My Budget 300bhp St185

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Postby MrDB » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:35 pm

Never got the printouts sorry. |However i did speak to the operator, (been to the place a lot) and he said all was fine and still a tad rich at the top. As i said i wouldnt go thrapping around all day with it at this boost but the occassional sprint isnt that bad.

Also im now considering an link ecu so i can at least get bigger injectors running to make sure i can drop the duty on them...
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Postby tw2 » Wed Jul 02, 2008 1:48 am

You running 300 hp on 440's and stock FP can mean leaning out and BOOM


Thats a great setup. The stock fuel is supposed to support 270 WHP not BHP which is why this setup works as I guess it is around 250WHP. Near max but probably not boom.
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Postby MrDB » Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:40 am

Thanks, definatly not boom its been fine for quite a while now, i do need to get a 1/4 mile done though...

I remember when i first got a 4 (5yrs ago) 300hp seemed to be a holy grail on a 185 but i see more and more now coming along and doing it cheaply, i guess people learn from other peoples mistakes and we progress.

I am a strong believer that less is more with tuning. I doubt i will ever go over 300whp so this turbo is perfect. Exhaust isnt huge and will cope with that power, intercooler will need updating but i have one coming from a different model which is bigger. With the ECU and bigger injectors i should be there. For the street it will see off almost anything but big money cars so i will be happy.

I see so many people running 500hp turbos on 300hp engines they get the bragging rights but also get all the lag and will perform worse than a smaller turbo....

Build for what you want. Dont go huge intercooler get the size thats suitable for the power you want to get and add little more same for all components. All race cars are designed that way if you build in to much headroom for the future you will suffer until you reach the higher power levels...

I have friend who has a 165 pushing no more than 270 fly hp that is beating many a more powerful car (300 - 400 hp) in a sprint series as he can get more power out of the corners quicker due to his spool time being smaller hes efficient and thats the key....
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Postby MrDB » Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:24 am

Some more updates.

Intercooler
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Not my actual one but same type.
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DIY clear indicators

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Intake temp monitor ( this temp was heatsoak with std top mount )
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DIY rear ARB ( ignore welds it was my first go ever at welding ;) )

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DIY Brake Stopper

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Also update on turbo's possible power output this same turbo on a 185 engine with 205 cams 205 intercooler and powerfc ran 377hp @ fly so its a capable bolt on ;)
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Postby ST185pinjo » Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:43 pm

What is the visual difference between the 4x4 ic and 2wd ic?

looks oke to me. 8)
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Postby MrDB » Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:24 am

Its deeper front to back and the take of pipe for blow off valve is straight not angled..

Ebay usually has a few and you can see the difference easily between 2wd one and 4wd.
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Postby MrDB » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:44 am

As i will be needing better injectors a bit later when i get ecu etc, i will also need to get fuel rail bored out larger to improve flow, so with in keeping with my budget theme i made my own long drill bit and bored a spare rail have. Total cost £21 inc spare rail ;)

Used a normal 7mm drill and a 7mm masonary drill made a jig as follows out of wood.

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Drill bits butt together then i weldeded them together and cleaned up with grinder.

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10 mins later 1 bored fuel rail... Used a short 7mm drill bit to get alligned then swapped to long drill for the rest.

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Need to bung end then pop down to Pirtek to get fuel line fittings for adjustable FPR etc...
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Postby ST185pinjo » Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:12 pm

Nice work man.
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Postby MrDB » Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:07 pm

Thank you kind sir ;)
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Postby tw2 » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:24 pm

Thats a pretty daring procedure, great work. Now you can charge US$70 like ats.
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Postby MrDB » Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:34 am

$70 ATS charge is the reason why i did it DIY. How can they justify that. Especially when they have a jig and just put the rail in and 10 seconds later its drilled and done. Bung the end i.e bolt and copper washer......

If i was confident i could get it right everytime i would be doing these for next to nothing on an exchange basis....

Thought i would post it up though as if someone wanted a go they now have the cheapest option.....
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Postby MrDB » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:25 pm

Well i managed to get a hold of a cosworth sierra 4x4 intercooler for £10 off ebay and fitted it today.

The size diffrence is significant. Its deeper wider and taller. But good news is it fits absolutly perfectly in the space between lights just needs a couple of tabs taking off. Intake temps are now significantly lower and takes a lot longer o build heat.

I even had to re program boost controller..
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Postby Kcman91gts » Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:10 pm

Could you shine some light on that diy clear corner operation you did , i want to try it with both the front and side markers .. and whats the purpose of the break stopper ?
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Postby tw2 » Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:33 pm

It prevents the firewall from flexing when you stamp your foot on the brake. It braces the master cylinder and stops it from moving forwards.
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Postby MrDB » Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:06 am

The process is quiet easy for lights. Heat original set with hair drier, this will loosen the black mastic/glue you then need to pry the lens out.

Get some cardboard and make template for new lens.

I used a strip lighting lens cover and cut it up. I used araldite epoxy glue to stick lens to base and used cloths pegs to hold whilst drying.

I then masked them out and sprayed the edges black.

Job Done
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