Paint advice

So, when spring hits I plan on painting one of my cars(Celica Alltrac). I am new to painting and I want to use a paint that may not be fancy, but will look good. My question is what type should I get? (Acrylic, Urethane, laquer, enamel)

When looking at summit and my local paint shop I see alot of different options and blends and not really sure which I should go for.

I was looking at this type of paint:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SHW-BSP209/
Thier website makes it seem like you can have them mix the color you want also.

Also, how much paint for color do you normally need?

Thanks

Looking back I would have had a MUCH easier time if I had gone with a single stage. I ended up going bcc (base coat clear coat) to get the satin look along with the metal flake and pearl.

Are you looking for a color change or stockish color so you dont have to do door jams and engine bay?

A gallon will do the whole car.
Edit: Go with urethane for best results
I purchased most of my supplies from TCPglobal. They carry a large line products and the prices are pretty good. Duplicolor paint has low reviews and is a laquor.

I agree, go with Urethane. I believe acrylic is tough stuff, but takes a bit more skill to apply smoothly (that's how it is for powder coating anyway).

Most of it will pay off in the prep work too, so don't skimp on that.

Bryan

I plan on spending alot of time on prep work since there is no rush for me to get it done.

This is a full on color change. DSM'ish with the black roof and a burnt orange body. Current idea.

I plan on removing as much as possible and painting that way.

Tips on a color change.

1) paint door jams, under hood, engine bay, inside sunroof etc first
2) Remove EVERYTHING. Side windows. All moldings around all windows should be removed. (will need to replace front and rear glass moldings), Remove sunroof for access to that area which is a great time to restore it and redirect the drains.
3) Do not skimp on any body work. Try to pull as many dents as possible before you use any body filler. Block sand, primer, block sand, primer, block sand etc until its 100% smooth. Give the bondo time to set before you paint.

Youtube helps alot with this but during the whole project just remember to take as much time is required and some. Prep work is 95% of the battle. Once your ready to spray you may want to pay a shop for that with a booth. If not I would find a buddy that paints on a regular bases. If not practice on test panels and get used to the guns flow patterns with the same paint you will be using. Single stage urethanes makes all this much easier.

All the items needed to correctly do any body work/prep work does add up fast. Just make sure to take that into account when budgeting for it.

~James

Thanks for that input. I am looking forward to doing this. I have 2 cars I want to paint right now. If I get fluent with it enough, I will do my DD as well.

I also plan on getting a spare fender for practice, or hood, to get better at it.

Also, does anyone know the difference between Urethane and Acrylic urethane?

i recently painted my celica with duplicolor paint(forest green pearl) i bought these in spray cans. body work must be perfect or it will show after you have painted it. also depends if you are painting single stage or two stage paint. single stage usually fade being exposed to weather and time. single stage usually will have to maintain(wax.. polish.. buff.. etc.) 2 stage paints are less maintence if done with right materials. i tried using clear from rustoleum (can) and they do not last being exposed to weather. i learned the hard way so now i have to paint again this time with montana crystal clear urethane clear on top. i already tried this clear on my fenders and has held up pretty well. if you want a mirror finish you can always wetsand when everything has cured. wet sand away orange peel working from 800-1000-1500-2000. the finer paper you use, the least scratches you will have on your finish.