would this godspeed turbo work on my st185??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GODSPEED-ge...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I would assume that it would, but is it a good option for the price range? I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my motor and could use to replace the turbo while its all out(too much shaft play). Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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Looks like it will fit. Looks like you will get very little gain over a stock unit. I would rebuild the stock one or do it properly and talk to ats or koracing.

I hate the CT series turbos. Simply, it's just a dated turbo.

What sucks is to go bigger/better, which can be costly with our cars considering you'll need better fuel and better tuning capabilities, as you'll quickly max out the stock goods with more boost or even same/lower boost on a bigger turbo.

I would look at used ATS turbos, as they have been "proven" to work, so I can't comment on that turbo you linked.

Bryan

They cannot even supply a stock shaped manifold to turbo gasket looking at the photo. Also NEVER buy anything from a seller who does not even have correct spelling and gramma, who knows what other stuff they will do a half assed job at.

I would go over on mr2oc and buy a used ct20b for that price. Or try to find a lightly used ct27 or just save up some money and buy a new ct27. I would rather have a lightly used turbo that was built by toyota or ats then a poorly manufactured turbo built by a bunch of 12 yr old chinese girls. Ebay chinese built turbos are notorious for having reliability issues. Throwing wheels, leaking oil seals etc. I would save myself the grief and buy a good turbo thats doesnt have the potential to give you alot of problems.

garbage knock off turbos.

garbage knock off turbos that have lasted twice as long as my stock turbo. not sure you you realize but your garrett turbos that you love so much, made in china. precision, made in mexico or china. so all your brand name turbo's that you say last so much longer and are so much better, not so much. i personally had a garrett gt3076r on my built civic back in my honda days, blew the seals in about 500 miles. bought an ebay turbo to replace it because i didn't have enough money, that same turbo, 35,000 combined miles later, is now on my alltrac.

Ranting aside, the key to making a turbo last is giving it the RIGHT amount of oil. for oil cooled, ebay, garrett, etc. a -3an fitting or .065" restrictor or so will keep you from blowing seals. for water cooled, .040" restrictor is best.

the stigma around ebay turbo's only held water about 5-10 years ago when they were actually shit. now they are coming from the same factories as all the big brand name turbo's. treat it right it will last forever, no matter what the brand.

^I can only assume you weren't responding to me, but in response to you for the OP:

What I personally meant as being proven to work is the boring/honing and wheel combo that ATS provides on their CT27 has been proven to be good, not just the actual quality itself.

Otherwise, ebay or not, you should try to ditch the CT turbo if you can. However, like I said, to go to a different turbo (bigger or not) is a bit extensive than upgrading to a bigger CT:

Need manifold adapter, new turbo, new lines, new downpipe at the least.

Bryan

yes it is a relatively expensive and labor intensive job to switch from a factory turbo on our cars, but then again, what car isn't. the CT series turbos are just too restricive to make anything decent over 300 hp. personally, it seemed like the only way to go though. i would rather have a turbo that spools a bit later than a stocker and doesn't drop off.

that was my biggest gripe about all the ct turbos i have tried. i had my stock ct26 off my st165, then i went to a supra ct26, rode in a friends mr2 with an ats ct27, and they all had the same "ran out of steam after 55-6000 rpm" feeling to me. threw on the ebay turbo with a manifold i made myself and what a world of difference, NO drop off at all. now i have an SSAC manifold just because i'm not the best welder, but i did put braces on it and man that thing hauled. till the infamous st165 head crack.


so for some, the stock turbo or stock-frame turbo might be adequate for their hp goals, but it just wasn't in the cards for me as i'm looking for 400-450 awhp....eventually

don't even attempt to correct me with bullshit personal experiences and falsities.
precision are made in house in the fucking USA. unlike garrett. get your facts straight. then attempt to talk to me.
and the fact that your CIVIC didn't work out has nothing to do with a CELICA.

Ranting aside, the key to making a turbo last is giving it the RIGHT amount of oil. for oil cooled, ebay, garrett, etc. a -3an fitting or .065" restrictor or so will keep you from blowing seals. for water cooled, .040" restrictor is best.

uh huh...and this comes from where? i'd love to see proof that this is correct as well.

does it have nothing to do with it? are they both not inline 4 cylinder turbocharged cars with belt driven oil pumps that exceed 60 psi at redline? umm yes. were these both not turbo that only require a fraction of that pressure in order to suspend the shaft within the bearings? you're right, they're nothing alike. sorry i made a mistake about where precision's are made, i'm assuming you took offense to it because you have one.

either way, i'm not saying that ebay turbo's are better or even similar quality. but if i can get one of those piece of junk turbo's to run for the same amount of time as a brand name one, i'm happy. "why, you still just have a piece of junk ebay turbo?" that's real fucking cool that you spend 6 times as much on your turbo to look at a brand name. i'm really impressed.

what's more impressive, a car that's put together out of a catalog, or something that's custom built with off brand parts and performs as well for a fraction of the cost.

and that information about restrictors, pretty simple to find, or calculate. i also mistyped, journal bearings need a little more volume to operate, meaning they need the .65" restrictor, while ball bearing only need the .040". don't believe me, call up ATPturbo, they'll tell you the same thing i do

toayoztan":3uje0q58 said:

^I can only assume you weren't responding to me, but in response to you for the OP:

What I personally meant as being proven to work is the boring/honing and wheel combo that ATS provides on their CT27 has been proven to be good, not just the actual quality itself.

Otherwise, ebay or not, you should try to ditch the CT turbo if you can. However, like I said, to go to a different turbo (bigger or not) is a bit extensive than upgrading to a bigger CT:

Need manifold adapter, new turbo, new lines, new downpipe at the least.

Bryan

Click to expand...

i was talking to the a guy that rebuilds turbos out here in CA
and does up grades to turbos and such. he was telling me he was doing the actual
upgrades known as the ct27 and ats was selling them, then they broke from him and do it on there own now
i just recently had one rebuild by him and did the t3/t4 hybrid turbo "ct27" for less than what half what they are charging..
truth to that idk, but here she is.

I have run a ebay t3/t4 and a very similar sized comp turbo. The difference was $1200 and 700rpm before full boost. Thats a huge difference on the street.... and wallet.