TomsGT4":2bgeuehq said:I'm just about the try the Metal Ready & POR-15 combo.
The instructions on the Metal Ready bottle said to thoroughly rinse with water after applying it and letting it dry for 20 seconds,
which I didn't fully get. So I found this as an fyi.
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/in ... opic=29491
toayoztan":1sn6hmap said:I'm still debating if i should do the undercoat before or after my body/paint job...i'm somewhat opting for afterwards. This may sound illogical, but i'd like to ensure the underside is clean as a whistle while I put everything back on, and I can always maske off areas near the underchassis where I would be coating...
Bryan
TomsGT4":39701wor said:No prob. I'm glad to see others are trying to keep their cars looking good also
toayoztan":39701wor said:I'm still debating if i should do the undercoat before or after my body/paint job...i'm somewhat opting for afterwards. This may sound illogical, but i'd like to ensure the underside is clean as a whistle while I put everything back on, and I can always maske off areas near the underchassis where I would be coating...
Bryan
Little confused. Isn't the cleanest surface (for the underbody) one that is freshly painted & completely cured?
I'd be afraid of spraying the undercoat especially around the engine bay after doing a paint job.
TomsGT4":366emnfb said:Ahh I see. Sure, that makes sense then.
Actually that's what I'm doing right now-- quarter/rocker panels.
It started out as surface rust (at least that's what I thought), and ended up with some pretty good sized holes after blowing it all away with wire wheel.
After thinking it through a little, I don't think I'll use the Metal Ready on the interior of the rocker panel, or up inside the panels, because of the "rinse with water" directions.
I just don't like the idea of spraying water all in there & not be able to get it all dry.
In fact what do you think? Only use the Metal Ready where the bare metal is smooth, where it needs to be etched (for guaranteed adhesion)?
toayoztan":rejtwor0 said:I'll be using Metal Ready for the underside of the chassis and smooth areas. As for areas like the inside of the rocker panels (and maybe inside of rear quarter panel where rear speakers go), I may just use rust converter and the POR15.
I don't like the idea of having to rinse Metal Ready with water, followed by getting it completely dry before applying POR15, for hard to reach areas.
I'll have to look into a good rust converter.
Bryan
toayoztan":rejtwor0 said:Did you order a new rocker panel? I'm curious that, if you did, if you don't mind taking a picture of it? I'm curious about how the rocker panel comes apart around the door jamb area...it looks to be spot welded in a bunch of places, to which I can drill those out and cut off the rocker panel where needed. Then i'll make the same cuts on the new one and weld it into place and grind down the welds to smooth them out.
Bryan
TomsGT4":1mhw43kp said:There are no holes so large that I need a new rocker panel. They're small enough that I can glass over them without too much problem.
Though, I did buy 2 rocker panels for my Corolla for about $100 (but they were for the 4-door sedan, and I own a 2-door SR5 Coupe).
The reason for this is that unfortunately the rocker panel is welded in place from the factory and there are no replacement parts. I believe this is the case with the Celica also. Possibly all 2 door coupes?
Fortunately I found that most Toyota rocker panels are the same for the bottom half (rounded part that meets up with the lip under the car). Happily, that's where cars usually rust out. So I ripped the rocker I bought in half and riveted only the bottom half to the car. Fit perfectly. I even used the sheet metal left over to patch other holes.
I do have a picture of that rocker panel (before it was cut) if you want, I can post it.
toayoztan":2bo1diva said:You mention there is no factory replacement of the rocker panel for 2 door coupes...I think I'm a little confused on what you mean exactly. Toyota has the rocker panel available for the alltrac. however, i noticed that it extends back into behind the rear quarter panel. What I was going to do is drill out all the spot welds on the top (where the carpet "hooks on the lip") and drill out the spot welds on the bottom (the bottom lip area where people inappropriately put a jack), then cut the rocker panel straight through where it meets the rear door jamb area (hope this makes sense). I COULD just try to form the metal myself to patch up that hole, but i'm not sure how much of the rest of the rocker panel is starting to rot or is fragile. I really want to avoid the body shop on this one since A) my little brother is a hell of a welder and B) i'm pretty particular on how well things get done.
toayoztan":2bo1diva said:Yeah could you post up a pic of that rocker panel? If anything, I could just use the new rocker panel and cut out 'plates' from it to replace, if taking out the rocker panel on my alltrac isn't really that feasible.
Thanks for any help!
Bryan