1991 Corolla All-Trac / The 3SGTE swap no one does
- Thread starter mk1spyder
- Start date
Ugh... so much wrong in what you've said.
So what is the wiring is a little more complex. You set it up once and never touch it again. Its worth it for the far better ECU the ST215 runs.
Of course the trans does work with cable driven speedos. Just use the speedo drive off your old trans. There is one single bolt that needs to be undone to move it over.
The 215 trans is identical to the 185 trans in every other way.
No.
Blocks cracking is caused by defects, and weak areas in the block. You cant tune that out other than by reducing power.
Rods breaking in gen4's is rare, and is linked to bad tunes and accidental overboosting.
No! Its the same as the gen3.
Its only a little higher, so unless you are running a 20yr old ECU (ie, Microtech) or have an incompetent tuner, its no problem.
Gen3 cams fit the gen4, with a small easy mod (ive done it).
The ST215 is a mid-luxury wagon. Its not a sports car.
The engine was built to suit it. The rods are big part of that (lower rotational mass = less horrible 4cyl vibrations).
Remember, stock, it still is more powerful than a stock 205 engine, even when winding up the boost to boost-cut.
mk1spyder":3us2xgnb said:
So what is the wiring is a little more complex. You set it up once and never touch it again. Its worth it for the far better ECU the ST215 runs.
Of course the trans does work with cable driven speedos. Just use the speedo drive off your old trans. There is one single bolt that needs to be undone to move it over.
The 215 trans is identical to the 185 trans in every other way.
No.
Blocks cracking is caused by defects, and weak areas in the block. You cant tune that out other than by reducing power.
Rods breaking in gen4's is rare, and is linked to bad tunes and accidental overboosting.
No! Its the same as the gen3.
Its only a little higher, so unless you are running a 20yr old ECU (ie, Microtech) or have an incompetent tuner, its no problem.
Gen3 cams fit the gen4, with a small easy mod (ive done it).
The ST215 is a mid-luxury wagon. Its not a sports car.
The engine was built to suit it. The rods are big part of that (lower rotational mass = less horrible 4cyl vibrations).
Remember, stock, it still is more powerful than a stock 205 engine, even when winding up the boost to boost-cut.
Uh no, the ST215 trans does not have the internal gear drive to move the cable adapter like the st205 does. Look up the monkey wrench racing rav4.
If you swap to gen3 cams you lose the coil on plug ignition so wtf is the point lol. You could swap just the exhaust cam.
The exhaust ports on the gen4 are bigger than gen3, so yes you could remove the 8th stud and run a gen3 manifold IF you could machine out the flange enough to match the bigger ports.
The wiring being much more complex also means the ecu is too different from the old obd1 gauges and tach to run them properly plus the fact that it is cop ignition.
All i'm saying is that it is a harder more expensive swap, that is more expensive to modify, and comes with weak ass rods which i'm not sure if you are aware are kind of important lol. How much more power are they rated for like 20hp? Woopty doo, all 20 of which can be attributed to the .5 Bump in compression, ignition and intake manifold.
Do me a favor, go put a st215 in a car and lets race, stock turbo.
If you swap to gen3 cams you lose the coil on plug ignition so wtf is the point lol. You could swap just the exhaust cam.
The exhaust ports on the gen4 are bigger than gen3, so yes you could remove the 8th stud and run a gen3 manifold IF you could machine out the flange enough to match the bigger ports.
The wiring being much more complex also means the ecu is too different from the old obd1 gauges and tach to run them properly plus the fact that it is cop ignition.
All i'm saying is that it is a harder more expensive swap, that is more expensive to modify, and comes with weak ass rods which i'm not sure if you are aware are kind of important lol. How much more power are they rated for like 20hp? Woopty doo, all 20 of which can be attributed to the .5 Bump in compression, ignition and intake manifold.
Do me a favor, go put a st215 in a car and lets race, stock turbo.
It's not worth arguing with someone who has never had one of these engines. But if your ever in my neck of the woods ill take you for a ride in my st215 powered alltrac. I do not see the point of changing the the turbo on the st215 engine.
And FYI all that's needed to put cams in a st215 is have the end of the intake cam tapped for a bolt to put the trigger on. Obviously you would have to make sure it's in the right place.
And FYI all that's needed to put cams in a st215 is have the end of the intake cam tapped for a bolt to put the trigger on. Obviously you would have to make sure it's in the right place.
mk1spyder":1blfacik said:
Ah really?
Hm, that does makes things a little more difficult then.
You just bolt the sensor arm to the end of the gen3 cams.
For example (my engine):
Gen3 exhaust gasket on a gen4 head (again, my engine):
Gen3 & gen4 ports are the same size.
Stock 205 engine with the ct20b at 16psi VS stock 215 engine with ct15a at 16psi.
Youll find the 215 engine will win quite comfortably.
underscore
Well-known member
How bout y'all quit your whining about gens and let the guy build his car...
Oh no hard feelings I love an intelligent convo. Everyone has their opinions, and I think the st215 is more hassle than its worth.
Got the GSC S1 gen3 cams in today, stole the shims off another head so i'd have enough to reshim this head, doing that tomorrow but they are all cleaned lubed and ready for measurements.
I'm going to need new cam seals are they the same as gen2? How about the distributor o-ring?
Got the GSC S1 gen3 cams in today, stole the shims off another head so i'd have enough to reshim this head, doing that tomorrow but they are all cleaned lubed and ready for measurements.
I'm going to need new cam seals are they the same as gen2? How about the distributor o-ring?
Berk 3" downpipe on. I must say the sheetmetal alignment inside the bellmouth is crap, they literally have sheetmetal overlapping sheetmetal which will cause alot of turbulence and eddies, adds crevices and trays for stuff to collect in. Not what I paid for, shaved the edges down before installing.
Attachments
You can see in the pics that the rear driveshaft and camry cv axles are a direct bolt in. Also you can see the HKS cam gears/belt + GSC cams being degreed properly. Also where the intercooler is going to go with the shaker scoop through the hood, the turbo intake will come up and over the intercooler into the scoop to get some uber fresh air and water mist injection when its raining lol.
Here's the only problems i've run into. 1 of the control arm bracket bolts stripped going back in (rusted threads). Tapped it and put a course thread bolt in, but i'm going to weld it in place as well just to be sure as this thing needs to hold down 3x the power it was meant to.
Secondly the CV axle being the shortest option of the donor cars at 20" seems to be too long. It doesn't bind but it is compressed in too much for my liking. I haven't done the passenger side yet but I am hoping it intalls extended a bit because I think my issue is just that the engine needs to be slid towards the passenger side a little, which is easy since all the factory holes are slotted for adjustment and the 4th final mount has yet to be made so it can go whereever. Worst case scenario I get some custom axle shafts made down the road if I can't correct by sliding the engine and I grenade an inner CV (unlikely as is).
I think the engine just needs to be slid over because the track width of the corolla is 56.7" and the 2.5L Camry/ST165 Celica is 57.9" which should only make me 0.6" tighter on each CV axle. Currently it is sitting a good 1.5" over compressed. Probably going to need to put a dent into the passenger strut tower to clear the engine mount.
Here's the only problems i've run into. 1 of the control arm bracket bolts stripped going back in (rusted threads). Tapped it and put a course thread bolt in, but i'm going to weld it in place as well just to be sure as this thing needs to hold down 3x the power it was meant to.
Secondly the CV axle being the shortest option of the donor cars at 20" seems to be too long. It doesn't bind but it is compressed in too much for my liking. I haven't done the passenger side yet but I am hoping it intalls extended a bit because I think my issue is just that the engine needs to be slid towards the passenger side a little, which is easy since all the factory holes are slotted for adjustment and the 4th final mount has yet to be made so it can go whereever. Worst case scenario I get some custom axle shafts made down the road if I can't correct by sliding the engine and I grenade an inner CV (unlikely as is).
I think the engine just needs to be slid over because the track width of the corolla is 56.7" and the 2.5L Camry/ST165 Celica is 57.9" which should only make me 0.6" tighter on each CV axle. Currently it is sitting a good 1.5" over compressed. Probably going to need to put a dent into the passenger strut tower to clear the engine mount.
UtahSleeper
Active member
Nice progress and damn thats a tight fit. Good work.
Well its in and done, go to start it, nothing. I've got fuel but no spark. Code 14 no IGF signal. Tested everything, ECU is good, tried 2nd ignitor no change. Tweak'd fucked up this harness and they got rid of the intercooler pump connector so I can't do anything about losing code 54 unless I cut open the hearness, Tweak sucks.
They do hundreds upon hundreds of harnesses. It's possible that a handful of calls came in when they were doing yours and something got missed.
Call them or shoot them an email and talk to them about it before you start badmouthing them.
Cool build, man. I saw a 'Rolla All-Trac wagon in a salvage yard some time ago, I was sorely tempted to buy it and build it as a track/rally car but I've got no money these days (or any days previous. c'est la vie)
Call them or shoot them an email and talk to them about it before you start badmouthing them.
Cool build, man. I saw a 'Rolla All-Trac wagon in a salvage yard some time ago, I was sorely tempted to buy it and build it as a track/rally car but I've got no money these days (or any days previous. c'est la vie)
Already talked to them. They chopped the connector for the IC pump without thinking about the fact that I need to get to those wires to remove code 54. Thought being the experts they are they'd know that when I told them I wasn't running the water/air cooler hence why they chopped the connector. So now I have to tap in at the ECU side of the wires.
The issue with no spark after exhausting every other option turns out to be corrosion inside the ECU connector pins. No way it got wet when I had it since it stayed in a dry garage inside a box the entire time, must have happened when it sat in a JDM port forever. But the fact that they missed this makes me wonder why I paid $600+ for them to join 2 harnesses together and electrical tape the blank out of it.
Either way I talked to Cam and they are going to let me pay for 3 new connector housings and re-crimp the ECU pins myself. So kind of them.
The issue with no spark after exhausting every other option turns out to be corrosion inside the ECU connector pins. No way it got wet when I had it since it stayed in a dry garage inside a box the entire time, must have happened when it sat in a JDM port forever. But the fact that they missed this makes me wonder why I paid $600+ for them to join 2 harnesses together and electrical tape the blank out of it.
Either way I talked to Cam and they are going to let me pay for 3 new connector housings and re-crimp the ECU pins myself. So kind of them.
UtahSleeper
Active member
So, any new pics? Running yet?
UtahSleeper
Active member
DAMN!!!! Good work!!