Exhaust manifold and hot side of turbo is glowing!!

by **celigts** » Fri May 18, 2012 7:46 pm

So coolant is bubbling and my #2 piston has low compression at 120psi

by **lalojamesliz** » Fri May 18, 2012 10:16 pm

im not the smartest guy here on this but doesnt that sound like a leak in the head gasket from the cylinder to the coolant passages? take head off, have it serviced and check the block for warp put back together with a metal headgasket

by **Cryptonitis2000** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 1:39 pm

I also corrected the ignition timing, (which was actually very close to start with), and my compression test was acceptable. Number 2 and Number 3 cylinders were slightly lower than the others. My Alltrac is boiling coolant now also, so I'm lead to believe that the coolant system is inefficient and I'm trying to figure out a way to make it more effective. I have already done a coolant flush by sticking the garden hose in the top of the radiator, opening the radiator drain cock, and running it for 30 minutes while blasting the water through it. I'm considering buying a brand new radiator, and/or removing the a/c heat exchanger. Also adding another fan to the other side of the radiator (on the front passenger side of the radiator) acting as a pusher. I belive my 3" downpipe is heat soaking the radiator, and the coolant coming back out of the radiator is too hot still. I have tested my theory with my laser temperature gadget pointed right at the lower radiator hose. My car is now overheating at stop lights and just low rpm cruising after 30 min of driving. The temps under the hood get out of control after it runs for a while! I wish I could just drive it around without the hood on! It's like all the cooling system is doing is cycling hot fluid. I picked up some "Water Wetter" and I'm thinking about draining the coolant and making a summer mix with the water wetter and distilled water as well. It's supposed to transfer heat better. I'm also thinking that my head gasket might be blown. It could be pushing exhaust gas into the coolant, but I'm really hoping that's not the case. The engine still has good power and there is no sign of oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil. Another possibility is that the aftermarket thermostat I installed is creating a restriction of coolant flow. If I rev the engine to 2k rpm it and hold it, it actually makes the temp drop.

by **Boo_Guy** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:41 pm

I hope you did the simple stuff like making sure the rad cap is still keeping the right pressure

Using a higher rated one will raise the boiling rate of the coolant as well...

Other than that, I got nothing, good luck!

by **underscore** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 4:34 pm

that's not quite how you're supposed to do a coolant flush...

by **Cryptonitis2000** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:54 pm

Boo_Guy wrote:I hope you did the simple stuff like making sure the rad cap is still keeping the right pressure

Using a higher rated one will raise the boiling rate of the coolant as well...

Other than that, I got nothing, good luck!

I didn't check that I just inspected it visually and thought it would have been fine! Thanks for bringing that up, that's an excellent point!

by **Cryptonitis2000** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:59 pm

underscore wrote:that's not quite how you're supposed to do a coolant flush...

That was the first time I did a coolant flush, I saw a video on it and I thought it was a good way to do it. After it was done I read the procedure in the service manual and realized it was wrong. I was thinking that the tap water is still in the system now which will lead to corrosion. Now I need to find that drain plug for the engine so I get it all back out. Anyone know where it is? I see the arrow pointing to it in the service manual, but I haven't found it yet. Is it a screw in type plug?

by **underscore** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:23 pm

Tap water shouldn't be too bad if it's mixed with antifreeze. Before you change that though, run a proper coolant frush product through there, then run some water through, then refill it with a water/antifreeze mix.

Rad caps aren't something I'd visually inspect, they're so cheap that if you're having any kind of cooling issue I'd suggest buying a new one. I've had a brand new one fail within a week and a beat up old one that worked fine

by **Cryptonitis2000** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:03 pm

I did some more tests. Compression test had decent results. Coolant pressure test held 17psi after fix leaks replacing hoses. Leakdown test was decent with no more than 10 percent loss per cylinder, but there was bubbles coming up through the radiator so I have a blown headgasket! This explains the overheating and high temps. It seems like the engine is still in decent shape though and it runs good so I'm gonna tear it down and replace it. I'm sure I'll end end adding more to that to do list while it's apart. Any recommendations on what head gasket to buy? Links would be appreciated also.

by **quieter** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:08 pm

hks, apex or cometic, get a metal one, not the cheap graphite ones on ebay

by **celigts** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:51 am

What about the ceramic.

by **OutToWinPAHC** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 12:26 pm

I'm using a cometic gasket, motors about to go back in. My motor was good though but I still had my head taken apart, cleaned, resurfaced, ported the intake runners a bit, new valve guides, stem seals, and cam seals. When using a MLS gasket you should always have the head checked and skimmed for a glass like surface.

by **loudstealthGT-Four** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 6:51 am

You can use a head gasket from a Gen3 3SGTE, which is a MLS gasket, if your planning on running abit of extra boost then I'd defiantly recommend running a MLS gasket.

Which does require the head and block to be checked and prepped

by **OutToWinPAHC** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:02 pm

I tried to order that gasket and it's no longer available

by **celigts** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:53 am

Got a little better pic of the glowing manifold. More direct to where all the heat is. started running 94oct rather then 91 and still same problem