Punknoodle's ST185

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Punknoodle's ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:43 am

Hey all,

So I thought I'd start this project thread with a bit of detail on various things I've done to the car.

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Keen eyes will notice the head is actually a Gen 1, this was done by the previous owner for some unknown reason, although it has been freshly rebuilt and is sporting a good porting and custom cams. Ideally I would like to swap to a built Gen 3 head but that isn't a priority, we'll see what this engine does with the right mapping first.

So, excuse me for copying and pasting but here is my modification list at time of writing, copied over from my New Member post:

- Head has been freshly rebuilt and ported, custom cams, ARP head studs
- Forged pistons, shot peened rods, ARP rod bolts, knife edged crank
- K&N Filter, Samco silicon induction hose and AFM delete pipe, custom cold air intake, Turbosmart Vee Port BOV
- ST205 charge cooler set up
- 3 Port Boost Solenoid, Autometer Pro Comp boost gauge, Innovate LC-1 wideband controller
- Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 ECU, 1ZZ Coil on Plug ignition, MSD Tach Adapter
- Walbro 255 l/hr fuel pump, new braided lines in engine bay with speed flow fittings, Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator and gauge (cold start injector removed and air temp sensor for ECU installed in its place)
- Custom dump pipe, high flowed turbo exhaust housing (to eliminate boost creep from the wastegate not flowing enough)
- Custom 3" mandrel bent stainless exhaust from dump pipe back with high flow cat and single rear mufler
- PWR aluminium radiator
- Exedy clutch, lightened flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts
- TWM Short Shift Kit
- TEIN Super Street coilover suspension
- Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
- Solid rubber engine mounts
- Whiteline Plus and Superpro chassis control bushes
- Whiteline rear camber adjustment bolts
- Stainless braided brake lines
- SSR Professor SP1 wheels, 17" x 8" +37 front and rear, Normal Disc option front, Super Low Disc option rear
- Dunlop Sportmaxx TT tires, 215/45
- Alpine head unit, Infinity Reference speakers 4" front and 6.5" rear, Sony Xplod 4 channel amplifier
- Hella H4 headlight conversion kit with Phillips Crystalview headlamps and parklamps
- 1kg Fire Extinguisher mounted in front of passenger seat
- New leather shift boot with leather TRD shift knob
- Air Conditioning delete

Installation of ST205 Cooler:

This was pretty awkward, actually. I bought it on eBay, knowing that people can get them to fit with a little bit of work but not doing a lot of research in to it. Upon getting it I decided my best course of action was to use a throttle body adapter from ATS Racing cut shorter with a silicone reducer for the outlet of the charge cooler. I also had this anodized black.

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This shot shows how it connects quite clearly:

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The intake side took a lot more work. I needed the cooler to sit in a particular spot, factoring in my coil on plug set up and my non Group A bonnet, and I wanted it to sit nice and straight. Upon talking to the guys at A.R.E here in Brisbane we decided to cut the entire side out of the cooler and weld a new section on, moving the entry location and also welding on my V band adapter to replace the standard BOV outlet:

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For the heat exchanger I went from one from Frozen Boost, I had already bought it before talking to the guys and A.R.E, they said it is too heavy for the application and that for really good cooling I should go with something a lot lighter, but I'm going to see how this goes once the Haltech is in and I can log intake air temps.

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The pump is mounted to the support bar behind the bumper.

After all the fab work, was it worth it and should I have just gone with a front mount? Maybe. If I had the Group A bumper and a side entry manifold then I would have definitely gone with a front mount but with my current set up I thought this would be the tidiest solution while still providing me with a superior flowing and performing cooler.

As you can see from the engine shot above I have also had a new intake pipe made, sans AFM which goes through the heat shield I made. I'm quite proud of that creation :)

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That will do for now, I'll detail my COP and ECU related stuff next post :)
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Last edited by Punknoodle on Sun Jul 10, 2016 3:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Punknoodle's ST185 90WRC

Postby Punknoodle » Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:58 am

C.O.P installation:

I decided when I chose to install a stand alone management system that I would go from a standard distributor to individual coils. I decided on 1ZZ coils, but due to me using a Gen 1 head and cam cover I needed to have little spacers machined.

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Because the Gen 1 cam cover has 2 gaskets, one for each side, the centre of it isn't sealed, so I was able to drill and tap the cover to bolt the coils down. I'll have to see how this goes, there is ZERO clearance on the coil sitting below the intake adapter which worries me a little. I may have to swap to LS1 style coils if these don't work too well, but I thought it was tidy.

ECU:

For ECU I decided on a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000. I also installed a 3 port solenoid for boost control duties to be controlled by the Haltech, and removed the cold start injector and installed a Haltech Air Temp Sensor in its place, on a custom plate I made up.

To drive the factory tach I bought an MSD tach adapter which is driven from an output on the Haltech.

To wire the new components I made a sub harness - it will do the job nicely until I decide to go all out and make an entire new loom.

Fueling:

Because I had the fuel tank out to be able to drill through the floor of the boot to mount my plate which holds the battery box, I decided it was a good time to install a Walbro 255 fuel pump. I bypassed the fuel pump speed relay when doing this and decided on going with a Turbosmart FPR800 regulator and new braided lines with Speed Flow fittings. Because I have a Gen 1 head I already have a simple large top feed rail :)

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Other random bits and pieces:

Fire extinguisher mount in front of passenger seat

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Battery Relocation

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By the way if anyone wants a write up on using the wiring for the A/C condenser fan to power the pump for a water to air system let me know I came up with a really simple way of doing it, and making in run when the engine is running only.
Last edited by Punknoodle on Sun Jul 10, 2016 3:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Sneaky184 » Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:16 pm

Hey buddy,

Is the haltech easy to wire up or did you use an adapter something similar to this:

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... 22_544.jpg

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m4 ... TQ:AU:1123

I'm about to install a aftermarket ECU myself either a AEM or Haltech

Thanks
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Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:37 am

You can use an adapter that you plug your factory harness in to and it just has tails you can wire to, to save cutting the factory harness. I didn't bother with this, though as I was changing so much from factory that it would just be a big pain in the ass to return to stock come time to ever sell the car any way, and cutting the factory harness and splicing on to the Haltech loom is the tidiest way for me. It's pretty easy to wire dude, I can help when it comes to trigger wiring etc when the time comes :) Are you going to keep it distributer based or go individual coils?
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby CMS-GT4 » Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:41 am

The car looks good.
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Sneaky184 » Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:44 am

Punknoodle wrote:It's pretty easy to wire dude, I can help when it comes to trigger wiring etc when the time comes :) Are you going to keep it distributer based or go individual coils?


Not really comfortable yet with splicing wires/car electronics yet I've been doing some research into it and pro/cons/pitfalls etc.. defiantly something I'm going to upgrade when I'm ready to do it. I've got 2 local tuners happy to use Haltech or AEM but both charge quiet a bit. That adapter I posted earlier caught my attension just hoping it's not dodgy and doesn't ruin my ecu/cause a fire :doh:
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:26 am

Ahh, OK I had a better look at that little box. It's a good idea - saves you having to work out which wire is which - but you will end up needing to leave some things connected through the box, and for others you will need to run new wires and solder them directly anyway, for example on a Gen 2 the intake air temp sensor is in with the AFM, which is absurd, and most people remove the AFM anyway, seen as when you install your nice new ECU it will be running off the MAP sensor, and you want to remove that restriction in your intake. So you will need to install a new sensor and wire it back. Also, you may want to add a boost solenoid, which isn't allowed for in that box so you will need to connect it directly to the ECU loom. Does that make sense?

Personally, I don't like the idea of any wiring in a vehicle being done using screw terminals. Vibrations can make them come loose, etc. Soldering is a tidy and strong connection that, if done right, won't fail. I'm an industrial electrician so, hopefully without sounding like an arrogant prick, this sort of thing is pretty easy for me.

I have done connection diagrams of my ECU to factory harness connections, plus my new stuff I have added but I'm running COP, not distributor so its a little different. I have no problem if you aren't in a rush doing some diagrams for you to use so that you can wire it directly without the need of one of those boxes, and will add in the diagram any devices you want to add, for example a boost solenoid or new air intake sensor. Let me know if I can help :)

By the way the thought of it may be daunting but it really isn't that hard. As long as you know how to solder. I'd recommend using one of the adapter leads like I was talking about, or connecting straight to the harness.
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby underscore » Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:22 pm

Punknoodle wrote:Ahh, OK I had a better look at that little box. It's a good idea - saves you having to work out which wire is which - but you will end up needing to leave some things connected through the box, and for others you will need to run new wires and solder them directly anyway, for example on a Gen 2 the intake air temp sensor is in with the AFM, which is absurd, and most people remove the AFM anyway, seen as when you install your nice new ECU it will be running off the MAP sensor, and you want to remove that restriction in your intake. So you will need to install a new sensor and wire it back. Also, you may want to add a boost solenoid, which isn't allowed for in that box so you will need to connect it directly to the ECU loom. Does that make sense?


I remember someone on here simply cut off the plug for the MAF and then connected the plug for the MAP to a couple of the MAF wires, eliminating the need to run new wiring all the way back to the ECU.
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Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:42 pm

I see what you are getting at and its a good thought, but that wasn't my point, as that wouldn't help in this situation as the wiring would still be in the AFM location on that little adapter, plus there is already factory wiring for the MAP sensor anyway on the 3SGTE, it's just called a Turbo Pressure Sensor. So that wouldn't really be a problem, besides most people on standard boost would run the on board map sensor on the ECU to save on calibration time anyway.

No my point is that as soon as you need to change or add something, regardless of if they are new wires or spare/redundant wires within the harness is that to do the connections you will need to do it external of that little adapter box, as in wire straight to the ECU loom, so why not just do them all that way? Solder > Screw Terminals.

Unless when you go to a stand alone management system you don't mind running the factory AFM and air temp sensor, distributer, no ECU boost control and so you will only need to do the connections on that terminal block.

Does that make sense?
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby underscore » Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:20 pm

Well yes solder is always best, but I absolutely hate seeing extra wires scattered around an engine bay. Especially when there are spare, now unused wires in the original harness. I wouldn't use an adapter box like that unless it was the only option, instead I'd use one of those adapter harnesses that allows you to repin things as needed.
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Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:49 pm

I'm with you on the extra wires. For example when it came time to power my water to air pump I used the redundant feed for the air con condenser fan, and changed the wiring of the relay to suit it's function. Here is the diagram I made:

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Those connections are done within the relay box, as in, completely invisible.

I simply had to run new wires as I was doing individual coils, so I made a sub loom, which incorporates the wiring for the coils, plus the boost solenoid, air temp sensor and tachometer output. It's all in black wrap and tied to the original harness, with black ties, and is pretty near invisible, unless you are looking.

I do have spare plugs around, for the AFM, igniter (and that new tachometer output wire is spliced in to one of the wires at this plug), EGR crap, air con, cold start injector etc but they are just tied up under the harness to make them less obvious. It's not ideal but save for making a completely new engine harness up its the tidiest way, I think.
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby CSAlltrac » Sun Oct 21, 2012 1:44 am

Very clean and tidy. I like it! I look forward to future posts.
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Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Sun Oct 21, 2012 2:49 am

Thanks mate. Unfortunately I won't really be able to offer updates until Feb. I leave next Sunday and won't be home until the start of Feb, save for a couple of weeks at Christmas time, so there will be zero progress on the car until then, thankfully though it will be pretty big process after that - I'll do a thorough post about the wiring of the ECU with plenty of diagrams and photos, hopefully to help those who want to install stand alone management in to their ST185s, then it will be towed off to my tuner who will do the set up and tune.

I'm aiming for him to set the boost to 15psi, due to it being a stock turbo and see how much better if feels, it misfires and feels really flat down low currently so hopefully that's improved with more aggressive timing.

Quick question for people, do you think I should stick with the standard wastegate actuator, or will installing an adjustable one with an 11psi spring make boost control using a solenoid a little more stable? Just curious...

So last real update on the car for now - I bought an extra couple of stands and jacked the rear of the car up too, which is how it will sit until I get back. I also mounted the overflow for the charge cooler up properly, so the following photo is pretty much the finished look of the engine bay, with the current set up.

Oh and I ordered some new number plates too, slim for the front normal for the rear - white on black looks so much better than maroon on white!

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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:45 am

Small update, I stumbled upon a great condition CT20B for a good price so I decided that I'd better do it, it will be a good opportunity to install it before it gets tuned. I'm getting the wastegate ports enlarged before it goes in.

I also picked up some 750cc injectors (this leaves room for the future or a conversion to E85) and ordered new gaskets for fitting the turbo and a new oil return line due to it's age.
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Re: Punknoodle's Aus-Spec ST185

Postby klue » Fri Nov 30, 2012 1:18 am

Really like the wheels, and your fab work. Nice beads on the intercooler, its a real pain to weld on that thing!

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