Sloppy Shifter

pokemeintheeye

New member
I've got a lot of slop in my shifter. What have you guys done to get rid of all the slop? I just installed all the bushing that Speed Source supplies. Didn't notice any difference at all compared to what it was.

When I have the shifter in gear I'd say there's about an inch of play when I move it side to side. I don't know whats normal on these All-tracs but on my 1 gen Celica there is nearly no play at all.
 

not12listen

New member
i bought the shifter bushing kit from ChicoRaceWorks. the difference was impressive! much tighter, a LOT less slop, cleaner and easier shifting!

there is almost zero excess motion when it get, and even when not in gear, moving through the gears feels solid and accurate.

just fyi - i have used the solid brass shifter bushings in the past.

honestly, i would buy the kit from CRW any day of the week!
 

pokemeintheeye

New member
I looked throughout their website and I couldn't find where they have their bushings forsale. The only thing I could find was pictures of how a good and bad bushing looks like.
 

not12listen

New member
i would strongly recommend contacting Josh directly, either email or call the shop.

if you call, do not call before Noon (Pacific Time). :)

i'll bug him about putting photos up on his site for these bushings.

also, there is a 'needle/roller' bearing that replaces the worn out graphite 'square.' i'll take some photos of what i have done, to give you an idea of where the parts go and how to install them, etc.
 

pokemeintheeye

New member
I found the Toyota part number to that little cube bushing. That would be my next thing to replace. So CRW has an aftermarket upgrade replacement?
 

woot woot

New member
I have the same issue, i installed a c's short shifter and made a world of difference. Almost no slop and much firmer in feel. Would highly recommend it
 

Ironchief

New member
I'm having the same problem with sloppiness but just ordered the speed source bushing kit for my 90 all trac. Has anyone had any experience with these on their car?
 

not12listen

New member
Ironchief":w42cgqsi said:
I'm having the same problem with sloppiness but just ordered the speed source bushing kit for my 90 all trac. Has anyone had any experience with these on their car?

well, honestly it seems a bit odd to order something to resolve a problem, then ask about it...

the speed source shifter does remove the slop, but due to its design (lack of movement) will wear over time and cause the shifter to be a bit tougher to shift between gears overall.
 

not12listen

New member
my apologies for not including this in my latest reply:
my wife's AW11 use to have the Speed Source solid brass shifter bushings.

after a fair amount of phone yapping with Josh at ChicoRaceWorks, i decided to purchase his kit. i did the install myself and i also daily drive my wife's AW11 currently. so, i've felt the factory bushings (on my AW11), Speed Source solid brass bushings and the CRW spherical shifter bushings.

the factory bushings have the easiest gear engagement, but also have the most amount of slop and (marginally) the longest shifter throw.
the Speed Source brass bushings have the toughest engagement, solid engagement and near identical shifter throw compared to the CRW bushings.
the CRW bushings have smooth engagement, solid engagement and near identical shifter throw to the SS bushings.

the reason for the engagement being so considerably different between the SS and CRW bushings is very simple (i'll post pix later to help demonstrate the point).

the SS bushings are flat brass. the nature of the shifter assembly is to move in very specific directions, but rare is that motion (on the side of the transmission) at a 100% flat axis (ie. there is slight wiggle).

the CRW bushings are multi-part. the outer portion of the bushing is flat, to mate properly with the shift cable. the inner portion of the bushing is like a suspension endlink in that is can pivot - this allows for the bushing to articulate to the 'wiggle' that happens when you select another gear.

below is a generic picture of the type of device that the CRW bushing is - it is NOT a picture of the actual bushing.

tension-strut-rose-joint.jpg


so... i hope this helps to demonstrate the difference between the products that are for sale.

if it were my money, i would buy the CRW bushings over the SS bushings. i am not saying that the SS bushings are bad (they ARE an upgrade over stock worn out bushings), they're just not what i am looking for.

----

oh yeah. i also bought a kit for my wife's AllTrac Camry and my AW11.
 

not12listen

New member
Hotrodhendrix":ckw60303 said:
What is the price on this?

i do believe it is $40 shipped for both shifter bushings.

there is also a needle bearing for $15 that helps with smoother shifting too. below is a photo of a needle bearing.

and yes, i bought and installed this too. it replaces a square of graphite.

needle-bearing.jpg
 

not12listen

New member
Flying Bajan":2h39de9h said:
Forgine my ignorance, but how does that needle bearing replace the cube ?

in mechanical/physical terms, you just remove the cube... grease up the needle bearing and put it where the cube was. then bolt the shifter assembly back together as normal.

in actual usage - the cube rotates on 1 round surface, is sandwiched between 2 flat surfaces - and is constantly on a dry surface.

the needle bearing, is the 'middle man' between the up/down gear selector and the side/side selector - and is a true rotating assembly.

the overall point of it is to make the gear selection smoother.

did i feel a world of difference with the needle bearing? no. did it feel smoother, yes.

to really dumb it down (with no insult implied): dry surface + moving parts = friction.

could you just grease up the cube? sure. will you get the same ease of shifting? i do not believe so.

just to be 100% clear - i upgraded the shifter bushings AND the needle bearing at the same time. but, also, both items (while in the same vicinity) have and serve difference tasks.
 

mister3

New member
we have dialed in what we feel is absolutely the best shifter cable bushings for the MR2s. (this design was originally from Phoenix Power) this spherical bearing design kicks the crap out of every other replacement bushing on the market.

HOW you ask.... well: the OEM shifter cables do not move in a true linear fashion. when you install the brass bushings or roller skate bearings the natural twist of the cable as it is going through the range of motion is lost. the natural twist is dealt with on the OEM bushings in the rubber material they use which allows the flex in a non linear way... as it should be.

the advantages of these shifter bushings are:
1) proper shift cable articulation
2) advantage of having a bearing to reduce wear on moving parts
3) no rubber to wear out
4) no metal to wear out
5) 100% positive shift engagement

CRW spherical shifter bushing kit includes: spherical shifter bushings, washers and OEM retaining clips (BEST!)

CRW shifter bushing kit fits: all Mk1,all Mk2 NA and TURBO, MK3 and many other FWD toyotas (corolla, celica + all-trac, camry, tercel, matrix, scion TC, etc.) **these do not fit the 93-99 celica, 94+ camry or solara**

there are 2 styles of these bushing kits:
CRW standard spherical shifter bushing kit $40 shipped
CRW PTFE lined spherical shifter bushing kit $50 shipped

--> have the OEM square bushing for $18 shipped with bushings or $20 by itself. pic is of worn squares and new square for comparo:
wornshiftleverbushings.jpg


--> **NEW** OEM square replacement roller bearing for $18 combined with something else or $20 by itself. same cost as the square but much less friction and wear involved. just pack this baby with grease and away you go to smoother/precise shifting!
10202010317.jpg


--> also have the solid roller clevis kits to compliment these parts:
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=417544

**these do fit A/T MR2s as well so if anyone wants a single (only takes 1) for the A/T powered MR2 i can accomodate no problem for $20 shipped (standard) or $25 shipped (PTFE lined)

**shipping is to lower 48 states. out of country orders will cost a few dollars extra depending on where located**

**these are finished and in stock ready to ship!!!**

Paypal address payment@chicoraceworks.com

can email me josh@garageCRW.com or text (look at siggy)

**these shifter cable bushings CANNOT cure poorly maintained transmissions, linkages, hydraulics,etc.**
bearingpart.jpg

bushings2.jpg
 

mister3

New member
these are available now!

--> billet aluminim constriuction
--> roller bearings so no more wear!
--> solid so no more clevis dampener wearing, bending or breaking
--> totally eliminates the clutch pedal squeak from worn components
--> slightly longer for that extra bit of adjustment
--> threaded all the way through for maximum adjustment possibilities
--> fits MK1 and MK2 (not sure about MK3)
--> MADE IN THE USA!!!

03232011523.jpg

03232011524.jpg


**FINISHED PRODUCT**
04102011564.jpg

04102011565.jpg


keep in mind the clevis pictured in the first 2 pictures is the prototype and doesn't have the roller bearings installed in the forks yet but you get the idea of what it looks like. **UPDATE** finished kit pictures are the last 2

price for the entire kit as pictured is $45 (includes solid roller clevis, pin, clip,washer and clutch pedal roller bearing)

price is $40 shipped w/o clutch pedal roller bearing for those who have already purchased this part. **whoever got the earlier,thinner roller bearing will get a free upgrade to the wider roller bearing we offer now**

price for just clutch pedal roller bearing $8 shipped


install help here: http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=234491&highlight=clutch+pedal

**shipping is included for all 50 states and PR. international orders please email for additional cost. shipping can be combined with the other products we offer**


can paypal to: payment@chicoraceworks.com

** modification of the clutch pedal is required to fit the clutch pedal roller bearing. drill bit size to use is either 31/64" or 15/32" either will work but the 31/64" is a little more precise
 

mister3

New member
i will be getting good pics of worn components and adding them to my website. these are to show problem areas with the MR2 in regards to poor shift quality, grinding, etc.

for starters i added pics of the shift lever bushing ( ORDER NEW ONE HERE!! ) and a worn one to ogle:
http://www.chicoraceworks.com/gallery/shifting

wornshiftleverbushings.jpg


the shifter linkage bushing can be purchased new through Toyota if worn out bad enough or turned 90 degrees to get the better sides in contact with the "groove". when i turn these or replace them i lubricate (synthetic bearing grease) liberally wherever the bushing is touching something to minimize future wear/friction.


i will be adding more pics when i find some good, worn shifter cables to compare also worn clutch pedals, etc.

for shifter cable bushings there are several options available:
http://www.chicoraceworks.com/gallery/shifting/worn_cable_bushing

1) Speed Source brass shifter bushings
2) CRW spherical bearing (replica of Phoenix Power cable bushings)
ORDER HERE!!
3) roller skate bearings (search!)

for the clutch pedal itself when worn out:

1) buy new pedal from toyota
2) have hole welded up and redrilled
3) drill larger for bearing mod ( http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=234491 )
4) order CRW solid roller clevis kit = end of problem http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=417544

for the clutch master clevis when worn out or broken:

1) buy new from toyota
2) buy new clutch master which comes with new clevis
3) buy CRW solid roller clevis: http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=417544

the clutch master and slave cylinders do need replaced from time to time and can be worn out and not leak (they do it internally). best solution is to buy and replace both at same time and not rebuild them. they don't cost much... rebuilds generally don't last long or are done incorrectly. so buying new makes the job done right the first time.

bleeding the clutch system properly is another issue most folks have. i use the mity vac and suck the fluid through the entire system and end up with a nice, stiff pedal every time. there are times when it is difficult to bleed with the mity vac but sometimes pumping the clutch pedal manually a few times (slowly) will help jump start it.

as for trans fluid my personal recommendation is as follows:

S54 (NA trans) *ALL* redline shockproof superlightweight -- can get away with lightweight shockproof also

E153 (turbo trans) *open diff, OEM LSD or Quaife LSD* redline shockproof lightweight or can use heavy weight shockproof in warmer climates but i prefer the lightweight.

E153 (turbo trans) *clutch style LSD IE: Kaaz, TRD, cusco, etc)* standard non synthetic 75/90 (GL4 or GL5) gear oil with friction modifier AKA LSD additive ** have heard of someone using the redline shockproof lightweight with the ford LSD additive and having no chattering issues**

as far as other trans fluid recommendations you can search for "transmission fluid" and see what I and others have to say about various brands... just i recommend what i have used for 10+ years with no problems and offers buttery smooth shifting.
 

mister3

New member
now all of the above posts were aimed for the MR2 owners but the same parts/issues apply to the celica/all-trac/camry/etc. which run shifter cables and a S or E series transmission.. in some cases (for certain parts) C series as well.
 
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