ECU decision

A member of the mr2 forums has a mines ecu for a 93-95 3sgte for sale and I am seriously considering it.

My engine is of that same year (as well as its from an mr2!) and the ecu from what we've learnt is tuned for a stock engine, turbo and injectors with minor mods like intake, exhuast etc.

Since I'm auto-crossing the car and my current engine and ecu are JDM, I would love to take advantage of the higher rev limiter (8000rpm), unlocked high boost a/f maps and best of all, no speed cut! Plus, the ecu looks deceptively stock and as such, I will not be penalized for aftermarket engine management as is my alternative.

Do you all think this is a good buy for $550? Would it help my engine make power over a wider powerband? I am also gonna be changing my piston rings, valve springs (gen3), MHG, mild port and polish to the head, polish and balance the crankshaft and portmatch the ct26 & exhaust manifold.

I'm not big on making crazy power but more focused on building a well-handling, daily driven GT-FOUR.

Thanks for your input.

Do you find yourself topping out 2nd gear currently in your car? The CT26 isn't exactly going to make any power that high in the rev range.

Hey ralph.

For autoX the ct26 is a dog.
you wont need higher rev limit, if your using this turbo.

I have been modifiying the AFM for the last week or so trying to get it right. TRINI style. ja ja ja

Turns out as i thought the leaner AFR helps the boost come on quicker and MUCH much harder. once its starts to climb its almost instantly at max boost.

Im using a blitz tuned ecu which already has leaned out the afr's so my afm tweaking has them even further to the edge. Full boost of 12psi is reading 13 AFRs, anything below boost or maybe less than 4psi is about 16:1 LOL

With the modified fueling the TVIS trasisition point is VERY NOTICEABLE. I have owned or driven about 10 alltracs maybe 25 3sgte powered vechicles and I have never noticed it open until now.
You can feel the engine load decrease and the induction tone complete change when the TVIS opens, then it requires much more throttle input to get it going(all makes sense according to the theory)

When i was running my alltrac, It had the best low end i have seen on a stock turbo car, thats mostly inpart to the timing. I was running 17degrees advace( I DO not recomend LOL) with no detonation.

My advice for the most cost effective solution for you is:

- mines ECU is nice but only if you can do the epprom, my uncle has a guy do it on his skyline ecu in Tnt, i can ask him who it is. I know its not the dyno fella when u go south down by the track.

-extended RPM will do nothing but hurt the engine, and make less power past 5500(with the ct26)

-ct20b will be the best for spool/power making

-intercooler size is critical!

-tune is critical(timing etc)

- GET A CAM GEAR for the exhasut cam.

Id like to help out more, so get me some information on your car, specs mods etc. and some pics.

"Full boost of 12psi is reading 13 AFRs, anything below boost or maybe less than 4psi is about 16:1 LOL"

Whoooow... Thats nothing normal people should do. High speed wot pull and you have burned a piston down.

12.6 is the highest i would go, personally i run spot on 12.

Megasquirt can fit inside a stock ecu and be wired up to the stock loom from the inside, now that would be an unfair advantage in a stock class.

Quark25":1yembco8 said:

"Full boost of 12psi is reading 13 AFRs, anything below boost or maybe less than 4psi is about 16:1 LOL"

Whoooow... Thats nothing normal people should do. High speed wot pull and you have burned a piston down.

12.6 is the highest i would go, personally i run spot on 12.

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13:1 is attainable with a mix of race and pump gas, but yes, your pistons and ring lands would not like it at WOT for long.

But klue is mad-no-ass, as we say here in the islands.

Quark25":2sxfll85 said:

"Full boost of 12psi is reading 13 AFRs, anything below boost or maybe less than 4psi is about 16:1 LOL"

Whoooow... Thats nothing normal people should do. High speed wot pull and you have burned a piston down.

12.6 is the highest i would go, personally i run spot on 12.

Click to expand...

This is doing all these mods on an otherwise stock car, using the stock AFM etc.

I know in theory it shouldnt work, and I know a lot of you would love to throw the book at me. But trust me, it works.

WOT, does not burn a piston in fact it only burns rubber.

Only a moron can blow up a turbo engine with a lean mix, it has alot to do with your timing and boost. remeber this is only 12 psi max.

Its about getting the most out of your set up for the least amount of money

not running an air filter helps too.

masco":2gu12d7o said:

not running an air filter helps too.

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Yes but this is unfortunately not an option when you're going around tight corners, almost sideways and there is a lot of loose gravel on the surface...especially if you're one of those racers who has those vortex funnel things on your fender with a straight intake to your turbo.

tw2":2owxj0ng said:

Megasquirt can fit inside a stock ecu and be wired up to the stock loom from the inside, now that would be an unfair advantage in a stock class.

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Soundls like a proper shot there, they don't call them "Trikkidadians" for no reason...

Brave soul to be discussing rule stretching mods on an open forum Ralph, better hope that you and I don't wind up competing against each other someday... If I were you, I would not be at all suprised if you get protested if you beat anyone with a complex at an event

Flying Bajan":1iwqdtnx said:

tw2":1iwqdtnx said:

Megasquirt can fit inside a stock ecu and be wired up to the stock loom from the inside, now that would be an unfair advantage in a stock class.

Click to expand...

Soundls like a proper shot there, they don't call them "Trikkidadians" for no reason...

Brave soul to be discussing rule stretching mods on an open forum Ralph, better hope that you and I don't wind up competing against each other someday... If I were you, I would not be at all suprised if you get protested if you beat anyone with a complex at an event

Click to expand...

First of all, aren't YOU running a Megasquirt? bahahaha :lol: :lol: :lol:

Secondly, I'm walking the line but not stretching the rules....I would say kudos to anyone who finds a loophole and uses it to their advantage. An ATS Rom tune for eg. is not covered, as our rule book speaks only to piggybacks and standalone EMS.

Third, I wouldn't worry about beating anyone....first of all given the competition in class and secondly because sadly, yes...I'm THAT slow!

Anyway, I think I've almost made up my mind....most likely going for a CT20b and EMS (Microtech).

klue, how exactly are you modifying AFM signal? resistor packs n stuff or just simple spring tension adjustment?

spring tension adjustment.

i would not buy any of the aftermarket ecus. sard, blitz, mines, toms, tte, ect whithout knowing what they are mapped for. which is impossible.

how does the HKS AFR adjust fuel.. ok, it changes the signal from AFM. does it change it for all AFM signal band or the top end? i`d like to lean out WOT, when the O2 sensor is ignored..

BriinumsBo":3ra9i25z said:

klue, how exactly are you modifying AFM signal? resistor packs n stuff or just simple spring tension adjustment?

Click to expand...

if i told you i would have to kill you.
good luck with the spring tension, great way to ruin an afm

Update: got a steel wheeled CT20b but my clutch destroyed itself on me so I'm putting in an ACT Stage1 on the OEM PP and swapping across the CT20. I'll only run it at 10psi or so for now cuz the engine is stock internally and I don't want to blow the motor before the re-build.

Definitely leaning toward either a LINK ecu, Haltech or maybe a Power FC as far as EMS is concerned.

i've been recently hearing of issues with the link ecu. out of your pick there i'd go haltec