What code put ecu in Safe mode?

M

MXP_57

New member
Hi, i have an st165 with a st205 ecu.

I have the following code:

-Code 21 (o2 sensor) because i've unplugged the o2 to run open loop full time and tune it myself with the haltech interceptor. ps: i had issues with the o2 sensor.

-Code 24 (air filter temp sensor) because i don't have it.

-Code 54 (IC pump) because i've got a fmic...

Does anyone knows if those code trigger the safe mode and what other codes do it aswell? (i couldn't find any infos)

Also i found how to get rid of the 54, but is there any solution for 21 and 24?

Cheers!
 
A

AvivB

New member
54 - will not allow you to boost... it will not allow you to rev above 4K RPM; you can get rid of it by connecting the ECU "WIN" pin to ground.
24 - Just connect a small resistor according to the average temperature in your area and get rid of this code too.
21 - There are small circuits that can simulate O2 sensor and can be adjust to the "right", fixed reading you want to simulate so you can rid of this one too.
 
M

MXP_57

New member
Thanks for your help.

For 54 i thought it was much more harder than that after reading "understanding code 54". Have you tried you technique? even without the pump and relays in the car?

For 24 i'll do what you said.

And for 21 is this code putting the ecu into safe mode?
I don't have vsv so i can boost even in safe mode. same for the revs it revs all the way up. But does code 21 and 54 will affect the timing?

Cheers
 
A

AvivB

New member
54 - It works for me... I don't have the IC controller at all and I'm running with totally different pump that runs with its own wires and not from IC system wires.
If you want to know the exact pin number for WIN signal let me know and I'll check it on the schematic later on at home.

24 - If you tell me what temperature you want to simulate, I'll tell you the resistor value you need.

21 - I'm not sure if this code have any affect on the timing... I don't think so, but it does affect the fuel injected.
 
M

MXP_57

New member
On which car are you talking about? st185 grp A?
On the st205 ecu, there is
-MTT (intercooler water pump)
-M+
-M-
-INT (intercooler relay)

For the temp, i guess 30 Celsius degrees is good. It doesn't really make big difference isn't it?

Thanks for that.
 
A

AvivB

New member
MXP_57":3ulevgn9 said:
On which car are you talking about? st185 grp A?
On the st205 ecu, there is
-MTT (intercooler water pump)
-M+
-M-
-INT (intercooler relay)

For the temp, i guess 30 Celsius degrees is good. It doesn't really make big difference isn't it?

Thanks for that.
Click to expand...

My ECU is from ST185RC... just notice you're talking about the ST205 ECU...
Emm... let me check that and get back to you... according to the list you added it seems that in ST205 the IC controller is integrated into the ECU... :(

For the temperature resistor, 2K ohm is for 20 Celsius and 1.3K ohm is for 40 Celsius so you need the closest one you can find in the shop to 1.65K ohm.
 
M

MXP_57

New member
Ok, thanks for the help! I got the temperature code sorted.
end the code 54 using the diagram in "undertanding the code 54" topic.
(with 1 realy, and 2 resistor)

Now i still have the o2 code, but the engine light is not ON so i guess the ecu is not in safe mode anymore.... :D
 
S

saphtrac

New member
Not to high jack. But im having a problem with Code 54. I have a 165 with a 185 engine runing on the 165 ECU. I understand that Intercooler has its own computer behind the glove box. Would it be possible to get a pic of what wire the "WIN" wire is so I can ground it.
 
S

saphtrac

New member
Grounded the Win Pin of the Main ECU to the bolt right next to the ECU. Code didnt go away. Do I need to ground the one that goes to the Intercooler ECU instead. By the way its a 165
 
9

98RACE

New member
Saphtrac did you ever get this fiqured out?

We have a code 54 on one of the ice racers so the guys replace the pump on monday night but the code came back. I belive the guys are going to try to ground the WIN pin tonight but if that doesent work we only have 1 more night to work on the car before the frist race of the year.

It is a 165.

Thanks,
Dave
 
A

AvivB

New member
If you're in a middle of a race, just ground the WIN signal going to the ECU and work on that when you have time...
You don't want to lose the boost in the middle of a race...

Ps. IMO, for race purposes, I would connect the pump to work full time and ground the ground the WIN signal... and then you don't need the IC controller.
 
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