charged engine. the 3sgte gets hot + the turbo glows red/orange hot under normal use.


If you cannot afford to protect your engine by investing in a fully synth oil, then change your oil more frequently than you think you need to....


P.S the 1st mod for our cars: invest in an oil filter relocation kit, thermostat and aftermarket engine oil cooler.... you have been warned :doh:
 

toayoztan

Moderator
That kit (and other kits out there), how much do they drop the oil psi (if they drop the oil pressure at all)?

Bryan
 

Mafix

New member
those shouldn't drop oil pressure at all. that is regulateed by the pump. although they do add to the total amout of oil in your car.
 

___Scott___

Active member
The oil filter is downstream from the pump. The filter could present a huge restriction and the pump wouldn't know it and happily bleed off excess pressure. Meanwhile the engine could be starving for oil.

I'm not saying that relocating the filter is bad, but I think it's a good idea to do your homework on the kits' reputation before you buy.

I vaguely remember reading negative comments about those cheap eBay relocation kits, but don't trust my fuzzy memory.
 

Gary ST165

New member
alltrac7":3re3bf7p said:
why do you recommend those being the first mods?

the 3sgte gets hot + the turbo glows red/orange hot under normal use.

i believe it is important to safeguard your initial investment. The bearings and pistons do wear eventually. More so when running hot.

On the 165 and 185 the oil filter sits very close to major heat sources (especially if de-catted) and cooks further :twisted:

Oil, be it Fully synthetic or other, is much more effective prolonging engine life at operating temperatures of 80+ celcius.
Engine oil temperatures of 100>110+ celcius have been reported on stock set up ::cry:

Every single 3sgte / cylinderhead i have seen stripped down, showed signs of cooking the oil.
 

muneo

New member
Use 5w30 when its freezing out.

HAHA. He's in southern California. Dont ever use 5w-30 in this motor with that many miles in CA (unless you live in the Tahoe or Mammoth or something during the winter. It'll drink all 4 quarts in about 2500 miles
 

db

Active member
muneo":16dfk1nr said:
Use 5w30 when its freezing out.

HAHA. He's in southern California. Dont ever use 5w-30 in this motor with that many miles in CA (unless you live in the Tahoe or Mammoth or something during the winter. It'll drink all 4 quarts in about 2500 miles

Hey, I have to make sure all bases are covered. However, 5w30 shouldn't be consumed any faster than 10w30 would. I used 5w30 up in North Dakota, when the temps dropped below 32F and stayed there for months. Never had an issue.
 

muneo

New member
You mean, temps go below 32 degrees? Sorry, born and raised in LA, I've never experience such a thing :p

I wasnt disagreeing with you about the cold temps/5w-30 part, I was just saying that, in my LA experience, I went through much less oil using 10w vs. 5w. I also noticed that my car ran crappy or crappier using 5w. Must be my rings and massive blow by. I do have 180K on the car.
 

db

Active member
muneo":3adv4frs said:
You mean, temps go below 32 degrees? Sorry, born and raised in LA, I've never experience such a thing :p

I wasnt disagreeing with you about the cold temps/5w-30 part, I was just saying that, in my LA experience, I went through much less oil using 10w vs. 5w. I also noticed that my car ran crappy or crappier using 5w. Must be my rings and massive blow by. I do have 180K on the car.

Heh. I had mentioned it based on actually freezing temperatures. Not temps that feel cold to people who live in warmer than average climates (like you and me now).

North Dakota has a stint during winter where the temp drops to -20 or more F as a low, and has -10F as a high. Lasts a few weeks a year. Even the 5w30 feels like molasses on startup. Once warmed up 5w30 and 10w30 should work identically. Makes me wonder if your crappy running experience was caused by something else or if you were using a crappy oil brand.

My car has 205,000 and some odd miles. :D My car definitely works as a high mileage test mule.
 

muneo

New member
Makes me wonder if your crappy running experience was caused by something else or if you were using a crappy oil brand.

There are so many possible culprits that its would take me a while to hunt down. All I'm certain of is that my car runs really crappy with 5w and/or if I have more than 2500 miles on my oil. Even after 1500, my oil is pretty dark by then...yeah, I got problems...

I found my car likes Mobil High Mileage 7000 10w-30
 
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