Head Removal In Car Write Up

All of the information you need in one place.

Postby bluemonkey » Fri Nov 07, 2008 2:52 am

Sounds great, I'll have to go browse tomorrow and see what I find. Any tips I should know before I start removing anything?

Should I set the motor to TDC before I remove anything? What did you use to keep the timing belt from jumping while you had the cam gears off? I don't plan on taking off the bottom cover, my idea was to use zip ties to give it tension. I only want to remove as little as possible from the head/timing. I have a timing light and all but I'd rather not open another can of headaches by having to set the timing.
Members don't see the above ad. Register now - it's free!
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby tw2 » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:16 am

I left it a TDC since you will need it there to easily align the cams when you reinstall it all. I counted the number of ribs between the two cam gears. I would mark it with a white out pen and take a good photo if I were you. Then as long as you pull the rear side of the belt taught when you stick it back on, it should all line up.

Just look really carefully both through the writeup and the BGB and make sure you have all the tools you will need before starting and all the replacement seals etc and other parts. Some things you cannot plan for like my intake manifold brace but shouldn't be too hard.

I am happy to answer anything here and PM if you get stuck. I recommend heaps of PB blaster for bolts which look like they will be difficult and lots of patience.
Thomas, JDM 90 185, 06 350z
User avatar
tw2
Established Member
 
Posts: 2909
Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:01 am
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

Postby bluemonkey » Fri Nov 07, 2008 4:14 am

Well the great thing is that my engine was recently rebuilt so breaking nuts loose won't be too bad. I actually broke loose all the bolts on the exhaust manifold to the head and the ones holding the turbo and the DP ones without a breaker bar. The top driver side exhaust manifold to turbo nut was kinda hard but just because of the space.

Where should I keep the tension? I know your supposed to keep the slack near the pulley that you can adjust but does it matter where I keep the tension while I have the cam gear off? Do you by chance know if its the intake or exhaust one that will need to be removed and will I have to remove the cam gear and the cam shaft?

Anything else that is hard to see that will keep me from being able to remove the head? I didn't remove the turbo and then I looked at the BGB and found out about the turbo stay, that's the only thing keeping it from coming off.
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby tw2 » Fri Nov 07, 2008 4:43 am

What are you doing? Is this a headgasket replacement or head rebuild etc? I think you can remove the head without touching the cams or camshafts but you need to be careful when you remove and replace it not to bend valves. Some people say you cannot get the headbolt out closest to the intake cam gear without removing the cam and obviously you have to replace them all unless you are using arp studs.

Do you by chance know if its the intake or exhaust one that will need to be removed

Sorry i am not sure what you mean by this?

As for hidden things, run your hand and look around the whole head, if you see something that bridges the head and block it will not come off. I would take the turbo off. It is hard enough to lift the whole thing out (at least with one person) without having 15kg of iron attached. Keep tension on both sides of the belt.
Thomas, JDM 90 185, 06 350z
User avatar
tw2
Established Member
 
Posts: 2909
Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:01 am
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

Postby bluemonkey » Fri Nov 07, 2008 5:08 am

tw2 wrote:What are you doing? Is this a headgasket replacement or head rebuild etc? I think you can remove the head without touching the cams or camshafts but you need to be careful when you remove and replace it not to bend valves. Some people say you cannot get the headbolt out closest to the intake cam gear without removing the cam and obviously you have to replace them all unless you are using arp studs.


I'm simply replacing the HG and replacing the bolts since my mechanic re-used the old ones so I figure they assisted in the HG leaking.

Do you by chance know if its the intake or exhaust one that will need to be removed

Sorry i am not sure what you mean by this?


You actually answered that, I was asking about that bolt that people have said can't be removed without taking something out, not sure if it was the cam or cam gear, intake or exhaust side.

As for hidden things, run your hand and look around the whole head, if you see something that bridges the head and block it will not come off. I would take the turbo off. It is hard enough to lift the whole thing out (at least with one person) without having 15kg of iron attached. Keep tension on both sides of the belt.


Yeah I figure most of the vacuums should be pretty obvious but just wondering if there are any hidden bolts. I have the BGB that isn't for the All-Trac, its just a regular celica one but it does have diagrams for the 3sgte. I do plan on taking the turbo off. Do you by chance use yahoo instant messenger or aol instant messenger? I'll hit you up this weekend when I give it a go. I work everyday till Tuesday but I'm gonna go ahead and order the gaskets so they'll be ready. If I end up not needingone, I can just return it.
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby tw2 » Fri Nov 07, 2008 5:30 am

I can't think of anything not obvious to remove. As long as the coolant bypass lines etc are taken care of.... the tranny has heaps of hidden bolts but I think the head is relatively straightforward.

Sorry I only use msn and not very often at all.
Thomas, JDM 90 185, 06 350z
User avatar
tw2
Established Member
 
Posts: 2909
Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:01 am
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

Postby bluemonkey » Fri Nov 07, 2008 5:37 am

Alright great, I'll just post in this thread whenever I come to a hiccup. Thanks for all the advice.
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby bluemonkey » Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:03 pm

I got HG and bolts on order, should be in Monday. I found a set with 3, 12 pt. weird sockets. Its 8, 10, and 12mm so I figure one will have to work.

I've heard to use grease on the head bolts but the BGB calls for engine oil, is one better than the other? On the HG, I've heard to use a copper spray, is there any cons to that idea? Any other small details that are often overlooked that should be done with assembling/disassembling the top of the motor? I plan on leaving as much of the head internals intact.
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby bluemonkey » Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:47 am

I've started removing things but I noticed that one of the hoses connecting to the TB at the bottom had coolant inside. Is that normal? I'm looking at the BGB and I can't really see anything clear about it.

I circled where I'm taking about.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby tw2 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:28 am

Yes, it circulates coolant through the TB so it doesn't freeze and maintains a constant temp. Some people remove it. I hope you had drained and removed your radiator first anyway?
Thomas, JDM 90 185, 06 350z
User avatar
tw2
Established Member
 
Posts: 2909
Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:01 am
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

Postby bluemonkey » Thu Nov 13, 2008 3:12 am

I drained it and then I connected everything before and ran it to test something but I haven't drained it again. Thanks for posting, I did see it was a water-bypass valve in the BGB. I'll be back at it tomorrow. I got the strut brace, alt., alt. bracket, TB, a few vacuums on the passenger side (I think I got all of them off on that side) and a few more to go on the right side. I also removed the egr.

Do I need to remove the distributor? Do I need to remove the cam gears to remove the timing belt or can I just adjust the idler pulley to have enough slack to pull it from around the cam gears?
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby tw2 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 3:47 am

Dont need to remove cams or distributor. Might pay to remove distrubutor anyway though to prevent damaging it and you should redo your ignition timing afterwards anyway so it doesn't really matter.
Thomas, JDM 90 185, 06 350z
User avatar
tw2
Established Member
 
Posts: 2909
Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:01 am
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

Postby bluemonkey » Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:51 pm

Are the steps in the BGB pretty good for doing the timing? I've never really messed around with the timing of a motor, only checked it.
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

Postby tw2 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:22 pm

I think so. I can't remember them. Align crank to 0. Align cams looking at notches on the bearing caps under the cam cover. Try to have as much slack on the portion of timing belt toward the front of the car since that is the part which is pulled taught when you pull the pin on the tensioner. Use a 1mm allen key for the tensioner. You can compress it in a hand held 6" clamp.
Thomas, JDM 90 185, 06 350z
User avatar
tw2
Established Member
 
Posts: 2909
Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:01 am
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

Postby bluemonkey » Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:45 pm

Getting the top cover off was a pain, because of that one screw at the bottom closer to the firewall. I have to remove the water oulet or just pull off the hoes/connectors?
bluemonkey
Club Member
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:32 pm
Location: Houston, Tx

PreviousNext

Return to FAQ / Archive

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests