1967 Saab Alltrac. . . aka, The Slaab

Sluice Box Hero

New member
if i bring the body down any more the rear strut towers will be into the rear windows. the saab body is about 4" taller than the trac was. at the moment the floor is in the same place as it was in the saab. saabs are known for their very upright seating position. i will be raising the seats up 6-8 inches from where they were in the trac.

believe it or not, its not horrible, the saab window is about 6" shorter, but the base of the window is about 6" higher up than the trac, so it all works out, if the seats are mounted a bit higher.

i was able to trim some more front the front a pillars on the trac chassis so that the saab fender clears now, but i need to reenforce the door jamb so the saab door doesnt pull on the jamb so badly. i was able to hang the door though.
 

WarTowels

Active member
It appears the all-trac is a decent bit wider in the front are you going to need "wide body" fenders / how do you plan to solve?

-Towels
 

Sluice Box Hero

New member
been working on getting the doors hung and working properly. today will be getting the cowl in place and possibly weld up the door sills.

pics later.
 

Sluice Box Hero

New member
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trimmed up the front some and hung the fenders/grill/hood just for fun. it got hot out, so im taking a break. ill probably build some inner fenders and a cowl a little later when it cools off.

debating on removing the stock gas tank so i can build a diffuser and just dropping a fuel cell in the trunk, or just leaving everything the way it is and just boxing in the rear around the tank.
 

underscore

Well-known member
WarTowels":2x7pg7z2 said:
Obviously it's your project... but I call it the Saabtrac. =)

I keep reading the name as "Sallb" (pronounced Sawl-b). But then that just sounds like a redneck trying to say Saab.
 

Sluice Box Hero

New member
well, i worked on the front of the car today and as i suspected, the frame horns were pushed to one side by about 1.5", so its getting a tube front end. its just so easy to cut, cap, and tube everything at this point i figured why not. so i started by removing the radiator and start taking the motor mounts out and they all turned in to several pieces and fell apart so i determined this to be a good time to add some beef to the motor mounts. by going poly not only will it hold the engine better, but it will help with chassis twist and what not in the front by making the engine/tranny more of a structural member.

pics show my process for the motor mount. i can buy these bushings for $15 a piece, this bushing is 2.5" total width, with a stepped width of 2", the minor diameter is 1.5" and the major is 2", they come with sleeves and use a 9/16 bolt. i used a 1.75x.120 piece of DOM tubing 2" long for the outer sleeve (2x.250 DOM would work just as well or better, but i didnt have any laying around at the moment). so what i did was use my sawzall to cut a slit in the stock bushing and punch out the rubber/metal bushing leaving me the housing that bolts to the engine, or in this case the crossmember. from there i found a hole saw that had an ID the same as the ID of the mount housing and cut 2 .250 circles. then grabbed another hole saw with a 1.75 OD, clamped my circles in the vise and cut 1.75" holes in those so i ended up with 2 rings of sorts. then i pressed the rings onto the tubing, then pressed that into the housing and welded her up. all this took about 45 minutes. so for $30 i will be able to build $100 worth of engine crossmember mounts. i also have pressed the bushings out of the 2 side mounts and will be doing the same thing to those mounts as well.

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also, since i cut the front of the frame off i had to cap the remaining frame and strengthen it for the tubing, so i cut out some .120 plate and welded it up to the strut tower and capped the frame. hopefully this weekend ill have the other side done and the front lower tube in and connected to the front of the engine crossmember.

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also talked to the local MegaSquirt guy and hes convinced me to go with a MS2 kit. should wake this engine up a little and be super easy and simple. plus, he knows how to tune and use all the software, so i have a local trouble shooter, which is nice.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
Very nice work. Also, like the MS idea, but why not MS3? That way you have more control(IO) and a knock board available?

Love the work.
 

Sluice Box Hero

New member
worked a little more today. im going to have to trim the grill and fenders to fit the tube work, but i have an idea that will work with the fender flare and front rollpan/bumper.

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Sluice Box Hero

New member
not much lately. lots of family gatherings this time of year and money to be spent. so im kinda just letting it sit for a little while. sorry.
 
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