polyurethane bushing drawbacks

turbo4wd

Moderator
___Scott___":1fwyblw6 said:
I should also clarify that I did replace the spherical bearings when I put in the rest of the poly bushings. In fact, I'm the guy who pioneered the replacement of those spherical bearings. Prior to my write-up here, people were replacing the whole carrier assembly in order to get those spherical bearings.

So, yeah, I'm not advocating putting poly in place of those spherical bearings, only in place of the OEM rubber bushings.

Scott, your writeup showing that it was possible to "press" out the bearings with the puller was great.. Anyone can go to a local Autozone, rent one of these badboys and switch out all of their bushings..

And Bill, when you place an order with Mario, it'll take about 2 weeks to receive since they're shipping from Austria.

Once you get the subframe down, a screwdriver and a 3lb sledge is all it took to take all the bushings out.. Might want to think about giving the entire assembly a good degrease/wash and then spraying it with an anti-rust enamel.. like por-15 or plasti-kote.
 

gpmarzan

New member
Will I need to take out all the bolts that connects the control/trailing arms to the hub to have access to the spherical bearings? I tried just taking out the bolt on the control arm #2 and tried lifting up the control arm but a bolt on the back of the hub is preventing it to lift all the way. I would really want to replace 1 of the the four spherical bushings before my trip back to nj w/out having to take the other ones apart- if possible. Any suggestions?
 

___Scott___

Active member
In this pic:
SphericalBearingRemoval.jpg


notice that the rear arm is between the puller and caliper, the trailing arm is not shown but is just hanging, while the front arm is still attached in its normal position.

That worked on both sides for the rear spherical bearing. I didn't get pics of the front bearing and I don't remember specifically how I did it but I do know that I didn't remove the arms completely.

It's quite likely that I used a prybar to help wedge the arm up out of the way.
01654.gif
 

gpmarzan

New member
I actually just got done replace one of the rear spherical bearing about an hr ago. Took about 2-3hrs of actual work time to get it done. The hardest part was putting the new one back in. I did not have to take anything else off besides the wheel and that one bolt for the bearing in case anyone is wondering.
 

aus jd 2703

New member
ok bringing this back from the dead cause well i can :D.
i currently want to replace every bushing in my car starting with suspension then diff finally engine mounts now i get the logic behing using stock sphericals for arm links 1 and 2 in the rear but here is my question, for the rest of the rear and front suspension is poly ideal?
is there any where a complete list of all bushings on the car?
my cars is dd with weekend racing (soon i hope) so far its all tarmac. so my plan is as follow:
stock links 1 and 2 in the rear.
poly front inner and poly sway bar links and mounts.
im going to tein ha's so ignore strut tops etc.
what other bushing do i need? also oem or poly?
cheers guys trying to get my head around whats ideal for my situation
 

Corey

Active member
I'm looking at toyodiy and I can't seem to find the diagrams for the spherical bearings in the knuckle.

Just to confirm - do new knuckles come with the bearings pressed in?

Thanks
 

MWP

New member
Corey Darling":3gin73cf said:
Just to confirm - do new knuckles come with the bearings pressed in?

They do.
Some smart guy worked out that a model of Supra uses the same bearing, and can be supplied separate (it has a part number).
 

RafaCalde

New member
___Scott___":1cqzy1lt said:
In this pic:
SphericalBearingRemoval.jpg


notice that the rear arm is between the puller and caliper, the trailing arm is not shown but is just hanging, while the front arm is still attached in its normal position.

That worked on both sides for the rear spherical bearing. I didn't get pics of the front bearing and I don't remember specifically how I did it but I do know that I didn't remove the arms completely.

It's quite likely that I used a prybar to help wedge the arm up out of the way.
01654.gif


The one SuperPro bushing you have on the rear carrier, which on is that called?
 

aus jd 2703

New member
ok so each side has 6 bushings 3 inner and 3 outter...
which 2 (one side) do you replace with the toyota spherical bushings?
i know the trailing arm can be all poly. so there goes 2 out of the six for each side.

so of the four remaining bushings in the radius arms, which are poly and which are OEM?
would it be safe to assume the hub (out board) bushings are poly and the cradle/inboard are the OEM spherical?
 

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deepsky

Member
Found this thread, and want to replace my bushings with the right stuff. Could someone give me available part numbers, or oem equivalents for the inner bushings for arms 1, 2 and the hub end trailing arm? I did find the outer bushings available for arms 1 and 2 aftermarket at Amazon. I've searched, but never found this particular info for available parts.
 
Resurrecting this old but excellent thread. My son's ST185 has some noise/vibration on it, and the rear tends to wander just a tad. He has a 2nd one that run smoothly, no noise or vibration, and the rear tracks perfectly.

I previously replaced both front and rear sway bar bushings. All new factory original struts all around. Today, I went under the one that has the noise/vibration/wandering, checking the rear sub frame bushings. In my opinion, all 6 of those bushings felt proper (moved when pried up/down, always came back to about center, no noise when moving in any direction). Checked all the suspension are bushings - all felt good & secure.

Those rods that connect to the rear knuckles with the spherical bushings do have a fair amount of movement when pried. They always came back to center. How much movement should those spherical bushings allow? I was only prying with a screwdriver, so I wasn't putting a lot of force on those spherical bushings. Is there one spherical bushing per knuckle, or 2 spherical bushings per knuckle? I thought only one, but when I look at a 1990 Camry All-Trac setup, it shows 2 spherical bushings (Toyota Part No. 42210-14010) per knuckle, or 4 of these per vehicle. If there are really 4 spherical bushings on an ST185, what other arm uses these same spherical bushings at the knuckle? The Rod Arm Assemblies (No. 1) or the Stamped Steel Arm Assemblies (No. 2)?

Also, the rear passenger wheel, when grabbing at 3 & 9 o'clock and trying to rock - the drive side did rock a little (I would say 1/16" side-to-side on the outside of the tire when rocked) and did make a clunking sound when rocking. I couldn't rock it when grabbing at 12 noon & 6 o'clock. The passenger rear also rocked a little when grabbing at 3 & 9 o'clock, but not as much as the driver side. When briefly running the car while lifted, there was no noticeable sound coming from anything in the rear. The driveshaft was recently removed with new universals installed and balanced.

I'm thinking the rear wheels should not move at all when trying to rock the wheels at 3 & 9 o'clock, meaning those rear wheel bearings are worn enough to replace. Thoughts?

And as for the spherical bushings, what is acceptable as far as movement and what is not acceptable? If I shouldn't be able to move them at all, or if any movement when prying is hardly detectable, maybe I should replace these at the same time? They didn't make any sound when I moved them.

What do the experts in this forum have to say?
 
Okay, I'm a bit slow on this I think. The Toyota OEM spherical (roller) bushings for the rear suspension are for the outer bushings (at the knuckles) for the Rear Toe Control Arm No. 1 and the Rear Control Arm No. 2 (hence the need for 4 total spherical bushings), right?

If yes, what is the Toyota OEM Part No. for the Rear Trailing Arm (from the rear knuckle forward to a mount on the body)? Are both ends of this Rear Trailing Arm using the same Toyota Part No. for the bushing? I believe if one can get a new Toyota Rear Trailing Arm for an ST185, the bushing for the body mount end (forward) is already in the rod - what about the bushing that is pressed in the knuckle?

Let's look at it this way:

Rear Trailing (Strut) Arm (48780-20030), if available from Toyota, includes the body side bushing in the rod
- What is the Toyota Part No. for the bushing that goes into the arm on the body side of this Rear Trailing (Strut) Arm, if one just wants to replace the bushing at this end and not the entire arm?
- What is the Toyota Part No. for the bushing that goes into the knuckle for this Rear Trailing (Strut) Arm?
Rear Tow Control Arm No. 1 (48710-20070) is discontinued by Toyota
- The bushing that goes into the knuckle (outside end) of this arm is Toyota Part No. 42210-14010
- What is the Toyota Part No. for the bushing that goes on the inside end of this arm?
Rear Control Arm No. 2 (48730-20050) is discontinued by Toyota
- The bushing that goes into the knuckle (outside end) of this arm is Toyota Part No. 42210-14010
- What is the Toyota Part No. for the bushing that goes on the inside end of this arm?
 
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