[How to] Remove the ABS from a ST185

timmey

New member
Last question.

I am a bit confused about the proportion valve. When I look this part number ("47150-20140") up on online Toyota OEM parts dealers, I find that this proportion valve is for several models of Celica and Camry, all of which (at least on the results I found) are NOT AWD vehicles. I am unable to find any trace of AWD mentioned with this part number. For instance, when looked up on "https://www.metrotoyotapartsnow.com/oemtoyotaparts.html" it returns these 5 results, all with the same Part Number and price:

Under the "Mechanical Catalog" heading:
1) "Brakes - Hydraulic system - Pressure metering valve. Pressure metering valve, camry, w/o abs, 2wd, 6 cylinder 1991"
2) "Brakes - Hydraulic system - Pressure metering valve. Pressure metering valve, corolla, coupe, w/gts 1991"
3) "Brakes - Hydraulic system - Hydraulic system - Pressure metering valve. Pressure metering valve, camry, w/o anti-lock brakes, 2wd, 6 cylinder 1990"
4) "Brakes - Hydraulic system - Hydraulic system - Pressure metering valve. Pressure metering valve, corolla, coupe, w/gts 1990"

Under the"OEM Catalog" heading:
5) "VALVE ASSY, PROPORTI "

Again, all 5 parts have the same part number and price of "$168.82".

Are you sure this P/N is an AWD Non-ABS Proportion valve? If so, why is it exclusively coming up on 2WD models of Toyotas and has no mention of AWD? As I understand it, the proportion of a 2WD vs an AWD vehicle are worlds apart. Perhaps I am looking at the wrong part? As you see above, it wouldn't be a first :)!

Cheers!

Timmey
 

darthripley

Moderator
Timmey,

At the time I bought my non ABS p-valve that was the correct part number.
I went to several different online toyota parts places & got the same info that you posted above.

However, I went to Lithia Toyota & found this when I looked up 1990 Celica:

Pressure metering valve, celica, w/turbo, w/o abs
90-93 MSRP$287.91 Your Price $225.02

When I looked up a 1990 Camry I found the same info under the 4wd (aka alltrac) & I know for a fact the Alltrac Camry's had no ABS & had the same p-valve as the non ABS ST185's.

As a last resort, you can always carefully remove the p-valve that is on your ABS brick and use that.
Etantshi did this & says that it is indeed the same p-valve as the non ABS one.

And you are correct about 2wd p-valves being different ... the part itself looks identical but inside there is a spring which controls bias & it is different from 2wd to 4wd especially on Celica's that had rear drums vs. rear discs.

I hope all this makes sense & sorry for the part number confusion. When I ordered mine I was told there were only 2 in the US so that may have something to do with part number changes.
You might want to contact ToyotaTodd as he can make sure you get the correct part number as well.

Good luck!
 

timmey

New member
Thanks a lot! I think that makes sense, actually.

I didn't realize they tuned the same part differently for different cars. I guess these sites just don't have them for AWD. I might just try my current one with under 90k on it. Could be worse.

Cheers!

Timmey
 

darthripley

Moderator
^ I think you'll be ok with the one on your brick.
They really went up on that p-valve from when we bought it -- used to be like $160 brand new :doh:

Good luck & if you need any other help feel free to post or hit me up with a PM :)
 

zero06

New member
it can depend on a lot on where you live, for example on snowy roads ABS can be an advantage.

I get alot of snow up here, and abs (even new cars) is a BAD thing FTW
doesnt help on ice either.
just wet roads and having to slam your breaks at extreme OH sh*t moments
im on the fence on deleting mine. im almost 100% sure it saved my car and my life once
 

timmey

New member
Someone just asked me a really good question on celicatech: Will this ABS removal work on a RHD car? I cannot believe I didn't even think of this. :doh:

If I have to get non-ABS, RHD lines from a GT/GTS I think I give up.

Cheers!

Timmey
 

darthripley

Moderator
That didn't even occur to me either Timmey, but I am pretty sure you would need to source the lines from a RHD non-ABS ST18x since the brake booster is on the opposite side of the car vs. LHD.
You'd have to look over on gt4oc & gt4dc.com to find someone breaking a car OR buy a flaring tool and make your own lines.

A quick tip for making your own lines: you can put sand inside the hard lines which will allow you to bend the lines without deforming them, then flare the ends to fit where necessary.
 

Pechin0351

New member
So I looked through this post and some of the other ABS deletes and did not find an answer so hopefully, some one else is having this problem and just not talking about it.
I removed my ABS parts a while ago, but left the idiot light on with an I dont care factor. Well now I started to care, and I removed the ABS computer from behind the rear pass speaker. But my idiot light is still on. I tried pulling the fuse as well, still an idiot light. I made sure that I unplugged the ABS brick when I removed it, yup still not where it used to be. So I am at a bit of a loss... Now is there a step that I missed that involves me resetting my main ECU, does it perhaps keep a memory of that dummy light. I realize it is a separate ECM that controls that light but perhaps the diagnosis systems are linked in that case? Thanks!
 

DudeMan

New member
Has anyone actually deleted all the other ABS components?

Like the sensors on the brakes themselves, wires going to said sensors, wiring inside the cabin etc?

Just seems like a lot of extra junk you might as well get rid of while your at it.. At least in my case with a torn down car, easy access to everything at the moment.
 

darthripley

Moderator
I'd like to but I haven't yet.

If you don't mind, please document everything you removed & where it is to add to the thread for others who may want to do it as well as the engine bay removal.
 

DudeMan

New member
Wouldn't mind at all.

The sensors in the wheel well and their associated wiring doesn't look hard to remove, its the wiring inside the cabin I'm not sure about.

See the loom of wiring going from the driver to passenger side in this picture? This goes to the ABS ECU.

I'm thinking it would be best to cut it at the driver side where it branches out from another loom of wiring, then neatly tuck and tape the wires.

Any problems with that? Would I have to wrap each one individually to avoid shorts?

PB081095.jpg
 

justjoe

New member
DudeMan":3saeinj0 said:
Wouldn't mind at all.
The sensors in the wheel well and their associated wiring doesn't look hard to remove, its the wiring inside the cabin I'm not sure about.

See the loom of wiring going from the driver to passenger side in this picture? This goes to the ABS ECU.

I'm thinking it would be best to cut it at the driver side where it branches out from another loom of wiring, then neatly tuck and tape the wires.

Any problems with that? Would I have to wrap each one individually to avoid shorts?
Here is what you have to completely remove the ABS:
- Lines: You have aready done that (or are doing)
- Sensors: I know that for the sensors.. you just have the sensors, and then any of the lines going to them.. But how much wire?
- ABS ECU: That is simple enough..
- Wiring: All that Damn wiring..

You have wiring to the Sesors, the ABS ECU, and to the Brick in the engine bay.
If you want to be anal then you would have to go to the point of removing ALL of the ABS wires.. untape the wiring harness everywhere, and then remove those lines, and then retape everything back up. (that sounds like a WHOLE lot of work).
Or, just at the different locations, you can go in and cut the related plug(s), and then tape up the wires there so they are not touching anything. That is what we did in the engine bay.. and it helped clean up soo much.
Inside of the passenger compartment, we just tucked the ABS ECU connectors away.
And the sensors.. well, we did not do anything with that.. although may go back and just remove the sensors and clean up any of the left over wires.

So, if you want to cut any wires.. the easiest thing to do is cut the wire.. take some heat shrink, fold the wire over, and then heat-shrink it, and bam, no chance of shorting anything.. or you could just electrical-tape off each wire. It is up to you.
 

DudeMan

New member
Yeah I wouldn't bother unwrapping the whole harness to do it 100%.

Haven't actually started on anything under the hood. I'm planning to get all the parts I need like brake lines, a flare tool, bender, 3 way valve, etc. and do it all in one day.

Like you said, easiest way is to just cut and tape, making sure nothing shorts.

I'll just be removing the main loom pictured above, the sensors and their wiring. Will post pics and info in this thread once its done.

Since I'm making custom lines there will be some instructions on that too.
 

justjoe

New member
This has been posted before, but when you make your own brake lines, fill the lines with Sand, so when you bend, they will not deform. =)
 

tubasteve

New member
i will be stripping back all the wireing to remove all what is NOT needed on the including a/c stuff, and any other b/s, maybe start a thread on just that.

thanks to justjoe's wife it makes me want to involve my soon to be wife to take pictures and help.

let me know what everyone would like to see mainly, and ill focus on what is asked.

ill have a very acurate scale as well and measure in detail whats needed.

-tubasteve
 
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