uprated viscous cupplings

BADNEWS

Member
Received mine. Thanks Mario!!

539750_10151271944136669_285330848_n.jpg
 

st185-sainz

New member
good to hear that you received the unit! Mika received his as well already!

I have one unit available to be shipped immediately as one costumer from Europe did not pay.

The following list is still active:
#1: underscore
#2: ALLensTRAC
#3: MWP
#4: mikahogl (friend)
#5: thespen

Are those people still interested? What time this year are you planing to get the money?

@thespen: you mentioned that you would like to get yours earlier this year?

thanks
mario
 

donk2k

New member
st185-sainz":28hhjrar said:
good to hear that you received the unit! Mika received his as well already!

I have one unit available to be shipped immediately as one costumer from Europe did not pay.

The following list is still active:
#1: underscore
#2: ALLensTRAC
#3: MWP
#4: mikahogl (friend)
#5: thespen

Are those people still interested? What time this year are you planing to get the money?

@thespen: you mentioned that you would like to get yours earlier this year?

thanks
mario

Price for that one shipped to norway?
And what stiffness is it set for?
Will I need to send you my std unit? (in that case how much time will I have to get it out and sent?)

-Espen-
 

bmt

New member
Just curious what are the torque settings on a unit if I still want to use the handbrake Mario?

I presume the 400nm is used for those that DONT want to do handbrake turns?

If you are one of the people that bought an uprated unit please let the rest of us know how good the unit works and the set up in your car, (Motor,box, power etc)

Cant tell from the picture, did they put a drain/fill screw in it? Or is that just a waste of time since everything has to be disassembled to clean all those plates?

Cheers!
 

st185-sainz

New member
bmt":3i8t0esd said:
Just curious what are the torque settings on a unit if I still want to use the handbrake Mario?

I presume the 400nm is used for those that DONT want to do handbrake turns?

If you are one of the people that bought an uprated unit please let the rest of us know how good the unit works and the set up in your car, (Motor,box, power etc)

Cant tell from the picture, did they put a drain/fill screw in it? Or is that just a waste of time since everything has to be disassembled to clean all those plates?

Cheers!

hi,

according to my manufacturer you can use the handbrake up to 380Nm without any problem. We are running 350Nm in our car and it still works fine!

I'm not sure if just a drain screw would be enough to get out the whole fluid. As I have seen people rebuilding the VW units they are unscrewing a whole flange.

If this rebuild and reset was done you should be able to do at between one or two WRC seasons with that part until it should be rebuilded again. I guess we are all no factory drivers and will not recognize if torque goes down a few percent after a few thousand kilometers in heavy rally use...

My setup is ST185CS with gen2 engine 300hp and 550Nm, close ratio straight cut dogbox, Cusco LSD rear diff.

mario
 

BADNEWS

Member
Showing people what this VC is like. Mine was rated at 400NM. Anyone have a rear clutch type LSD that could make a video doing the same thing but with a stock VC unit to compare? Or someone that has a 300NM unit from Mario just to see the difference.

http://youtu.be/OiVXBazmlWo
 

BADNEWS

Member
Here is a video where I test the freeplay in the differentials and etc. Then since I can use 2 hands and have the camera (aka my cell phone lol) on the ground, I try and get the Viscous Coupling to let the rear tires move with the front tires locked into position on the ground.

http://youtu.be/Xx1f6HNlGQQ

Here is a view from the other side as I try to get the Viscous Coupling to let the rear tires move with the front tires locked into position on the ground. I was testing this for myself to make sure the rear tires were in fact moving in the SAME direction which means the VC was moving rather than the clutch discs in the rear lsd giving way and the tires would of been moving in opposite direction.

http://youtu.be/HNkWvblxk6I
 

phattyduck

New member
I assume those tests are all done with the trans in neutral? If so, you are a pretty tight setup.

It would be pretty much impossible to do the same tests with an open or torsen rear diff. I suppose you could work something with just the front end of the car off the ground and some drag on the front wheel? Not sure...

-Charlie
 

BADNEWS

Member
phattyduck":1ekm42jv said:
I assume those tests are all done with the trans in neutral? If so, you are a pretty tight setup.

Yes the car was in neutral with the E-Brake off.

phattyduck":1ekm42jv said:
It would be pretty much impossible to do the same tests with an open or torsen rear diff. I suppose you could work something with just the front end of the car off the ground and some drag on the front wheel?

Yes you need a rear clutch type lsd to do a test like I just did. If you put the rear end down and try to spin the front wheels it will just spin the other front wheel in the opposite direction due to the front diff being open. I really want someone that has a clutch type TRD or Cusco rear lsd with a stock VC unit to video themselves as they try to reenact the same test I just did.

My setup is extremely tight though. To give an example. When I back down my driveway and turn the wheels hard in one direction in order to pull into the street. Usually in a factory car you would let off the throttle and coast back a couple feet when you put the clutch in, in order to put it in first gear while you coast. Well the instant I put the clutch in, I stop instantly and don't coast any distance at all. I can feel all the binding in the driveline. This is also true with tight U turns when going forward. But in normal everyday driving I don't notice anything.

With the steering wheel straight you have about 1.33 turns in each direction till it locks out. I get about 3/4 to 1 full turn on the steering wheel before I start to feel it binding. But that last .33 or so of the turn on the steering wheel you HAVE to use the throttle to even move the car. I can hear my tires on the pavement sliding and etc rather than just rolling smoothly. A friend was behind me one time as I took a sharp turn from a parking lot onto a street. He told me that he saw my rear end slide out to the side in order to make the turn rather than the tire roll like a normal car.

My car is pretty extreme and for the little I drive it, I like the setup. But if this was a car that gets driven more than 3,000 miles a year, I would be wanting to take my VC out for a stock to less powerful one and changing my Cusco discs around to free everything up. (The Cusco is adjustable with how you stack the discs in it and I have it set to the harshest engagement)
 
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