OKC Project-8/1/15-Another fun car!

toayoztan

Moderator
About 225+150 core charge (have to send back your old rack in rebuildable condition in the original box).

Adding up the components of the inner tie rod ends and boots alone is about the cost of the whole reman. rack.

As for the blower motor, yeah I'm going to have to back track and see if anything is wrong. When I temporarily hooked up the wiring harness to a battery, I didn't really have any good grounds (just one ground point), so maybe it's not seeing a ground well either. At least the relay clicks, so I know the signal is getting to them...might just be an issue with insufficient power/ground to the relay due to my half ass temp. set up to test things out.

Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Well, I have my engine bay harness inside my car (front seats are out), and hooked up as if it would be, however I only have one large (like 0/1 gauge) wire grounded from the battery to the chassis somewhere (bolt hole for front seat).

Then the engine bay harness is hooked up to a charged battery as usual with the battery terminals. Obviously, it isn't the optimal set up as when I test things (light, sunroof) everything seems to be "weak."

However, the blower motor won't kick on at all. I hear the blower relay click (technically the "heater relay" in the diagram), but nothing happens. I'm hoping the relay is still bad. Otherwise, I'm either not getting any power (which means I'll have to rip things out again) or I'm not getting sufficient power due to my half assed wiring set up.

Here is what I removed (shaded in grey): A few of us have checked over this, so it doesn't appear the blower motor should be inoperable.

(Click on thumbnail below, then click on picture to zoom in, then zoom in with your browser to see the picture bigger in detail)


Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Ok I think I know what's up...the power wire going into the 40amp fuse (top right of diagram) is not even connected to the battery.

I forgot I had it strung through the fender well hole and forgot about it laying on the ground.

Don't make stupid mistakes like I did :doh:

Here's hoping that is the problem, checking tomorrow!

Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Fixed the blower...had no power from the battery, forgot to hook it up :oops:

In other news, completed the LEDS in the instrument cluster/door/dome lights/HVAC.

Here's a video of the HVAC lights. The issues in the past is uneven level of light along the HVAC, especially the mode buttons. Here, you can see how even the light distribution is. I didn't modify the lighting for the AC button (since I don't really use it, didn't care), and the fresh/recirc. button (I was growing tired, decided I'll mess with it another time). You can see the clock during the video, which gives you a "reference" on how bright these lights really are (since we all know how bright/dim the clock is stock). The fresh/recirc and AC button IS visible, and clearly lit, in person, just hard to catch it in the vid. The HVAC lighting is not overly bright, as it is about what you expect in the gauge cluster. Only thing I would change would to get dimmer LEDs for the button indicators.

I'll post more details tomorrow or Friday, or next week when I get back from LA.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8J7O0zc ... e=youtu.be

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Bryan
 

aus jd 2703

New member
very nice cluster! i did the same but blue and yeah very unevenly lit. also super bright LED's in the buttons makes for being blinded while driving. i swapper back to blue back ground with the green stock dull LED's in the buttons to bright otherwise.
if you know a way around this let me know.
 

MWP

New member
Superbright LEDs glaring at the corner of your eye while doing night-driving.... no thanks.
I would be changing those selection LEDs out, or using a different limiting resistor asap!
 

toayoztan

Moderator
aus jd 2703":bxabncvl said:
very nice cluster! i did the same but blue and yeah very unevenly lit. also super bright LED's in the buttons makes for being blinded while driving. i swapper back to blue back ground with the green stock dull LED's in the buttons to bright otherwise.
if you know a way around this let me know.

There is a way around this. Just buy less intense LEDs for the indicators. I bought the 0.7 lumen ones...they sell a 0.3 lumen one, which probably would be better. I may open it back up to replace these leds but also to get better lighting to the recirc/fresh button.

If not, just order some 3mm leds in the color you want from like radio shack, those are sure to be less intense (I know, b/c I originally used red from radioshack when I had all red).

EDIT: Just ordered the lower lumen LEDs and some other ones to help the lighting better behind the two buttons that are dim (AC and fresh/recirc). We shall see how this goes!

Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Just an update for anyone curious.

I changed out the LEDs to the lower lumen intensity, looks better, but still pretty bright so you could get away with leaving the stock ones in place, but I like it bright.

Also I got the AC button and the recirc button illuminated better, it's now all even and nice.


Finally got my SSMB8's installed, door panels on, and tested the door and rear speakers. Found out my nice pioneer I had (4 years old or so, that's been sitting on the shelf for a long time) went out. I thought it was my wiring, but I plugged in my stock unit and it works, along with the antenna. Time to look into another unit! I was thinking something cool with touch screen but it'll probably be a simple single DIN unit with MP3/Aux jack function as this is only a weekend warrior car, not my daily. Besides, I may use the empty DIN space (there's a stock pocket in there now which is pretty worthless) for mounting my turbo timer.

I'll post pics up of my progress soon. Right now I'm just working on fixing the sunroof motor, and the interior is pretty much done!


All that's left is custom hatch panel for the floor (since I'll have no spare tire anymore unless I pick up a wheel the same size) out of some thing composite material and custom carpet.

I'll also probably cut out a pretty good size access panel that will allow me access to the fuel pump w/o having to drop the fuel tank all the time. If I throw in non-hard lines connected to the fuel tank, swapping and messing with the fuel pump shouldn't be so bad anymore.


So much to do! I need this car wrapped up over the next couple of months.

In other good news, we are starting to look for a house...I think we found a good one. It's a 3 car garage, 31' wide and...26' deep 8) I guarantee you that is about the deepest you will find in any home unless it was specifically made that deep. The guy also paved the side of the house all cemeent that goes from the front to the back of the house, 13' wide. He's a car guy also, and has a car trailer and flat bed parked back there. Problem is...really no backyard but small strip of grass. With my daughter on the way, I'm going to have to consider the backyard too for her...there is a big front lawn for her though lol.

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503671_J01_65.jpg

503671_K01_65.jpg


Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Finally got the sunroof in, working, and aligned!!! Yay! :cry: (the biggest pain in my f***ing rear to get it all working...getting the motor gear correctly dialed sucked).

Bryan
 

Hotrodhendrix

New member
toayoztan":3u55szyg said:
Finally got the sunroof in, working, and aligned!!! Yay! :cry: (the biggest pain in my f***ing rear to get it all working...getting the motor gear correctly dialed sucked).

Bryan

yah I will have to do the same. I keep breaking things when I take them apart to clean them. Also have to install the new panel I covered. I have yet to get on dialed in correctly and soon will be on my 3rd.
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Hotrodhendrix":2yksas8s said:
toayoztan":2yksas8s said:
Finally got the sunroof in, working, and aligned!!! Yay! :cry: (the biggest pain in my f***ing rear to get it all working...getting the motor gear correctly dialed sucked).

Bryan

yah I will have to do the same. I keep breaking things when I take them apart to clean them. Also have to install the new panel I covered. I have yet to get on dialed in correctly and soon will be on my 3rd.

I made a seprate thread regarding my sunroof issue, but got it resolved. I plan to take pics of the process on re-zeroing it and installing it back in to ensure it goes right.

Bryan
 

Droptop93

New member
Bryan- I noticed in your first post you ordered the speed-source crossmember kit. Is this kit good or bad for a street driven Celica? I'm only asking because my bushings are all rotted out and can't seen to find a p/n for them or price for the OE replacements.
 

l0ch0w

New member
Speedsource mounts are pretty nice, ran them for awhile before mine went kaput awhile back. Definitely translates alot more vibration and noise into the car.

Droptop, you have a PM if you were interested in the actual part numbers.
-Andrew
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Yeah I don't think there's too many reviews for them. Honestly, I don't know how they will perform.

I imagine they should hold up. Like ^he said, due to them being solid metal bushings, they will translate more vibration, but that's something I don't care about right now. Coupled with SpeedSource inserts, things should hold stiff with a bit of vibration, but I don't expect there would be zero give/flex for engine movements (I don't anticipate the inserts to be THAT stiff heh).

Bryan
 

Droptop93

New member
Good to know. With the poly mount inserts I have and the possibility of these solid bushings I'd be more wary of breaking the metal than anything. Price I guess will be my deciding factor as for the most part I'm the only one who is ever in my car since the baby came last year. Thanks Bryan and chow chow
 

darthripley

Moderator
kirkosaurus over on mr2oc used to sell poly inserts for the motor mounts (not sure if he does anymore) but they used to be $50.
they just fit inside the existing motor mount kind of like a puzzle piece - the inserts come in 2 pieces for each mount - so you put them in then put the bolt through so they stay in place.
to me they are kind of a "halfway house" between the completely solid mounts/filling the mounts yourself.

we have them in the MR2 which is a daily driver & have them in the alltrac as well.
it vibrates slightly more but not to an untolerable level, not to a level i really notice anyways.
for me personally i won't do a solid metal rear diff cushion nor the solid metal cross member pieces either.
i'm getting to where i like comfort (yes, getting to be an old fart) & it's not going to make that big of a difference if something flexes a little more here & there - i'm not doing any level of serious competition.
 

Droptop93

New member
darthripley":rd9zuo6m said:
kirkosaurus over on mr2oc used to sell poly inserts for the motor mounts (not sure if he does anymore) but they used to be $50.
they just fit inside the existing motor mount kind of like a puzzle piece - the inserts come in 2 pieces for each mount - so you put them in then put the bolt through so they stay in place.
to me they are kind of a "halfway house" between the completely solid mounts/filling the mounts yourself.

we have them in the MR2 which is a daily driver & have them in the alltrac as well.
it vibrates slightly more but not to an untolerable level, not to a level i really notice anyways.
for me personally i won't do a solid metal rear diff cushion nor the solid metal cross member pieces either.
i'm getting to where i like comfort (yes, getting to be an old fart) & it's not going to make that big of a difference if something flexes a little more here & there - i'm not doing any level of serious competition.

Those are the inserts I have too. Can't wait to get everything installed.
 
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