Help! No Boost control!

psipwrd

Member
Should I open a new thread under troubleshooting?

What does it mean if I can hear my coolant boiling? I drove, filled radiator, drove, filled IC. Topped off and still boiling.

:shrug:
 

l0ch0w

New member
You need to perform a leakdown test I think. It could be your headgasket...

Be careful though, the turbo makes boiling sounds when u shut it off... its supposed to...

IIRC the green plug is your coolant temperature sensor. They are retarded cheap to replace, and I can get you a replacement plug if yours has been ripped off...

That green plug, if not installed, will essentially cause your motor to run as if it were cold, which means tons of fuel, rev limit, and tons of timing. The main temperature sender is a pretty important component for your engine to run properly...
 

psipwrd

Member
I ordered the sensor on the 1st, hoping to get it by the 8th. I think this will fix my problems as I only have CEL code 22. I'll raise the front, top off the coolant and go from there.

Thanks for the input!!
 

psipwrd

Member
I got the sensor installed and all CEL codes are cleared. The car's driving perfectly fine. I still hear boiling after a hard drive. The boost is at 7psi in all gears and adjusting the MBC doesn't change it. It was all good before disconnecting the TVSV. What should I do to get boost back?
 

psipwrd

Member
I found my original problem. I used a boost controller that I stowed in the toolbox about 7 years ago. Well, when I stowed it, I put the ceramic ball under the spring and the ball bearing in the side port so I wouldn't lose it. The ball bearing was blocking the wastegate signal, causing the pressure to build up in the boost controller. :doh: 7 years is a long time :shrug:

The mbc didn't leak at all in the past but it now it's leaking so bad I could barely make 7 psi. The car is all back together and running perfect, TVSV and mbc disconnected, and line from compressor nipple directly to the wastegate. I'm getting 5 psi like this.

Where else could the pressure have built up? What other damage could I have done?
 

l0ch0w

New member
Boiling after a hard drive is normal with the CT series turbos, they are designed to boil coolant in them to help them cool faster after shutdown. Listen carefully, its the CHRA thats making all those "gurgly" noises..

As for boost, go and get yourself a decent MBC... It seems strange that you wouldnt be boosting to stock levels... if your wastegate controller isnt seeing boost reference at all, or if there is a leak then you would be seeing high boost pressures. If your wastegate is seeing full manifold pressure that is not bled off by a boost controller, then you will be seeing stockish boost levels (7-9psi)

If you are seeing under 7psi of boost then something is wrong... either with your wastegate controller spring, your turbo, or you have a massive boost leak, or your timing is way off.
Remember, if your motor is otherwise healthy and you blow a wastegate controller line, then your boost will go WAAAY up, not the opposite...

Get your motor healthy before trying to up your boost...
 

l0ch0w

New member
Also IIRC the TVSV is normally closed when not plugged in, which means that boost will be significantly lower as a large amount of boost reference pressure will not be let off... Which means that your MBC will need to let off alot more in order to increase boost...

If you really want to see if this is the problem, just plug the boost reference line to your wastegate, and see where your boost spikes to...
 

psipwrd

Member
I ordered a hallman, but I think it's the manifold gasket. I noticed some ticking while the engine's cold. Now I notice a high pitch whistle or whine at idle. In neutral when I raise the revs, the whistle is there. Under load when i raise the revs, it's gone. I think it's exhaust gases escaping right before the turbo so I soaked the heat shield bolts with liquid wrench.
 
Top