3SGTE Rav4

jacubillo

New member
Ok, status update:
I have been removing parts from the engine while taking LOTS of pictures.

Timing belts:
[album]645[/album]

Removing the flexplate blots. Notice the wrench holding the flexplate steady. I used the pin as a support to jam it in place.
[album]646[/album]

Camgears removed. Main belt was removed as well:
[album]647[/album]

Current status of the engine: Hidraulic pump was also removed:
[album]650[/album]

Now I need to remove the tensioner pulley assembly but there is this weird nut holding it in place. It seems like I need an oversized (#10) allen key. Is there anything I'm missing to remove this?:
[album]648[/album]
[album]649[/album]
 

jacubillo

New member
Update

WaterPump is now out:
[album]652[/album]

The crank VR sensor and the timming gear:
[album]653[/album]

Removing the crank timming gear:
[album]655[/album]

My humble and current toolset:
[album]651[/album]

Question:
What's better?... to now remove parts from the bottom of the block (oilpan, main bearings, etc) or from the top (head, cams, etc)?
 

jacubillo

New member
Guess What?

I FINALLY got an engine stand :D

[album]656[/album]

Time to remove the head... I'm crossing my fingers hoping theres no internal damage on the cilinders or valves due to the damaged turbo metal pieces.
 

MWP

New member
So why are you doing this?
3SGTE's aren't exactly the best engine to learn on, they are rather temperamental :(

http://gt4.mwp.id.au/
Look at the ST205 manuals (not the ST215 manual, its not very good).
There are step-by-step guides in those to removing & rebuilding everything.
 

jacubillo

New member
MWP":2wl9deaf said:
So why are you doing this?
3SGTE's aren't exactly the best engine to learn on, they are rather temperamental :(

Mostly because that's the engine that fits in the car I have for this project and also because when I started I had NO idea what I was getting into.

Thanks for the link with documentation. It will come in handy.
 

MWP

New member
Pull off the head and dont go any further.
If you start pulling down the bottom end, or cams, etc you could get yourself into trouble pretty quickly.

If the bores arent scored badly, then you dont need to touch the bottom end.

Take the head to a dedicated head shop (not your local mechanic!), and have them deck it, and check valve clearances.
 

jacubillo

New member
Valve cover removed. Is it normal to get such a clean valvetrain?

[album]659[/album]
[album]660[/album]

Head taken off:

[album]661[/album]

Cylinder tops are not that clean... I'll get my mechanic to come home and take a look to hear what he has to say about this.

Opinions?

BTW, I read that the gen4 rods are a weak part on these engines. How weak? If I plan to get 300 to 350 HP am I safe with the stock gen4 rods or should I replace them with gen3 ones?
 

MWP

New member
Very clean!
Must be fairly low miles, and have had regular oil changes.

The carbon on the pistons is normal & no problem.

Yes, the rods are weaker, but wont be a problem at 300hp with a good tune.
Above 350 you are starting to push their strength though.
 
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