Group A from OZ

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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby DeeCee » Wed Aug 17, 2011 7:07 pm

What coil packs are you using? Altezza or Caldina st215?
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby Droptop93 » Wed Aug 17, 2011 10:03 pm

Puffy wrote:Car passed and now registered :D
Got a Haltech PS1000 for it and a set of 1NZFE Coil on plug setup ready to go on.

Feels damn good to drive the car again.


Looks like 1nzfe cop's not sure what motor that is....
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby DeeCee » Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:03 pm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_NZ_engine
Haha - out of a mighty rolla! Nice.
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby aus jd 2703 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:52 pm

Hey puffy. What brand of radiator did you end up with and how have you found it to
Cool when pushed?
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby Puffy » Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:05 am

Its a cheapy Golpher.
No issues with the 26mm but if you have the room go the double core 40mm.... you cant have too much cooling capacity on a 3SGTE.
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby aus jd 2703 » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:51 am

Puffy it's a bit of an ask but could you please send me your drawings and specs for the front rotor bells and the bracket. Ive been trying to figure a way out to do it but am struggling.
Please and thank you.
Ps are the 205 brakes up to track use in your opinion?
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby athousandleaves » Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:16 am

aus jd 2703 wrote:Puffy it's a bit of an ask but could you please send me your drawings and specs for the front rotor bells and the bracket. Ive been trying to figure a way out to do it but am struggling.
Please and thank you.
Ps are the 205 brakes up to track use in your opinion?


I'm nearly done designing a bolt on 205 caliper kit that is compatible with a nice big off the shelf rotor, testing is beginning soon and from what I project it might be a bit less expensive than puffies setup... Sorry to threadjack!
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby aus jd 2703 » Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:17 pm

Let me know how it goes. I'm guessing puffy isn't keen on sharing his design which is fair enough
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby Puffy » Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:31 pm

Happy to share but if leaves can get the calipers / brackets working with an off the shelf rotor, that would be MUCH more economical.

P.S. Im all for sharing information :P

She is now firing on 2NZFE COPS using the Haltech... revs and holds idle nicely but need to book a tune.

Took some figuring out... esp the home and trigger as they are wired a little different on a 3SGTE.
I put this wiring diagram together to help anyone going down the same path.

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The standard tachometer will not work off a haltech or in fact most aftermarket ECU's without a MSD type tach adaptor.
After a small modification of removing a resistor on the gauge, setting the DPO1 on the Haltech to 5v pullup, duty cycle 10% it is working nicely.
Setting the duty cycle to 30% as recommended by Haltech saw the tach jump around at 3.5K

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Last edited by Puffy on Fri Jul 26, 2013 2:28 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby l0ch0w » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:27 am

^y not just configure one of the extra PWM outputs as a 12v tach signal? I believe you switch to a 24k ohm resistor (dont quote me)

Also, why go through the effort of switching to COP if you are going to retain the stock home/trigger setup off the camshaft?

I always thought the point of COP was to clean up the solidity of the ignition, which ultimately means you must run a crank position sensor. Remember the timing belt has a bit of flex to it...
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby Puffy » Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:51 am

l0ch0w wrote:^y not just configure one of the extra PWM outputs as a 12v tach signal? I believe you switch to a 24k ohm resistor (dont quote me)

No real difference :shrug:
DPO1 has a built in pullup, makes it easy because you dont have to worry about replacing the resistor with the correct value... just bypass it.

l0ch0w wrote:why go through the effort of switching to COP if you are going to retain the stock home/trigger setup off the camshaft?
I always thought the point of COP was to clean up the solidity of the ignition, which ultimately means you must run a crank position sensor. Remember the timing belt has a bit of flex to it...


Sequential over wasted gives no improvement to ignition solidity.
We are talking 3 milliseconds dwell times and 1 m/s to discharge on these coils. A 3SGTE at 8K rpm has around 30 m/s between wasted spark.

I can understand how sequential can preserve ignition components but dont be fooled thinking ignition quality is greater over wasted.
If anything.. it adds more complexity to setup and mapping without giving any additional performance.
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby l0ch0w » Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:27 pm

Puffy wrote:
l0ch0w wrote:^y not just configure one of the extra PWM outputs as a 12v tach signal? I believe you switch to a 24k ohm resistor (dont quote me)

No real difference :shrug:
DPO1 has a built in pullup, makes it easy because you dont have to worry about replacing the resistor with the correct value... just bypass it.

l0ch0w wrote:why go through the effort of switching to COP if you are going to retain the stock home/trigger setup off the camshaft?
I always thought the point of COP was to clean up the solidity of the ignition, which ultimately means you must run a crank position sensor. Remember the timing belt has a bit of flex to it...


Sequential over wasted gives no improvement to ignition solidity.
We are talking 3 milliseconds dwell times and 1 m/s to discharge on these coils. A 3SGTE at 8K rpm has around 30 m/s between wasted spark.

I can understand how sequential can preserve ignition components but dont be fooled thinking ignition quality is greater over wasted.
If anything.. it adds more complexity to setup and mapping without giving any additional performance.


Firstly, i am familiar with the pullup resistor on the DPO outputs, but that will not fix the tach output. The stock tach is used to seeing a 20-25v square wave input. You have to convert the tach so that it can accept a lower voltage to run. It has much less to do with the pullup resistance within the haltech, and more to do with the actual voltage seen at the tachometer.

Secondly, I am not discussing the difference between wasted spark vs sequential ignition. I'm discussing the primary reason for wanting to run COPs in the first place. Standard Distributor based ignition systems rely on the cam trigger to tell the ecu where the engines position is. Because the points system is already pretty inaccurate its not that big of a deal. But I challenge you this... Stick a timing light on a vehicle running a cam/crank trigger setup vs one that is strictly run off the camshaft. You will notice that the cam/crank setup is far more solid. The cam only setup will jump around a bit, and as the belt stretches and heats up and stuff like that, the timing will continue to change. Every time you rev the motor, the timing belt is going to stretch a little bit, it introduces a mechanical flexibility into the system, and this is why the standard crank/cam trigger and home sensor is used on nearly ALL modern COP systems. Because it is pointless to run COP unless you are also running a crank position sensor, the home position sensor in all technicality for the sake of argument is totally unnecessary if your concerns of coil longevity in a wasted spark setup are not an issue.

Standard 3sgte distributor based ignition systems have been run successfully to very high HP levels, if your excuse for switching to COPs was to increase power output, you are sorely mistaken. My point is that if you plan on switching to COPs, you only reap the benefits unless you also run a crank position sensor...
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby Punknoodle » Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:49 pm

Just read through this for the first time. Unreal. Much respect!
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby Puffy » Sat Feb 22, 2014 4:02 am

Cheers mate.
Probably should update this thread :oops:
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Re: Group A from OZ

Postby Puffy » Mon Feb 24, 2014 9:17 am

Little update... fibreglassed the shroud smooth and stack gauges installed.
Tried matt black but ended liking the primer contrast so much that I went with battleship grey.

Wired the OEM fog switch to be my Hi/Lo boost toggle.

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