Megasquirt FAQ, writeup (Updated 30/10/09)

BNZ

New member
It was me fixing it,as i forgot to un-jumper something...don't rememeber exactly now,but if you follow the instalation carefully you wont do the error as i did :)
G1 for me also,check my wiring.Yes the wheel settings are corect
 

MXP_57

New member
i've followed your wiring but i used VRIN.

Do you think switching to the vr1 on the zeil will fix it?

i don't get any rpm reading at all...
 

BNZ

New member
If you want to stay on the V3's VR1 than you need to play with the pots as stated in the manual until you get RPM reading...that was the main motive I've moved to the Zeal's conditioner
Switching to Zeal is a piece of cake,you only need to bring a wire from tachsel to the upper (positive) VR1 terminal unjumping TachSel from VRIn of-course,and to avoid noise problems ground pin 14 of the LM conditioner as posted by me above.
 

MXP_57

New member
So by doing this, it will bypass this whole part of the circuirt no?

VR_IN_V3.GIF


Would have been so good to do that in the first place and skip the assembly...

I'll try later today, thanks a lot for your help.
 

BNZ

New member
That circuit is on the V3 board,and yes you will bypass it !
Simply and run a wire from TacheSel to VR1 on Zeal board (white wire in my latest attached picture) and do not forget to cut the jumper "TachSel - VrIn" :)

P.S. That configuration posted by you was my second option in case Zeal would not clear the noise completely. That's the setup Phill from ExtraEFI uses in his "VAST setup" ecu's he builds,and they also work so ether way is a good option. Take in consideration that this setup has other resistor values and capacitor values as the standard megasquirt resistors,that's why he draw the values in the picture !
 

MXP_57

New member
I still haven't moved the vr to zeil, i'm gonna do it now.

But i'm still not sure about the settings for the trigger wheel. Am using the RX7 setting (posted above), but i think i should use the toyota 24-1 toothed wheel one instead of the 24-2.

I'm getting signal now but it come and goes while cranking. I don't have a stable signal...

Did you set your base timing with a timing light before starting the engine?

Thanks
 

BNZ

New member
Start with a 20 setting under tooth angle and activate the Tach interrupt masking under Noise just to get you started,then you can adjust it. I've did the timing with the light after i got a stable idle using fixed advance.
 

MXP_57

New member
Ok thanks. I almost got a stable signal but then the ms2 disconnected and now i've got D15 and D16 fully ON all the time. And no more communication with the laptop...
:bangshead: :bangshead: :bangshead:

I'm starting to loose patience with this...
 

BNZ

New member
BNZ":21czy10u said:
pit_celica":21czy10u said:
The problem with our IAC valve is that it is normally open. So, even if you have set your PWM at off, the idle valve is open. I suggest you to plug the vaccum line of your IAC. This way, no air will enter by the IAC valve and your idle RPM will be set by the idle screw on the throttle body.

I am also in the process of sorting things out with the stock IAC.

The solution :
Idle air control circuit.jpg
Works great 100% PWM is wide open / 0% is wide shut.
Use :
IAC_Close - Harness ISC1
IAC_Open - Harness ISC2
IAC_In - MS Fidle
 

MXP_57

New member
BNZ> Do you have any composite logs of your clean signal to see what it should look like?

I'm trying to get a clean signal.

Cheers
 

BNZ

New member
Nope. Something is not working with the "save log to file" (works once than it does not save anymore) and i can't capture them so i did not bother :shrug:
 

MXP_57

New member
Would you mind sending me your msq file? I want to double check all my settings, there must be some mistakes.

If you could email me at mxp.5700 at gmail.com it would be great.

Thank you.
 

MXP_57

New member
I found out why it wouldn't start.

I had the Dwell % vs battery voltage table set to 20% all the way.... :crazy:

Basically trying to start with 20% of spark... even lower with the voltage dropping.
 

coyoteboy

New member
That AEM ignition map is VASTLY more advanced than my map. I'll have to double check my base timing but at the 100kpa load sites it's got more than 10-15 degrees extra advance in there, and I found it knocking with just 1 or 2 degrees extra on 99 RON (UK) fuel. Quite interesting.
 

coyoteboy

New member
My right hand upper 3rd hasn't been touched much but the middle third and lower half are fairly well covered and used with a couple of thousand miles of driving.

Statically (tuned on a long hill at steady state), the 100kpa+ bins can take more advance, but during acceleration these higher values seem to initiate knock. BIG knock. Knock I can hear through the bulkhead over the unfiltered intake noise.
 

Attachments

  • meign.jpg
    meign.jpg
    68.1 KB · Views: 3,662

coyoteboy

New member
No prob, if anything it's a bit conservative but I do want to re-check my base timing to be fair. Good profile though, really improves the drivability of the car.
 

coyoteboy

New member
Some more info that should help anyone attempting to tune their MS - here are some datalogs I took. I did this by running the megasquirt and LC-1 as a datalogger over the top of the stock UK ATA ECU. The CLT values are a smidge out, the MAT is also not quite right, but not far off (5-10 degrees). Throttle, MAP, AFR (LC1 set in default 0-5v, 7.X to 22.X AFR). Engine had a boost controller but no other fueling/ecu mods so should be as-stock bar the pressures reached.

As you can see the stock ECU sits in closed loop 14.7:1 for a very large percentage of its life, even at 130kpa and sometimes 150kpa part throttle. You can see it hit 8.8:1 at times with WOT though :)

I've no logs of advance as I've nothing to measure it with while driving.

I've two more logs coming in the next post.
 

Attachments

  • s1.xls
    215.6 KB · Views: 177
  • s2.xls
    49 KB · Views: 175
  • s3.xls
    150.2 KB · Views: 176
Top