Circuit Suspension set up

CMS-GT4

Active member
Interesting how the tarmac settings are close. I am actually going to put softer 8kg fronts in. So I will have 8kg in the front and 7kg in the rear. This is an option that is also on some coilovers on evos and dsms.

Since this car gets driven mostly on the street, I have to reduce the front springs because it has put me in some dangerous situations. It also makes the car handle worse when the road condition is not as optimal.
 

lumbercis

Moderator
eric thompson":hafcz015 said:
i was always opposed to using staggered tires on an awd car for driveline sake. unfortunately st165's have to run narrow tires by design unless you are willing to butcher the fenders and use coilovers. good luck and keep us posted!

Why would it make a difference if you run the same sidewall height? You don't even have to get staggered rims, just use a less wide tire in the rear.

If the handling characteristics of our cars are more like FWD, then it makes sense to use a setup similar to a FWD.
 

solarinsocal

New member
Just as long as the rolling circumference is the same it wouldn't really matter. I haven't done it before but I am guessing that getting two different sized tires tthat have the same rolling circumference would be a pain in the butt to do. I don't know how sensitive our VC is to speed differences front to rear. Maybe it doesn't matter as much as I think it does.
 

smog7

Moderator
eric thompson":2it0pk16 said:
http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/suspension.htm

here is a list of spring rates for the tte wrc celicas. notice how stiff the rear is on the st185 tarmac setup.

thank you for that link! i've been looking for that info for some time now..

lots of good info in this thread.

solarinsocal, does papa gushi ever visit the forum??
 

smog7

Moderator
why wouldn't he??? just wondering...
solarinsocal":28zf9580 said:
Again I thought the same but the information is coming from Papa Gushi himself so I figured I'd give it a shot. He has a 165 himself and is running narrow tires as well.
 

solarinsocal

New member
It's a little hard to explain. If you know the Japanese culture it might help a little bit. He wouldn't go out of his way to come onto a forum somewhere to offer assistance. Not that he's not willing to help but he is very busy with his business and racing both his own and his son's. He is definately a nice guy and will go out of his way for the people he knows. He built my motor for me as a favor but he won't do that type of thing for just anyone. It's hard to explain. Sorry. He's the strong, silent type. Hahaha. :) Hope this explains a little bit. If there are specific questions you had in mind, I will go pick his brain sometime.
 

solarinsocal

New member
Update on the alignment. I finally got around to doing the alignment last night after finally replacing the bad wheel bearing. This is what I ended up with.

Front
-2.4 Camber
0.02 Toe

Rear
-1.3 Camber
0.00 Toe

I haven't had it out on the track yet but ran a throuh a canyon and it felt okay. A lot more neutral but I haven't really pushed too hard. I'll have to wait for the track for that. :D
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I hope it works better for you. I remember when Griffin installed his Tein SS. He had some nice tires (a little wider than yours), light wheels and he found a huge an improvement in his handling just by going to a stock alignment.

I think your specs sound good though. What are you using to adjust your rear camber or is that the specs you have from it being lowered.
 

solarinsocal

New member
Actually I was trying to bring back the rear to -.5 but the lack of adjustability in the rear left me at -1.3. I may do something about that but I will have to run with what it is on the track and see how it feels before I spend time and money to modify the rear. I'll let you know what the car is doing at this set up as soon as I run.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
You can do camber bolts for the rear. I am switching to a st205 rear setep and plan on modifying the lower arm to adjust camber.

Here is a pic of a st205 that uses a modified 185 lower arm. The stamped section was cut and a new bar was welded in place.

3103704327_10521cd1d0_o.jpg
 

solarinsocal

New member
Wow, that would be interesting. I wonder what type of tubing he used as it would need to be pretty strong I am guessing. Where does the Heim joint go?
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I am not sure what tubing he used. I know he went with something that had a thicker wall than the 205 arms. I have some st205 ones I was going to cut, and fill a with a slug then thread them for adjustment.
 

solarinsocal

New member
"were"? Did you change your mind or come up with something new? Also, I have been considering using the LS430 Calipers front and rear to upgrade the brakes. Is this anything you've looked at before? I know that you've been searching for an option.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I did not put too much into it. I think you need a larger master cylinder for those calipers though. I think the MC bore might be closer to that of a supra.

I am likely going to sell my 205 calipers. I am thinking wilwoods up front and I think I might be fine with the stock rear for a while.


When you change your camber in the front have you figured out what the average adjustment value of each notch is on the tein camber plates?
 

solarinsocal

New member
I didn't keep an eye on the top markings but I should be able to caliculate it out from looking at the original placement. I probably wouldn't place too much trust into it. I'll let you know when I get out to look at it.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
CMS-GT4":25siqo8l said:
When I would autox, I think I ran 8 clicks from hardest in the front and 10 in the rear. If I remember correctly.

And I didn't. I ran more in the range of 6 clicks in the front and 8-9 in the rear from the hardest setting.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Do you still have your Tein Japanese manual? I am thinking about getting the page with the shock dyno info translated.
 
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