Rear diff kit installation tricks

underscore

Well-known member
Not all of us have presses or money to burn, so post up any tips or tricks on how to get the old bushings out and the ones from Luke/Mario/whoever installed.

What's worked for me thus far tonight:

To remove the two smaller bushings, get a medium/smallish flat screwdriver or wedge, and a large flat screwdriver or wedge, a bigass hammer, some sockets and a long bolt. If you have a vice then awesome, if not brace it with your foot or whatever (but be careful not to hurt yourself)

Flip the bracket thing around so the more open end of the bushing is facing you. You can now see the metal tube where it curls over and sits flush with the bracket. Hammer the small screwdriver between the bushing sleeve and the bracket until they start to separate a bit (I found it was easiest to start where the two halves of the sleeve meet). Get the big screwdriver and hammer it in there, rotating it around until that half of the sleeve is as far out as it will go with that screwdriver. Repeat for the other half.

Now flip the bracket on its side, pick a socket that has roughly the same outer diameter as the metal tube on the inside of the bushing. Put the bolt through the socket and through the bushing, to hold the socket in place. Brace the bracket and beat the snot out of the socket, after a few good hits it should pop the old bushing free (it may shoot halfway across your garage when it does come free).

I've started trying this with the bigger bushings but I think I need a larger wedge to get the sleeve further out because it won't budge. That or a bigger hammer.
 

l00k0v3rth3r3

New member
i found that getting the old one out...for the big one at least its easiest to push the metal sleeve out first. Burn it and get in there with a small sharp knife and cut the four rubber areas that hold it in there, then beat the piss out of it with your socket... I personally used a socket with an extension. When getting the half metal outer sleeves out just use a screwdriver and hammer, separate the lip from the housing and then come at it from the back end. To get the bigger one in I used the axle nut socket ( the big mother fucker ) with a long 1/2" drive extension + a ton of grease. hope that helps

also once the old ones are out take wd40 or deep creep or whatever penetrating oil you use and clean the inner diameter of the bushing housing
 

Mafix

New member
air hammer and a torch. and the 4 big ones are a bitch. we did one set without a torch or an air hammer. it took forever.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Oooh air hammer, good idea. What area did you torch? The subframe, or the rubber guts of the old bushing?

l00k0v3rth3r3 good idea about cutting out the center. I tried hammering on the sleeves from the backside though and I think I started to damage the subframe so I stopped. Although I assume it would move more freely with the center out.
 

l00k0v3rth3r3

New member
underscore":10utzosc said:
Oooh air hammer, good idea. What area did you torch? The subframe, or the rubber guts of the old bushing?

l00k0v3rth3r3 good idea about cutting out the center. I tried hammering on the sleeves from the backside though and I think I started to damage the subframe so I stopped. Although I assume it would move more freely with the center out.


it basically falls out once you get the center out
 

underscore

Well-known member
Update:

I managed to get all four big ones out, after a few herp derp moments with a bolt type puller I can now pop them out in a couple of minutes each. I basically did the same thing as above, little screwdriver then big screwdriver to pry it out as far as I can, then I took a 27mm socket and put a bolt through it backwards (so the open end faces you) and bolted the socket onto the bushing. This kept it from jumping off and seemed to transfer the energy better. Then I soaked WD40 down between the sleeve and the subframe, let it sit for a minute to soak down, and then beat the piss out of it. 4 good whacks and out they came. I'm pretty sure the WD40 helped because the sides of the subframe and sleeve were covered in it when they popped apart.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Now I just ned to find the best way to clean up and protect the rear subframe and pop the new bushings in.
 

celigts

New member
Well tonight's the night for getting this done. Will anyone be able to help me quickly if I'm in need of it? And the tapered cap goes on the bottom correct? Does it matter for the small bushings what side the cap goes on?
 

celigts

New member
For your pm :D ill try taking lots of pics and posting them here for reference to anyone who will feel better doing it with pics. I love pics!
 

underscore

Well-known member
I love them too but I suck at taking them, usually cause everything ends up dirty as hell and I don't want to ruin my camera.
 

celigts

New member
That makes sense. I have family around so maybe they can help with that :) or ill wrap a rag around the camera lol
 

celigts

New member
I have a question for those who have installed the kits.

Do I need to torque everything or do I thicken them snug. Not reef on it right but tight.

I will also be wire wheel cleaning the bolts and nuts... Bad idea or good idea? Anything I need to buy to help them from getting rusty or seized in the future
 

MWP

New member
Best idea is to torque everything to factory specs, and use green or blue lock tight.

Dont wire-wheel the factory bolts!
Youll take the anti-rust coating off them.
Let them sock in degreaser, and give a light brush with a brass (not steel!) wire-brush if needed.
 

celigts

New member
MWP":3kvzwry8 said:
Best idea is to torque everything to factory specs, and use green or blue lock tight.

Dont wire-wheel the factory bolts!
Youll take the anti-rust coating off them.
Let them sock in degreaser, and give a light brush with a brass (not steel!) wire-brush if needed.

Thank goodness someone replied for me! So a brass brush will be acceptable to clean debris off and rust buildup.

Shit, forgot the degreaser I have but it's purple... Purple plus?
 
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