Project tw2: next stage
- Thread starter tw2
- Start date
pit_celica
Member
i'm using 540cc injectors at 43.5 psi fuel pressure (adjustable FPR). These injector are the stock ST215 one, they are the same size as ST205 one, but the ST215 are top-feed and high impedance.
Anyway, let me know when you will have your setup tuned.
I'll let you know any update on my side.
Sam
Anyway, let me know when you will have your setup tuned.
I'll let you know any update on my side.
Sam
Finally got around to wrapping the downpipe. I removed it to do so and took the wastegate off. Unfortunately the gaskets for the wastegate and probably the downpipe have disintegrated which really sucks. I have no idea where to find new ones. They were crappy cardboard ones. Does anyone know if tial has better ones?
Anyway here is the downpipe and my horrible looking heatshield.
And here is my cheap fuel rail I picked up off trademe. I haven't tested it yet but it looks pretty good.
Anyway here is the downpipe and my horrible looking heatshield.
And here is my cheap fuel rail I picked up off trademe. I haven't tested it yet but it looks pretty good.
pit_celica
Member
here you go for the gaskets :
http://cgi.ebay.ca/35mm-38mm-Wastegate- ... dZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.ca/T3-T3-T4-TURBO-Inlet ... dZViewItem
Hope to help!
http://cgi.ebay.ca/35mm-38mm-Wastegate- ... dZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.ca/T3-T3-T4-TURBO-Inlet ... dZViewItem
Hope to help!
Thanks. I emailed the seller of the wastegate who told me the cardboard gaskets are pretty much 1 use only and that people usually run without one at all. He recommeded gasket maker which I have already used in the meantime. I will probably order some of those stainless ones from ebay since I am pretty sure I have a huge exhaust leak between my downpipe and turbo now and will not pass my 6 monthly warrant.
Well the turbo kit is holding together 100% fine after who knows how many thousands of km's. Since then I have added stainless steel brake lines- write up here http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31186
And now I am getting stuck into megasquirt so I thought I should probably put updates etc here rather than in the sticky which can be found here http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31249
As of right now I have just ordered a wideband plug and bung in advance as I need to have a hole in my downpipe welded up anyway (it has always been there since it was created due to some very average welding). I decided on a 4" 36-1 trigger wheel to use with my ford EDIS setup and ordered that also. 4" is smaller than the crank pulley so will be done slightly differently to the usual way. The next size 6 3/4 was way too large and I couldn't be bothered finding a 5" or so one which would have worked the best.
I also ordered an 18" long DB37 (standard 37 pin plug used with megasquirt) loom to make an adaptor loom. The other end will be soldered up to an ecu plug I plan to steal from a 1990 camry V6 ecu which has the same plugs as the stock 3sgte loom. This way I will not have to destroy my stock loom and I can do all the wiring well away from the car. Many honda ecu's also have identical plugs.
I have bought everything from DIYautotune. I am going to use 2 sump bolts and an extra block bolt and make a custom bracket for the VR sensor. I want it to be very very strong and reliable. I should have all the brackets made, new hardware installed and loom done within a few weeks.
And now I am getting stuck into megasquirt so I thought I should probably put updates etc here rather than in the sticky which can be found here http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31249
As of right now I have just ordered a wideband plug and bung in advance as I need to have a hole in my downpipe welded up anyway (it has always been there since it was created due to some very average welding). I decided on a 4" 36-1 trigger wheel to use with my ford EDIS setup and ordered that also. 4" is smaller than the crank pulley so will be done slightly differently to the usual way. The next size 6 3/4 was way too large and I couldn't be bothered finding a 5" or so one which would have worked the best.
I also ordered an 18" long DB37 (standard 37 pin plug used with megasquirt) loom to make an adaptor loom. The other end will be soldered up to an ecu plug I plan to steal from a 1990 camry V6 ecu which has the same plugs as the stock 3sgte loom. This way I will not have to destroy my stock loom and I can do all the wiring well away from the car. Many honda ecu's also have identical plugs.
I have bought everything from DIYautotune. I am going to use 2 sump bolts and an extra block bolt and make a custom bracket for the VR sensor. I want it to be very very strong and reliable. I should have all the brackets made, new hardware installed and loom done within a few weeks.
tw2":33fc3bma said:
Very glad to hear the DIY turbo kit is holding up - most likely due to some good planning/thought.
Please keep us updated on the progress of the sensors - it is always a nice treat for me to see the different ingenious ways people come up with for constructing the brackets/setups.
-Terracar
First update- enjoy....
Here is the bracket I made (2mm alluminium) and the space it is going to go into since there is no need for the stock coil and MAP sensor after this.
I used some rubber spacers behind both bolts, I am not sure how resistant to vibration these things are. I should have paid closer attention to the car I removed it from. Next pic is the bracket (3mm alluminium) I am making for the coil pack. I really need to have a look at the engine bay where it came from as far as heat shielding etc goes + I still need the ford ignition leads.
I guess this confirms I have a power steering leak. I cleaned everything a few months ago so I get deep red PS fluid now unlike the brown crap I could never even tell what it was.
I have a couple of ideas as to mount the trigger wheel but I still need to remove the pulley. I suspect I will do something with those two holes.
This is the hard part. I have no idea how to mount a bracket. I would like to use the three blue circled bolts but they are by no means perfect. There is a serious lack of good places under there.
Here is the bracket I made (2mm alluminium) and the space it is going to go into since there is no need for the stock coil and MAP sensor after this.
I used some rubber spacers behind both bolts, I am not sure how resistant to vibration these things are. I should have paid closer attention to the car I removed it from. Next pic is the bracket (3mm alluminium) I am making for the coil pack. I really need to have a look at the engine bay where it came from as far as heat shielding etc goes + I still need the ford ignition leads.
I guess this confirms I have a power steering leak. I cleaned everything a few months ago so I get deep red PS fluid now unlike the brown crap I could never even tell what it was.
I have a couple of ideas as to mount the trigger wheel but I still need to remove the pulley. I suspect I will do something with those two holes.
This is the hard part. I have no idea how to mount a bracket. I would like to use the three blue circled bolts but they are by no means perfect. There is a serious lack of good places under there.
pit_celica
Member
I will suggest you to do it this way :
http://www.turbomr2.com/MR2/HowTo/TEC3/ ... _small.JPG
Use 2 bolts from the oil pump, lengthen them and build a kind of bracket from there.
TIP : try to build it adjustable in all way, this will be helpful further for fine adjustment. If it's not -35°C outside (damn january cold month here in Quebec), I'll try to get clear pics of my sensor setup.
http://www.turbomr2.com/MR2/HowTo/TEC3/ ... _small.JPG
Use 2 bolts from the oil pump, lengthen them and build a kind of bracket from there.
TIP : try to build it adjustable in all way, this will be helpful further for fine adjustment. If it's not -35°C outside (damn january cold month here in Quebec), I'll try to get clear pics of my sensor setup.
Just received my 1st order from diyautotune. I ordered a wideband bung for my downpipe since I cannot afford a wideband kit at the moment but I really need to take my DP off and fix it up and re-heat wrap it. I ordered a 4" trigger wheel as I wanted to keep the whole package a little smaller and contained when I install it on the car. I want to have all the brackets and hardware installation completed before I order the ecu itself and the rest of the tuning cables, IAT etc. Unfortunately I think my intake manifold plans are going to take over for a while.
I can now start to make my patch loom from the stock engine loom to the DB37 MS plug. Here is the camry ecu I am using for the donor connector for the stock 3sgte loom end.
It looks like a lot of mid-80's to mid 90's ecu's probably have the same plug as the 3sgte. It even had the plug type printed on the top. 1vz is a crappy 2.0L V6. IF ANYONE FINDS A SUITABLE ECU please PM me so I can add it to the megasquirt writeup to increase the number of known donor ecu's that can be used.
I can now start to make my patch loom from the stock engine loom to the DB37 MS plug. Here is the camry ecu I am using for the donor connector for the stock 3sgte loom end.
It looks like a lot of mid-80's to mid 90's ecu's probably have the same plug as the 3sgte. It even had the plug type printed on the top. 1vz is a crappy 2.0L V6. IF ANYONE FINDS A SUITABLE ECU please PM me so I can add it to the megasquirt writeup to increase the number of known donor ecu's that can be used.
This is what I did tonight. This is the remains of the camry V6 ecu with all the pins removed that megasquirt will not use in the stock 3sgte loom.
Looking pretty sparse in there.
Now this is just an attempt, I am not 100% happy with it but short of cutting the plugs off the stock harness and wiring it wire to wire I am not sure what to do. I would have liked to see how others did it but I don't know of anyone who has done it this particular way although I don't doubt there are.
Here is a close up. The wires were wrapped around the pins, thoroughly soldered and then heatshrinked. The three extra wires are the EDIS ignition wires I will run seperate shielded wires for (except pin 24 as this already has shielding as part of the diyautotune loom) and the IAT since obviously this will not be in the AFM anymore.
The gray coiled up wire is going to be a TVIS wire from the stock loom side for when I work out how to operate it using megasquirt in the future.
Looking pretty sparse in there.
Now this is just an attempt, I am not 100% happy with it but short of cutting the plugs off the stock harness and wiring it wire to wire I am not sure what to do. I would have liked to see how others did it but I don't know of anyone who has done it this particular way although I don't doubt there are.
Here is a close up. The wires were wrapped around the pins, thoroughly soldered and then heatshrinked. The three extra wires are the EDIS ignition wires I will run seperate shielded wires for (except pin 24 as this already has shielding as part of the diyautotune loom) and the IAT since obviously this will not be in the AFM anymore.
The gray coiled up wire is going to be a TVIS wire from the stock loom side for when I work out how to operate it using megasquirt in the future.
Thanks and cheers for your offer earlier but I think I will get a 3.57 board just because it is already set up for everything and I don't trust my soldering/electronic skills for making add-on's; plus diyautotune said they would give a warrantee on it when using the stock PWM valve.
I am really looking forward to getting this under way. The stock ecu is so bad when the car is cold I might as well be driving an ice cream truck for the 1st 3km each morning.
I am really looking forward to getting this under way. The stock ecu is so bad when the car is cold I might as well be driving an ice cream truck for the 1st 3km each morning.