If you REALLY want it to rotate some tire pressure changes should be able to get the car to power off over steer to the point of needing to be careful not to spin it (Which is where I run into problems, I have an unfortunate reputation of spinning out a lot at events but it is fun).
While still learning the car I would run through slaloms by hitting the gas and letting off when I want to turn (big oversteer situation) then mashing it to straighten out the car once it was pointed where I want to go (Understeer to get it going straight again), let off, mash, let off, mash. Not elegant or fast but it was exciting. Do it right and you can get some AWD drift going for a moment, which doesn't get you there faster on pavement really.
I think to get it to rotate in a controlled manner I want to try still letting off the gas or light braking to shift the weight forward but not so abruptly as to get the car sliding.
I've seen the link to that DSM page before too and it is a really good read. I compete against a Talon locally who is very fast and prepared. I think they are a comparable car when setting up for track events at least for driving style.
I'd focus on getting it to stick, even with stock hardware you can get rid of most of that nasty understeer with very slight alignment and tire changes. This season I was thinking of trying stiffer shocks and springs to eliminate the body roll which is making me pickup the rear inside tire or at least have that tire go light and causing me to slide a lot when the outside tire loses traction. I thought I might go ever so slightly more for the camber 2 or 2.5 front, and no more than 1.5 rear this season. Any thoughts?