Project Add power to make Sith - waiting for new home 8/20

darthripley":2573l4th said:

i ended up buying 5mm ichiba spacers from tworus.com & i had my machine shop mill them down approx. 4mm so they would fit inside the 205 rotor hat ...
so we didn't make them, we just had the machine shop help make them work

i'd send you extras, but i only bought 2 & had them milled down at the machine shop along with the rotors since they charge a minimum $35 setup fee i wanted to get it all done at one time...sorry.

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Oh ok so you did end up going with the ichibas.

Photos of the front brakes mounted?

if you could, please do a full write up on what was modified to make them fit...

sorry i haven't uploaded all the photos yet - sunday was my birthday + been busy too.

i will do my best to do a detailed write-up of how we got them to fit in the next day or so.
joe took some good shots too so i will have those also.
as the pads are bedding in, the brakes are feeling better & better, but we will probably have to re-bleed the fluid after getting them completely bedded in.

Did you sand your pads? My rotors had some gouges in the rotors and it seemed like they just put new pads on bad rotors. I had to sand my pads down to make sure they will bed in good when the time comes.

damn, we didn't do that - didn't even think of it actually.
we may check out the pads & see about doing that - hopefully it isn't too late.

so you can re-use newish pads on brand new rotors simply by sanding the pads? what grit? how much are you supposed to take off?

smog7":2fs6ffay said:

so you can re-use newish pads on brand new rotors simply by sanding the pads? what grit? how much are you supposed to take off?

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It really depends on the condition of the pads. I'd hate to develop hot spots on the rotor, so I started with 180 to even out the big 'mountains' then moved to 300 and up and ended with 1500.

joe checked out the pads & calipers tonite & turns out the awful noise coming from the driver's side front was the caliper itself rubbing on the wheel

the caliper came loose (wasn't torqued enough i guess) and fell down and promptly started rubbing the inside of the wheel.

it wasn't enough to really mess anything up too badly thank goodness, but it was a bit of a bummer just the same.

we got everything torqued down & will take the car out tommorrow for another test drive to bed the brakes in more & make sure everything will be ok.

we're going to meet up with a group of Texas 6th gen celica guys in Austin on Saturday so gotta make sure the car is going to be ok for the trip.

once we get back i'll update with pics + a writeup of the brake install...i'm just too busy to be able to do it all before the meet.

Hi Keri. Looks like things are progressing really well. I'm looking forward to the 205 brake write up.

Have fun at the meet this weekend!

darthripley":15g5jviq said:

joe checked out the pads & calipers tonite & turns out the awful noise coming from the driver's side front was the caliper itself rubbing on the wheel

the caliper came loose (wasn't torqued enough i guess) and fell down and promptly started rubbing the inside of the wheel.

it wasn't enough to really mess anything up too badly thank goodness, but it was a bit of a bummer just the same.

we got everything torqued down & will take the car out tommorrow for another test drive to bed the brakes in more & make sure everything will be ok.

we're going to meet up with a group of Texas 6th gen celica guys in Austin on Saturday so gotta make sure the car is going to be ok for the trip.

once we get back i'll update with pics + a writeup of the brake install...i'm just too busy to be able to do it all before the meet.

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Def get some nylon nuts on there.

I did have some Nylon nuts and good bolts, unfortunately they were the exact size of the bolts.. and if I did that, I wouldn't have been able to move the calipers out another 2mm or so..
So I ended up using some bolts that were smaller than the hole.. but I didn't crank on the bolts.. and thus they came loose.. loose enough to make the whole caliper move down.. part of the caliper was rubbing on the rotor and the caliper was also touching the wheel!!! I had to fix that right away. So, as I said before, they are bolted on VERY well now, and they are not coming off anytime soon.

I did end up sanding the pads just a little.. there was very little if any imperfections about the pads.. but make sure that I sanded everything down again.. it should be better when we go out tonight and see how everything is feelin. We will do a writeup on the setup soon.. with lots of pics.

after bleeding the brakes for the 3rd or 4th time mostly due to having to take the calipers on & off that many times to get them secured on .. the brakes are finally coming into their own.

the brakes were put through their paces this past weekend on some twisty roads around Austin with the guys from 6gc.net

they stopped a million times better than the old brakes even thought about & kept us from rear ending one guy who thought it was a good idea to brake really really hard at the crest of a hill :x

i am working on a detailed step by step write up with pics so i should have it done by this week & will post it in the brake section so everyone can see it who might be interested.

I'm really looking forward to this write up. This will be really good info to have out there.

Glad to here that the meet with the 6g guys went well. I hope you didn't embarass them too bad!

Nitro_Alltrac":bp6xlwf9 said:

Glad to here that the meet with the 6g guys went well. I hope you didn't embarass them too bad!

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we did get to go first in line going back on the twisty road since everyone knew the alltrac was made for that kind of spirited driving 8)

one guy who was behind us - w/a 5sfe i think - was able to stick to us closely in all the twisties.
he was a good driver with a good suspension setup.

i can only think/imagine how Vadar would have handled if we had the GAB struts, JSpeed springs + whiteline rsb.

with an old COMPLETELY stock suspension on Vadar with only a 205 Torsen LSD to help Vadar actually held up pretty well.

the heat was the real enemy with saturday being the hottest day we have had so far this summer - a high of 102*
we got sunburned & overheated & unfortunately so did Vadar on the way home.
the temp gauge got all the way to HOT and we pulled over & the coolant boiled out of the overflow.
we let him cool him cool off & added more premixed toyota red coolant we brought along & the temp gauge moved to the middle again.
Vadar started right up & stayed at middle on the temp the rest of the way home.
everything felt ok after the overheating.
AFR's were normal & boost was ok too.
i'm thinking the thermostat may be toast ... we have been hearing coolant boiling under the rad cap just after spirited drives in the evening when its not so hot.
i don't think the headgasket blew or anything like that ... he had this overheating problem happen when we first got him & were driving him home from Cali ...we turned on the heater & it cooled him off (nowhere to pull over)
so like i said i am leaning towards the thermostat being the culprit.

the 6gc guys were cool to hang out with & they had nothing but love & admiration for Vadar which made both of us feel like proud parents

here's a link to the thread on 6gc.net w/lots of pics (vids to come later):

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?sho ... 60209&st=0

-edit added more info

Watch out with nylock's they will not work around heat. They could get warm and the brakes could heat up the fasteners and they could work loose. Try flexloc, spiralock, splitpin or safety wire. Something that is made for the possible temperatures as rotors radiate a LOT of heat You never can be too safe around brakes.

thanks for the suggestions robolt.

i'm making a list here of what i need to pick up for & install on Vadar for his big fall maintenance/overhaul coming up.
i'm doing this so we can both stay focused on what needs to really get done.
(x) in front of each item = completed/installed on car

* Suspension:
(x) KYB Dust boots + bump stops & OEM Strut perch insulators
(x) GAB struts + JSpeed springs
(x) Front Swaybar poly bushings
(x) SuperPro Front control arm poly bushings
(x) Whiteline RSB + SuperPro poly bushings
(x) Tworus rear endlinks

- install SuperPro rear trailing arm bushings
- buy Eibach camber bolts
- perform an alignment after all suspension work is completed
- high quality JDM 17" rims in a nice width/offset (long term)

* Transmission/Driveline
(x) install 205 tranny
(x) install C/F ACPT driveshaft
(x) install Exedy Hyper Single fw/clutch/pp
(x) install Technafit SS clutch line
(x) Speed Source extended slave push rod
(x) fill 205 tranny with toyota super gear oil
(x) install TRD 2-way clutch type rear LSD & fill with Kaaz fluid

*Engine
(x) install straight intake + Apex-i filter w/adapter
(x) install custom Grounding Kit & re-do some wiring + add better terminals
(x) install ST205 WTA I/C, pump, lines + heat exchanger
(x) install larger 15mm Carbing oil catch tank
(x) install new Innovate Wideband O2 sensor
(x) install HKS Silent Hi-Power cat-back exhaust
(x) install Cusco rubber exhaust hangers
(x) install Wolfkatz Side Feed Fuel Rail w/cleaned stock injectors
(x) HKS Adjustable Cam Gears
(x) install heat protective stuff to insulate underside of hood
(x) install heat protective stuff to wrap bottom & sides of WTA I/C core
(x) install custom c/f "sticker" for WTA I/C
(x) install Spal slim fan on radiator for more room + less weight - mount w/brackets
(x) install all aluminum Ron Davis radiator
(x) install HKS S-Type Rad cap
(x) install Project Kics magnetic oil drain plug
(x) install heat protective wrap on throttle cable
(x) install TRD low-temp thermostat
(x) install new alternator heat shield w/gasket
(x) install new alternator heat shield

- install 165 PS reservoir (in progress)
- install HKS Fan Controller
- order & install 1 step colder iridium spark plugs
- gut TVIS, install ATS Phenolic Spacer, clean intake manifold
- adjust HKS cam gears
- install Denso Supra TT Fuel Pump
- replace o-rings in a/c lines
- recharge a/c soon
- relocate oil filter & install ATA oil cooler w/SS lines & fittings

Parts Left To Order or Find:
- long term for Apexi PFC: MR2 MAT

Ordered, Awaiting Arrival:
- nothing for now

To Do:
(x) properly flush coolant with motor out
(x) replace water pump, gasket & o-rings on the backside
(x) replace HFH #3 on the backside of the motor
(x) replace camshaft seals
(x) replace oil pump seal & gaskets
(x) rebuild dizzy
(x) replace timing belt, #1 & #2 tensioners
(x) replace timing belt cover gaskets & paint covers black
(x) inspect spark plugs
(x) clean ST205 tranny
(x) replace old heater hoses w/new OEM ones
(x) steam clean engine itself
(x) with engine pulled, steam clean engine bay & treat rust on battery tray
(x) sand & polish valve cover + replace squished washers
(x) remove ABS brick + lines & p-valve, replace with non ABS lines & AWD p-valve & 3 way
(x) replace rear main engine seal & gasket
(x) replace a/c fan w/slim spal fan for more room & less weight
(x) replace a/c hose that is leaking
(x) bleed brakes again w/new Motul
(x) bleed clutch w/Motul
(x) refill power steering fluid w/new OEM ATF
(x) replace old rubber vac lines w/silicone hose
(x) weld on Random Technologies hi-flow cat
(x) install new rear hatch struts

- reinstall underbody panels, cut for ST205 WTA pump + lines & RC bumper



*Interior
(x) install new alarm
(x) install 7th Gen Celica Steering wheel + airbag
(x) make C/F Gauge cluster surround + install chrome trim rings
(x) install 7th Gen Celica/IS300 OEM pedal set
(x) install pair Recaro SRD seats w/Bride rails
(x) sort out gauge display cubby under radio

- shampoo carpet, clean floor pan underneath
- locate correct rear floor mats
- locate better looking sunvisors
- locate better looking glove box

*Exterior
(x) paint & install rear mudflaps
(x) paint & install RC front bumper, crash bar + foglights
(x) install GT-Four badge on rear hatch

- full Zymol wax treatment


* Take to a 4 Wheel Dyno after all upgrades/clutch break-in is complete
* Weigh at truck scales for kicks

this list should complete our stage 1 for Vadar.

Stage 2 upgrades after we have a house w/garage:

*Engine
- order GT3071R turbo kit
- order larger injectors Sard 800cc
- order HKS, JUN or Toda 264* intake/exhaust camshafts
- order 2zz shimless buckets
- order JUN head studs
- order JUN knockoff intake manifold (would prefer real JUN manifold)
- install adjustable Sard FPR
- install Denso Supra MKIV Fuel Pump
- install Ingalls engine torque dampner
- go standalone install Apex-i Power FC (gathering parts for Gen 3 electronics switchover)
- possibilty of full build w/forged internals + 5sfe crankshaft for a 2.1L stroker
- install FiberImages CF RC/CS hood with OEM ornaments, hood spoiler & taller squirters

i know i'm forgetting some things, but this is a good start that i can come back & edit for personal reference.

Big list!

A lot of work!

happy tinkering.

^Wow. Really taking Vader to the next level.

EDIT: I'd be interested in a write up on eliminating the AFM... hate that thing.

-Towels

This will be the point when Vader goes from apprentience to Master! :evil:

lol well said Mike

well, i was trying to pick up a KP61 Starlet, but it didn't work out (for the best) and after getting to drive Vadar more, we both realized how much fun he truly is to drive.
he would be more fun with a bit more power - nothing too tits out - just something more "Sith-y" with a "real" turbo.

I'll get a KP61 someday when we have a bigger driveway & a garage, but for now, why not aim towards making Vadar the Dark Lord of the Sith he should be 8) :smokes:

205 front brake pics & write-up coming up below.