Replacing turbo

I just tightened my tensioner yesterday, on the ST165 it's a 10mm bolt, and the threads are normal threads, but you have to think of the belt tensioner wheel in relation to the the head of the bolt.

The bolt doesn't move, so to loosen the tensioner you need to move the tensioner toward the head of the bolt, that means you tighten the bolt turning it clockwise.

It's extremely counter intuitive, but I've done it probably 20 times.

Cool, wonder why Toyota changed it for the ST185? Eh who knows, crazy Toyota :doh: :lol:

sounds to me like he was saying that there is no diffence between the 165 and the 185.......maybe i read it wrong

Oh I see, saying the thread itself is not left hand, but in order to loosen the assembly you turn counter-clockwise due to travel of the tensioner on the bolt. Gotcha

Update:

Finaly got the whole assembly off:

exhuast manifold, turbo, o2 housing, cat

man was that thing a paint to manuever it out whlie trying to hold up all the weight. swapped turbos out and while i had the cat out i went ahead and removed it by hammer and chisel method.

assembled everythign again and reinstalled. began to work on the problem with the belt tensior being stripped. took it off and it cleaned it really well. seems that it was simply rusted along the track it slides along not stripped. then it got dark

things i have left to do:
1put belt on around alternator
2when removing the turbo one line(some type of air line) that was pluggedi into a nipple snaped while removing it. its almsot finsiehd goin thru the jb weld dry period. so i have to install that
3. install elbow that goes from intake to turbo
4.install top mount
5. install radiator

went ahead and did an oil change and obviously coolant flush whle everythign was apart and i was down there. also got the whole cat knocked out. feel like i've almost got somethign accomllished

**on a side not. seems like toyotas exhuast flow design is really crappy. the exhuast manifold looks lik it flows NOTHING as well as the o2 housing. by looking I haven't even found an aftemarket exhuast manifold

**on a side not. seems like toyotas exhuast flow design is really crappy. the exhuast manifold looks lik it flows NOTHING as well as the o2 housing. by looking I haven't even found an aftemarket exhuast manifold

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Personally I think your going to find yourself eating those words, many people have used the stock ex.mani to put out very impressive hp numbers. I dont have them off the top of my head, do some searching on the site its been discussed.

Also Aussie sells a rather pretty looking ex.mani but its for the ct26 and would yield little results over the stock cast piece.

maybe im wrong.

defintetly have been before. just appears as thought it doesn't have that good of flow

i just can't wait to finalize the instalation and drive the car tonight. its going to be great not to smoke everyone out at stoplights. Also with all that shaft play this thing is going to have to boost better and feel faster.

Alright,

Just got home, bad news

found the piece that needed to be jb welded seemd to have some jb weld creep thru and is welded closed. It is a small vacccum line that goes into a niple on the right side of the turbo. To reference what i'm talking about when the turbo i on the car there are 3 holes on the rear, right side(compressor). The bottom two have a bracket and I belive part of the wastegate screwing into them. The top one has a niplle screwed into it with a vaccum hose coming off of it going back towards the firewal but I can't tell exactly where too.

Does anyone know what this is? I'm so anxious to put it back together tonight but would hate to ruin anything.

Mark

Are you talking about a nipple screwed into the compressor housing? That one goes to the wastegate, and then the other one from the wastegate goes to the T-VSV I believe. If that's not the one you're talking about, any way to get a pic of it?

yup, that the one that i'm reffering to.

got it sitting beside me with a jb weld again. this one is much cleaner. in ingeniously stuffed one end ito a hot dog bun so it would sit better. much better idea than havin a toothpick insid apparently. anyways worked on the car for a lil bit more, went ahead and put the alt belt back on(which went without a hitch suprisingly) as well as dropped radiaotr back in hooking it up in all the places that won't interfere with that hose.

parts left sitting in my room to insall:

1.hose that goes to waste
2.elbow that goes from intake to compressor housing
3.top mount intercooler

sounds like around a 15 minute install when i get off work tommorw. i can't wait. i went ahead and orderd a Greddy Type S Bov and flange that should be here Thursday as well b/c I don't want to risk any compressor surge with these ceramic blades.

dangit, now i'm just gettin pissed off. the jbweld dint hold agian today.

looks like i'm going to have to replace the nipple. caleld toyota parts bu they are closed for the day already. i have a feeling i'm not going to be able to buy just this part anyway.

anyone know where i can get it from

it is a nipple that screws into the top right side of the turbos compressor housing for the purpose of a vaccum hose to connect on to(which presumably goes to the wastegate).

here are some pics:

Well..hang on a sec.. I have a spare turbo sitting around with a snapped shaft, was going to sell it to a local guy (he doesn't need the turbo, just a core trade), if I can get that nipple out undamaged, paypal me shipping cost and I can send it to you, he won't need it for what he's doing with it. Of course, then you'd have to wait for it to get through the mail, so up to you, you could always pay for the fastest shipping, I can't see it being terribly expensive for that tiny part, but I don't ship much, so couldn't say. Anyway, if you're interested, shoot me an email to vishdav@yahoo.com

thanks a lot for your help t-spoon

fortunatly i was able to get some type of nipple that worked perfectly from lowes

so we get evertying all back together and go to drive. i drie about 100 yards and hit a 7 pounds of boot in 3rd gear.

bshhhhh

sounded like my bov blew off (from the somehwhat jerryrigged way I have it ont there-its done it before but only at like 11 pounds on odl turbo) but the car doesn't stall. we pull over. nothing in the engine bay looks disconected or antying. granted its dark but can't find anythign

start to drive again and car runs perfectly fine but makes NO boost. serioslyu won't go past 0 pounds

drove it home and called it a night

only thing I can think of is that somehow my wastegate must be completly open or the turbo seized up. any suggestions. tomorw I intend to check all lines and pull the intake from the turbo to the air filter off to make sure the turbo didn't siezed

all help is appreciated

Nah, I'm betting it's something simple, I wouldn't worry about it until you can see. Check all the piping and all of the manifold and turbo connections. When my first MR2 got rearended, the shock worked several nuts/studs loose and ended up with little gaps between the turbo and manifold, wouldn't boost even a single PSI. Like you said, could also be something with the wastegate, stuck open or something. I would really doubt the turbo is seized already, but you never know. You should be able to spot the trouble when you get things opened up in the light.

T-spoon":1byebvij said:

Nah, I'm betting it's something simple, I wouldn't worry about it until you can see. Check all the piping and all of the manifold and turbo connections. When my first MR2 got rearended, the shock worked several nuts/studs loose and ended up with little gaps between the turbo and manifold, wouldn't boost even a single PSI. Like you said, could also be something with the wastegate, stuck open or something. I would really doubt the turbo is seized already, but you never know. You should be able to spot the trouble when you get things opened up in the light.

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gosh i hope so. thanks for the encouraging words. seems like it will be something really simple/small for the car to still have driven as well as it did. its just tracking it down......

another disadvantage is i NEVER have any light until sautrday. i dont get off work until there is only 20 min of light left so by the time i get to the car its already dark.

Udate as of this lunch:

took the intake to turbo compressor elbow off to check to see if the turbo has seized up. thankfully no....but.

where the shaft comes thru the compressor blades, there is a nut that tightens down on the compresor blades. this nut had come loose. essentiay it seems like that would make the turbos exhuast side spin spinning the shaft whcih then spins INSIDE th compressor blades. that wold cause it not to boost. unfrotunately, the nut they used isn't a regular hex nut. its completly rounded with straight grooves all in it. (don't really know what kind of tool that would require).

so i tried tightening it by using pliers. another thing is that once it gets tightend up to the compresor blades, you have to hold them to keep from spinning(i'm concerned about breaking due to them being ceramic). i tightend it about as tight as i could and then decided to go driving.

crank it up and rev it up a couple of times to get it warm.
WHITE smoke. the reason for changing the turbo out in the first place!
granted the used turbo I bought did have a little bit of shaft play, but whil driving it last night before the prolbem i had no white smoke. so i continute to drive to see if it will boost. nop, no boost.

i dint get a chance to check to see if the nut was loose again but here is what i'm assuming are the problems

Problem of turbo not spoolling:
nut probaly came loose again and shaft is spinning freely inside compressor blade

Problem of white smoke
1. this turbo is blown as well, whether before i bought it or last night somethign happend blowing it
2. head gasket is bad and it did not blow white smoke last night b/c i had flushed the coolant system and not enough pressure had built up to push coolant out yet, only the excess air

I intend to do another compression check tongiht but last one i did pulled good numbers. Hopefullyy compression reads good numbers again and that would pretty much isolate it to the turbo(at which point I can try and get money back for this one and order the CT27 with my core.)

Any suggestons would be greatly appreciated.

**on a side not, my friend said that in his experience of f-bodies(transams/camaros/firebirds) have coolant seals somewhere in the intake. does our car have any? none that I know of but wanted to confirm.

Ah, oopse, I misread before, I thought it was a new or newly rebuilt turbo, didn't know it was used. Odd that nut was loose, never heard of that happening. They usually slice off a bit of the nut on a particular side for balancing reasons I think, so I'm not sure even if you could get it tight it would be balanced properly anymore. Is your coolant temperature stable? I would expect it to be quite unstable if your headgasket was bad.

the point your brought up about being able to have a balanced turbo i a good one.....

temp of car is stable. the day i bought the car it took an 8 hour drive. next day drove 8 again. it has taken may trips of 2 horus and longer as well. there is never even a noticeable drop in coolant loss.

well that sucks that your turbo doesn't boost. and i've never heard of the nut you are referring to being loose. maybe you just have your vac hoses on wrong or they are leaking somewhere.

gt_turbo":2qgh9vkd said:

well that sucks that your turbo doesn't boost. and i've never heard of the nut you are referring to being loose. maybe you just have your vac hoses on wrong or they are leaking somewhere.

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i have no doubt that that is the reason i'm not making any boost. it makes perfect sense. the shaft is simply spinning inside the copmressor blades. without the compresosr blades spinning you won't make any boost.

my concern is why i'm blowing white smoke. the turbo made boost for the first 30 secs i drove the car. up to 7 psi fine, but then it mad the loud bshhhhhh noise and THEN stopped boosting. thats the point when i figured out that nut was loose.