Just got my head and valves back from Swain Tech (pics)

BADNEWS

BADNEWS

Member
Got my head and valves in the mail yesterday from Swain Tech. They did a thermal coating on the combustion chambers, exhaust posts, face of the valves, Radius side of the valves, and a low friction coating on the valve stems. Thermal coating is a white/grey color, and the low friction coating is dark grey color.

I'm also having the bottom end done too. Piston tops with a thermal gold coat, Piston skirts with the low friction coating, all my bearings with the low friction coatings, and my crank and rods with an oil shed coating. That should be back to me in a week or so.

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Z

ZeroDrift

New member
Looks good, but I honestly was expecting to see the valve seats and the mating surface on the valve masked off. Are you having the machining work done on these parts after coating? I'll be doing the same to my valves, but I won't be doing much to the combustion chamber as I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner large enough.
 
BADNEWS

BADNEWS

Member
ZeroDrift":1n7cjvwj said:
Looks good, but I honestly was expecting to see the valve seats and the mating surface on the valve masked off. Are you having the machining work done on these parts after coating? I'll be doing the same to my valves, but I won't be doing much to the combustion chamber as I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner large enough.
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I have to lap the valves now till all the coating is off.
 
BADNEWS

BADNEWS

Member
Rpz123isme":wcnnjcdn said:
All that coating is not wise. Only thing you should do is sleeve the block and sent it to have nick-sil.
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I did research and saw how these coatings do improve engine efficiency. And sleeving your block more often actually weakens it. Most of the time you take out so much material that the stock cylinder wall ends up cracking behind the sleeve. Which is why I went with a 5S block and filled.
 
K

klue

New member
The coating should definitely help once it stays on. My only concern would be the finish, it seems pitted and in consistent. I usually just do some polishing on CC and that seems to work well enough for me

Cheers
 
Z

ZeroDrift

New member
I'm all for ceramic coating. Honestly; I offer that service at my business. Forgive me for saying, but that does look a little quick and messy. The pitting and whatnot does seem disconcerting. Check to see if it has been applied evenly over the valves and head. At the very least email them about it and verify things. I've heard great things about the company in the past and the quality was not what I was expecting.
 
L

l0ch0w

New member
For all that work, why didn't you have a mild bowl blend and port de-shrouding done in the combustion chamber? Just because you have a Swaintech coating now doesn't mean that hot spots cant develop on the valve shrouds. Maybe I'm missing something, but the caliber of your build would have lent me to believe that you were looking for the best of the best. Im not ragging on Swaintech or their product. I in fact have my piston crowns coated in the stuff. Im just concerned that maybe you may have skipped a vital step in your quest for big power.

Porting isn't really worth much with the 3S head, and most know that, but cleaning things up can pay off. Most of the successful high HP 3S guys I know have at least cleaned up the casting flaws on the ports, done mild bowl blending, and de-shrouded and polished up the combustion chamber to reduce hot spots. Remember, hot spots develop on pointy or crevice areas, which is why high power heads are nice and smooth in their combustion chambers...
 
BADNEWS

BADNEWS

Member
l0ch0w":3hsh7305 said:
For all that work, why didn't you have a mild bowl blend and port de-shrouding done in the combustion chamber? Just because you have a Swaintech coating now doesn't mean that hot spots cant develop on the valve shrouds. Maybe I'm missing something, but the caliber of your build would have lent me to believe that you were looking for the best of the best. Im not ragging on Swaintech or their product. I in fact have my piston crowns coated in the stuff. Im just concerned that maybe you may have skipped a vital step in your quest for big power.

Porting isn't really worth much with the 3S head, and most know that, but cleaning things up can pay off. Most of the successful high HP 3S guys I know have at least cleaned up the casting flaws on the ports, done mild bowl blending, and de-shrouded and polished up the combustion chamber to reduce hot spots. Remember, hot spots develop on pointy or crevice areas, which is why high power heads are nice and smooth in their combustion chambers...
Click to expand...


I had my head done by Class One Inc. who does all of Mike Reichen's engine work. They never mentiones it to me. Even all the pits in my combustion chamber, I was told is fine and not worth the time sanding all the material out completely. As for the de-shroud, I have seen that on the MR2 boards a lot. One guy posted pics of how it went further out than the headgasket. He had ATS do his headwork. You can see from my coatings where the headgasket is. There is no room to take material away. The headgasket is 1 or 2mm bigger than my bore. And if you do deshroud, the block is still right there in your way. So I never even mentioned it to them for their opinion.

The big thing we did with my head is port the exhaust side to flow more. Stock the intake side flows more than the exhaust side. Class One told me, they like to get the exhaust side to flow 10% more on turbo motors than the intake. So that is where most of the head work was done. I'm in the 7% range now depending on lift.
 
H

Hotrodhendrix

New member
Thats alot of coating yep yep. Should be a beast of a motor once its all said and done. Now of course if you get bored or anything you may give it to me... Your welcome :p

~James
 
BADNEWS

BADNEWS

Member
Got my crank back from Swain today. Need to gap my rings and then it's assembly time. I'll post a pic of everything when I get to assembling it. Should be a couple weeks.

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