stupid question, but im cheap... can i get rid of this IAC?

ok so im pretty sure my IAC valve is bad. new one is over 200 bux... :shock:
WTF!?
correct me if im wrong (and yes ive used the 'search' option-nothing conclusive) but i think i should be able to run without.
ac/ps are gone. is it a bad idea or has someone got some insight and maybe a solution to my conundrum here?
as stated im cheap and im not gonna bother buying a used one cuz with my luck, im just gonna end up with the same problem in a week if i do.
my idea is to fab a block off plate and just cap off the water lines n see what happens.
the damn thing runs 'better' with the sensor unplugged anyways...
ideas?
criticism?
3sge tb?
:shrug:
i just want my car to run some day and this is bothering me. a lot.
on a side note the damn thing is running VERY rich, and my factory bs gauge sez im runnin full boost at idle while my autometer says everythings peachy... again WTF...
this thing hurts my brain :bangshead:
any help is GREATLY appreciated!!! :D
 
hmm seems i shoild lay my afm flat not sideways huh... :doh:
maybe i should just sell the poor fucker before i do any damage to it...
im so frustrated...
 

ALLensTRAC

New member
Unless you have converted to MAP using a standalone or piggyback you can not remove the IAC and plug the hole. The engine needs to get air at idle while still not allowing unmetered air to enter the intake after the AFM. If the problem is it won't idle then you can bump the idle screw as a temp fix. Definetly replace the IAC though and turn your AFM.
 

HaPpYfAcE

New member
ALLensTRAC":f9kxx4hz said:
Unless you have converted to MAP using a standalone or piggyback you can not remove the IAC and plug the hole. The engine needs to get air at idle while still not allowing unmetered air to enter the intake after the AFM. If the problem is it won't idle then you can bump the idle screw as a temp fix. Definetly replace the IAC though and turn your AFM.

Even on speed density, i don't think you could just plug the hole. The IACV is there so that when the throttle is closed, the engine can still breathe enough air to keep itself running. Speed density would just negate the need for the AFM.

Some ideas:
Verify proper AFM orientation.
Verify proper AFM operation.
Clean IACV.
Check factory boost gauge connections. I don't recall if it receives its data from the ECU or not, but if it does and the ECU thinks you're in boost all the time, that could also explain why you're running so rich.
 

ALLensTRAC

New member
I guess I didn't break it down enough. You can remove it with speed density and run something else (cheaper) or run it without the pipe attached with a filter on the end. Thanks for catching that I was thinking faster than I could type.
 

lumbercis

Moderator
I really don't mean this to sound harsh, but if the car isn't running, and a sensor is too expensive, I'd think about cutting your losses. It's only going to get worse from here on a 22 year old car that needs maintenance.

On the other hand, maybe it just needs some troubleshooting. How did you determine that the IACV was bad? Have you tried any test procedures from the BGB (it often has ways to "bench test" certain devices)? Did you try cleaning it out really well? Sometimes they can just get gummed up and not operate correctly until they're cleaned out.

Good luck!
 

gearhead313

New member
I've tried running without the IACV and it doesnt work, it'll just stall and be angry all the time. Definitely go through what happyface said. One time i had a problem with it and it was the connector at the iacv. never know.
 
Ok pulled iac cleaned it again n ripped out the cluster and theres a pink and silver wire that was clipped n stripped like it was hooked up to something... :shrug:
The wires comin outa the plug that goes in closest to the boost gauge. Could this be the missing piece to my puzzle!?
This is the only thing outa place that I can see.
All thats left is new iac n plugs.
:bangshead:
:D
Ok im good now.
 

Theman88b

New member
Had similar issues with mine(ST165). I removed my IAC just the other day and fabricated a block off plate. There should be an idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body to adjust idle speed. My has been way better off since I did this mod, less coolant and vacuum lines as well!
 
Hoooooraaaaaayyy shes alive again!
:D :D :D
Stupid mounting point on the fp resistor/relay bracket.
Wire brushed it, made a few mor grounds and even found a loos ground coming from the back of the intake manifold (from that stupid harness that runs between everything lol) hooked that up did a quick oilchange n she started right up!!!
Sounds even more beautiful than I remembered :oops:
Thanx everyone!!!
Now I jus gotta figure out why this damn blitz computer dont work.. :bangshead:
**oh yeah** I reconnected that pink n silver dotted wire I thought was affiliated wit the factory boost gauge n it jus doesn't do anything anymore :shrug: its better this way. No more overfuelling! However I wonder if ill get the opposite effect.....
Guess ill find out hay?
:eek:wned: got me good, car got me good...
 
Donno.. its wierd.. I got rid o the cruise when I brought er home in 08
Afaicr the gauge worked
Then started reading full boost as soon as the key hit on position sometime last year. As soon as i reconnected that wire the gauge dont move. Idk if its cuz I ousted the cruise or whats goin on. :shrug:
but I do know shes runnin again :D
I only wish I could afford a stand alone... id be in heaven lol
 
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