sleeper":22327y6r said:
Looks really good, but there are a few parts i would change\drop:
1: the crank pully ( from what i have seen, those do not have any harmonic balancing? would def use the stock one.
2: why do you need a fenspot overdrive powersteering pully ? ( waste of money!? )
3: don`t use the nology plug wires! they SUCK! ( try to lett the car run in a completly dark room and you will see why.. )
4: would use stock crossmember bushings, you need a little flex somewhere to keep drivetrain in one piece
5: if possible: try to get a thicker "stock" copper radiator.
6: don`t think that hks clutch will hold 700awhp..
7: get some poly bushings for rear sub frame. ( need some form of flex. )
8: would def use the 6466..
9: moroso oil pan.
I think this will be a NASTY car. and i am by no means trying to be a asshole here... just trying to contribute with what i have experienced tru the years of tuning..
Agree 88.9%
(#4) Wont running Poly engine Mounts negate the need to worry about solid cross-member mounts since flex will come from those?
I know my personal build is not complete yet and not at the same level (nor am I insane enough yet to build to that level), but I've worked on and around and in 800+ HP mr2s before and a lot of this stuff applies...
Here are some of my big pieces of advice:
-re-torque your head studs after 200 and 1000 miles, stock floppy engine mounts help to keep bolts from backing out, including head studs. Put thread locker on just about everything thats not inside the oil of your engine, and use a paint marker to verify all bolts are properly torqued and thread-locked.
-Buy some prevailing torque or locking exhaust studs. Stock bolts WILL back out on you guaranteed... especially on a custom exhaust manifold.
-Be prepared to crack your exhaust manifold most likely around the wastegate areas a few times... even the best and greatest stainless manifolds will probably crack a few times before you get all the stress points figured out.
-Get some locking bolts (Stage8 makes good ones) for your front CV joints... the extra vibration likes to back them out and then spray your underside with axle grease.
-Here is the biggie... Have you thought of using a higher flow 5S oil pump from the Solara instead of just shimming your pump? most people will tell you that overriding the stock pump values is not wise... Flow is more important than pressure is, if your pump in the past was not delivering enough oil to the bearings and caused bearing starvation, it was probably not a function of the pressure valve not being high enough, but rather the oil pump not being capable of flowing enough oil through it at max RPM and high temperatures. I dont feel like looking up the part numbers for this, but Id suggest going here:
http://atsracing.com/Parts/Details/E-OILPUMP. This will solve your oil starvation issues, NOT shimming your pump...