Project CMS

turbo4wd":2q7dx0gl said:

CMS-GT4":2q7dx0gl said:

I figured I would post my old window sticker so people have an idea of what these things cost back in the day.

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That come's out to a little over $42k in today's dollars..

Its easy to see why there weren't that many Alltracs sold in the US.. People had a hard time justifying paying BMW money for a Celica..

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BMW > Celica

BMW < Celica Alltrac

imo

So the hose got here thursday. I am pretty sure the old hose was shot. I could not even turn the swivel once it was removed. The new hose is on. I de-rusted the filler neck. I am not sure how man coating it has. I had rust and paint on the top layer then a layer of copper then the main metal. Turns out the rust was just on the surface. I got the grime and such off then put two coats of paint on it. I will give it another couple coats tomorrow.

Tomorrow I will deal with another other surface rust and install my battery tray in the hatch, then I can reinstall the tank tomorrow or sunday depending on how long that takes me.

So things are moving quickly, but I a having a hard time choosing a spot to locate the battery. I don't really want to obstruct the wheel well in case I ever run a full sized spare, but I am not crazy about placing it on the driver side since there is already so much weight over there.

I placed mine on the passenger side of the spare tire. It was a tight fit between the hatch plastic and the full-size spare but I got it to fit.

please, post pics on how you did your relocation, what wire gauge you use, where you run the wires, etc... I maybe want to do it soon!

Thanks

Sam

There is a few good write ups on the site for the relocation. If I remember correctly I ran either 1G or 0G wire from the front to back. I did mine over 5 years ago so my memory is a bit rusty. I used elastic straps to hold the battery, but now I am installing a tray to hold it better.

After looking at the car, I would have to say I am pretty lucky as far as rust goes. There is no rust on the body, but of course bolt and stuff have rusted. At least certain ones. The only spot of rust that has started is around a gromet where my wheel well was full of water. I am going to hit it with a grinder and spray it, then bam. No rust. Once I cleaned the gas tank I found that it hardly had any rust spot either, other than the filler neck. Mostly dirt.

ok, thanks, I'll search a lil bit about it!

Sam

Done for the day. Got everything cleaned and painted and installed my battery tray. Tomorrow I plan on put everything back in, then I am hopefully done and leak free.

Pics or ban.

CMS-GT4":3vbatbhd said:

So the hose got here thursday. I am pretty sure the old hose was shot. I could not even turn the swivel once it was removed. The new hose is on.

Click to expand...

I had the same problem with the same exact hose. Good thing there were still some in the toyota warehouse.

Here is the battery tray.
I will redo the cables once I put the interior back in.


I verified the rear spring part number. I have 7kg in the rear. I am going to get 8kg springs for the front and see how I like that setup.

Here is the tank. I only painted the parts rusted. I am glad I did, because I do not want to take it out again. The whole install was smooth except for getting the old hard line to thread into the new fuel hose. That was a pain and took most of my time today.



The fuel tank cover is black again. Looks much better. I did not spend to much time on it because I plan on taking it off and doing some modifications to it once I learn fiber glass. I hate how it slants and I want it to be even all the way across.



The car has sat for a while and I was amazed that it started on the first bump. I think the fuel leak caused a pressure drop and affected the car more than I imaged. My idle was better, and no dips at idle after running hard. The car pulls better and I may not need as low as a final drive as I thought. I think my old 4.2 FD will be enough.

I have been trying to sell my sti rotors on ebay and I keep getting a lot of people interested but no one buys. I may just keep them and get them milled down like others did with the st205 rotors.

So, I can send it off to paint, but I think I need to do one more thing first. I found what looks like rock chips in the wheel well and one of them has started to rust while the other is still silver. I think I need to kill that rust now and coat it rather than wait till after the paint.

So even though its been a lot of work the past few days it has paid off. I have a new cuss word. Every time I get pissed at my car I say evo. Cause sometimes the car makes me feel like I would be better off buying one, but I am glad I have stuck with it. Its only a matter of time now and the car will shortly be to a good stopping point.

Now, what should I coat the rusted spots with once I remove the rust in the wheel wells? [/img]

We use Rust Bullet & it works amazingly well.
www.rustbullet.com

I even have an extra can (several actually - bought too many awhile back) if you would want it for $10 + shipping just let me know.

That's not a bad little tray for the optima. I haven't really been on line recently, but where did you get that from? ebay?

I bought it on ebay about 5 years ago. It was expensive as hell (~100) but it was the only tray I ever saw offered just for the optima at the time. Its very solid though.

I had never put the tray in cause I was always waiting till the fuel pump was to be done, but now after a very long time they are both done.

Went for a long drive today to shake the rust off the rotors. For some reason its always hard to get the rear rotors to stop making noise after it sat a while.

Anyhow, the car runs great. The gearing is much better considering the car has more power. All gears feel decent except for 5th. It is still a little too high. It feels ok when going 60 but still feels a little high compared to 50mph.

I think going to the 4.2 final drive will be good enough. So now I begin project restore. Once the liquid bullet gets here, I will take car of that rusty spot then we can paint. My main focus will be getting the car into top shape again, and when I put the interior back in, I will put the boost controller in.

I went to pull a part today, but it was a bust. The headliner they had was covered in grease. So I will have to keep looking.

I also heard from the painter, he is having health issues in his family so it will put my car on the back burner most likely.

CMS -

How did you get the sending unit back in the tank ( I think that is what it is) - the part right below the battery in your trunk picture? I undid mine to drain the full tank I have had sitting since the clutch went out. When I tried putting it back I cannot seem to get the arm to fit quite right in the tank. Any suggestions, thoughts or tips?

-Terracar

You mean the fuel level sensor sending unit? I did not take it out. I removed the whole tank with the gas still in it.

Went for a drive today. Car runs pretty well. I am thinking about selling my front calipers though to fund some of the restore and then I can worry about brakes again down the road.

I can not do them till summer anyway.
I think I might need to look into rebuilding some stuff. The car has 140k on it, and when I first drive it the brake are not very good. It is almost like it has to build pressure up or something.

I am wondering if my calipers and brake master cylinder could use some rebuilding. They are a bit more spongy than I like. I will not rebuild the calipers since I plan on replacing them down the road but I think a new master cylinder might be in my future plans.

I am also thinking I need to look into a clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder. I changed out the slave when it went out on me years ago, but I think something is up with it again. So I am thinking it is time for the clutch master cylinder.

I guess I will list the front calipers then go from there.

Here are a few pics of ugly.

She may be ugly (as you put it) but I would still tap it.

-Terracar