1988 Alltrac - Fiona - Running and doing just fine

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UtahSleeper

Active member
jaydog82":1tytii5y said:
ya you should be ok, make sure you check the rod gernals and crank for scoring also remember what piston went were and if you remove the crank stand it on end or leave it in the block for storage.
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I currently have everything taken apart and organized in a box. Been sitting for a bit as I painted and did some work to my corolla.

Small update and bumping my thread to make it easier to get back to lol.

Should be moving her back into the garage this week and start the process of engine removal soon. Also hope to post a video of the engine noise just to confirm rod knock.
 
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UtahSleeper

Active member
Well, she has made it into the garage.

Here is a video displaying what I believe to be rod knock lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueGZxFteoeg&feature=youtu.be

And here is where she sits waiting for me to have the balls to pull the engine.
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UtahSleeper

Active member
Not sure. I figured I would go out the bottom since everyone seems to say its easiest. This will all be new to me and I plan on searching for steps to make it easier.
 
88gt4DE

88gt4DE

Active member
I have done in and out the top every time. Its not that bad if you have a load leveler and take the right stuff off and out of the way ... I didn't want to chance messing up something trying to jack it to the sky to get it out from under the car. I can give ya pointers if you change yer mind but don't attempt without the leveler ...
 
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MrMcQuacker

New member
I can say opposite. I have drop my motor from top and from the bot. Between the 2 I would say going from bot is so much easier. Just get the leveler for sure it will help a lot. Make sure you disconnect everything attached to the motor off the chassis. Attach the leveler on the correct hooks and give it some tension. Put a tire or a crate or even those home depot moving things :). Put it underneath nicely and evenly distribute the weight, make sure its even. unbolt the motor mounts and from that point you should be able to slowly drop the motor below. dropping the motor you have to take off the mid pipe. Above you don't but I still say its easier :). Besides having the motor floating above the engine bay so high makes me feel :| . I know I skipped a few steps but assuming once you start working on it, you will see what I mean. There are a few things like the cross members and etc to take out also before hand.

I am happy you are restoring a st165 :). Id take pics of mine but I don't feel like its picture worthy at all yet besides the engine bay maybe :). If I remember to I will post a Pic of my engine bay on this site for the first time :). Why not its a st205 :smokes:
 
D

Dracov

Member
This is the same point where I've been stuck at. Everything's ready to go to drop the engine...just been way too lazy to actually do it. :)
 
U

UtahSleeper

Active member
It goes lol. Need to upload some new pics. Engine has been removed from the car and need to remove the flywheel before I can get it on the engine stand and see where it started knocking.

Will try and do that today.
 
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UtahSleeper

Active member
Here are some random pics to show that I have accomplished a little bit since the last update.

The empty engine bay.
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General pic of her current progress.
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The engine before any real dismantling happened.
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Inside the exhaust port.
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Goodies for future use. I need to learn to weld cause my Alltrac(Fiona) and Corolla(Milla) need some exhaust work.
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Dismantling in progress.
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A bunch of the parts.
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More dismantling.
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And the trans, all by its self.
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My next plan is to remove the clutch and flywheel, check their condition, and then get the engine on the stand for the full tear down to see where the knock started.

Hoping I have time this week or weekend to do that.
 
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UtahSleeper

Active member
Unfortunately, yea lol. One of the PO's did a poor rebuild and I am out to do it right. This car needs to see consistent drive time. From what I know if it's history, it has seen maybe a 100 miles in the last 4 to 5 years.
 
88gt4DE

88gt4DE

Active member
UtahSleeper":2we4o8f8 said:
Unfortunately, yea lol. One of the PO's did a poor rebuild and I am out to do it right. This car needs to see consistent drive time. From what I know if it's history, it has seen maybe a 100 miles in the last 4 to 5 years.
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Sounds familiar ... just a thought but consider upgrading yer turbo feed and return while yer out. Those flex feeds are prone to leak but you prol know that already.
 
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UtahSleeper

Active member
88gt4DE":1qj9tr15 said:
UtahSleeper":1qj9tr15 said:
Unfortunately, yea lol. One of the PO's did a poor rebuild and I am out to do it right. This car needs to see consistent drive time. From what I know if it's history, it has seen maybe a 100 miles in the last 4 to 5 years.
Click to expand...


Sounds familiar ... just a thought but consider upgrading yer turbo feed and return while yer out. Those flew feeds are prone to leak but you prol know that already.
Click to expand...

Yea, I was planning on replacing it. After I dismantle and see what the rods/pistons and block condition is I am going to make a list of items to buy and then probably ask others for what else I should do.
 
88gt4DE

88gt4DE

Active member
Dump the butterfly screws and flaps on the TVIS ... those suckers killed me on my nice fresh 6,000 rebuild
 
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UtahSleeper

Active member
88gt4DE":11pwqgh9 said:
Dump the butterfly screws and flaps on the TVIS ... those suckers killed me on my nice fresh 6,000 rebuild
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Yea, I read that. They will be gone. I have a couple of the plates holding the valves that I am going to try and use to remove the valves and rod going through it.
 
88gt4DE

88gt4DE

Active member
UtahSleeper":1mimzamp said:
88gt4DE":1mimzamp said:
Dump the butterfly screws and flaps on the TVIS ... those suckers killed me on my nice fresh 6,000 rebuild
Click to expand...

Yea, I read that. They will be gone. I have a couple of the plates holding the valves that I am going to try and use to remove the valves and rod going through it.
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I left the rod. It aint hurting anything ....
 
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UtahSleeper

Active member
Well, I dismantled more and here is what I saw.

The flywheel in all its glory lol. Still see the resurfacing marks.
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The clutch. One of the PO's told me it had some performance clutch in it. Not really sure how to tell. Also, does this appear to still have enough meat to even consider reusing?
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The motor on the stand.........SO EXCITING!!!
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Chunks in the oil screen. Always a sign of a motor in top shape :)
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Here is the overall motor. I tried to move all 4 connecting rods at the crank and all 4 move slightly. I thought normally when you have a rod issue(rod knock), it's 1 rod... Assuming that the belief that the rods should have no play at the crank.
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Lots of sludge and debris in the oil pan.
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The head, which looks to be in great shape.
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I assume this is a cam part number(88360).
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And a question. I have a head from a spare motor and the head that came off my alltrac. The cams have one difference on the surface. The alltrac head has protruded metal around the cam at the back of both cams. The other head has a a metal notch protruded in the same area. Are they the same cams or are they something else?

Alltrac head:
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Spare head:
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MWP

New member
UtahSleeper":2xh1h3k4 said:
And a question. I have a head from a spare motor and the head that came off my alltrac. The cams have one difference on the surface. The alltrac head has protruded metal around the cam at the back of both cams. The other head has a a metal notch protruded in the same area. Are they the same cams or are they something else?
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Take a photo. Its hard to work out what you are describing.
... it almost sounds like you are describing the gen4 cams though.
 
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