Jeff's 1989 Black ST165

sinerasis

New member
Spent today cleaning out the tank. I used The Works toilet cleaner after reading about it online. Inside looked great after, but it will literally rust back before your eyes after it gets so clean. Then I did the POR15 3 part thing and its looking almost new inside. Really happy with this, its a ton of work though and basically took all day. Its drying the sealant now... 96 hours and it'll be ready for gas.

Got a new fuel pump and filter. The hanger cleaned up great too.

Then I sat in the drivers seat making turbo noised for an hour or so. I need to get the rotating switch thing in the steering wheel wired back up, and order some random screws and stuff.

The clutch pedal is on the floor and doesn't seem to be doing anything. That'll be the next job I think. Topped off the fluid and worked the pedal to see if it'd come back but nothing yet.

Here's the gas tank before I put the sealant in.
IMG_20130518_183842_zpsac78ce30.jpg
 

sinerasis

New member
I put the gas tank back together and installed it. Includes new pump and filter. I cleaned up the hanger and coated it in POR 15. I did this to all the metal pieces in the tank.
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I changed the oil, oil filter and spark plugs. Poured a little oil in the cylinders to hopefully soak the rings. Waited overnight and cranked the engine. Turns over ok, didn't start. Started slow and speed up once things got moving and lubricated. No crazy noises or anything, I'm hopeful it'll fire once I figure out once going on with the computer.

Getting a 1-1 code from the diagnostic port. "Momentary loss of power to ECU", investigating this is my new project.

Went through most of the electrical things. New list of non-working things:

Drivers headlight out
Passenger foglight out
Drivers power mirror won't adjust from console control
Sunroof doesn't open, motor struggles and makes noise
Power locks are acting up, make clicking noise but don't actually do anything
Antenna doesn't go up/down
Dash cluster has at least 1 backlight out, dark in center section
Left turn indicator doesn't blink in dash
Lumbar control doesn't work

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Otherwise everything seemed to be working. Both windows go up and down, windshield wipers work, headlights both flip up and down, all blinkers and brake lights work. Radio works, cigarette lighter works. Fan motor works although the panel lights are doing the "flashing" so I'll probably need to investigate the heater control as I remember it being a bitch from my last car.

Glove box is locked and my key doesn't open it. There's something in there, probably just the owners manual, but I'm going to have to figure out a way to open it.
 

88gt4DE

Active member
sinerasis":3v5au3yk said:
Still sitting in the driveway, broken down, got the first person asking if I'd sell it...

Nope. :D

Ahhh the old rusty tank. Got any finish shots with the POR15 ? Nobody asks to buy mine , at least at work ... I have one guy that has been with Toyota so long that he use to do warranty work on them ! LOL
 

sinerasis

New member
I completely forgot to take any pictures of the tank after the sealant cured and it's installed with gas in it now. The fuel pump hanger I posted earlier gives a good idea though, the entire inside of the tank is that nice shiny silver. It cures really hard and has kind of a glass look and feel to it. It turned out pretty well I think, but I suppose only time will tell if it keeps the rust away.
 

sinerasis

New member
Got her running this morning for the first time in 10? years. Gotta loud tick/knock video to come when I charge my phone.

Gonna start cracking beers.
 

sinerasis

New member
Getting new diagnostic codes now...

41
52
54

Probably going to be on the hunt for a throttle position sensor, ic pump... Knock sensor is probably working judging from the noises I'm getting.
 

brutekiller787

New member
a new intercooler pump for a code 54, did you check coolant level, or the wires coming from the intercooler first? and a code 52 does not mean your knock sensor is faulty, it means there is a circuit failure. i would start looking at other things before just throwing parts at it. including tps
 

sinerasis

New member
Yeah intercooler is full. Wires are present and connected, but I haven't taken a meter to them yet.

I'll have to research the knock sensor. Would I not get a code if the engine is knocking? Or only if there's something wrong with the sensor?

After I got it started the first time the idle smoothed out, maybe I should just reset codes and see what comes back. Maybe tps was complaining while it was cranking on it before.
 

Awesome-Trac

New member
sinerasis":7nu0wrwm said:
Yeah intercooler is full. Wires are present and connected, but I haven't taken a meter to them yet.

I'll have to research the knock sensor. Would I not get a code if the engine is knocking? Or only if there's something wrong with the sensor?

After I got it started the first time the idle smoothed out, maybe I should just reset codes and see what comes back. Maybe tps was complaining while it was cranking on it before.


my old 165 had a terrible knock but yet never go that code
 

brutekiller787

New member
knock control is dealt with behind the curtains of the ecu. a fault code is only tripped when the ecu sees something other than what it wants to see, and what it believes it should see from the knock sensor. a short to ground, the most common, would cause the ecu to see nothing, setting a code 52. a faulty knock sensor would also set the code, however, as long as the ecu is seeing something, the code is not set. i have a gm knock sensor from a 2.2 sunfire and i do not have a code 52.
 

sinerasis

New member
Took time today to pull the oil pan and have a looksie.

When in doubt... RTV the shit out of it... :shrug:
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I really don't know why this much silicone crap was deemed necessary... oh well it's all gone now. It was simply splooged on top of a torn up OEM cork gasket. :nono:
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Well, there's your problem!
http://youtu.be/qptiFANmvTI

#1 rod bearing is in very bad shape.

Here's what it looked like right after I got it out... it has seen better days for sure:
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#4 had a tiny bit of play, here's a comparison that really shows had bad #1 is:
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They're all getting replaced obviously. I need to get a caliper to measure the crank though.

Also took off the intake to look at the turbo. It's got a couple chips, but no play at all. I picked up a Supra CT26 that I'm thinking of upgrading, so hopefully I can use the existing turbo until that gets done (way down the line).
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sinerasis

New member
There are good weekends and bad weekends...

I started pulling the engine on Saturday. I had the cross members out already so it was mostly just disconnecting wires and hoses from the top. I pressure washed the cross members also. They're nice and clean now.

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I'm fairly sure the AC is destroyed in this car. The condenser looks like crap and one of the hard lines is broken. I'm betting the only part of the system that is any good is the compressor. I need to decide if I want to keep AC or not. I'm very on the fence about that. Keeping it keeps the car factory and will be expensive I'm sure, but removing makes it simpler. If I go simple I'll probably want to do simple other places too... thinking on it for the time being.

The radiator will need to be replaced. Top cap is super brittle.

Noticed the passenger motor mount is held in by two bolts wedged into either side. Yay for crawling around underneath this thing! :withstupid:

Realized when I cleaned out the spare tire well over a year ago didn't think and put the plugs back in so half way through the day I found the well full of water and wet carpet. Got a leak somewhere. I cleaned it up (again) and made a point to leave the plugs out like I should have done last time. I got everything dried out with the good weather. Need to research all the seals in the back. Bumping this up the priority list.

I got the engine to the point where I was working to get the axles out when I realized I didn't have my hex bit drivers so I called it quits for the day. Kinda needed to walk away at that point.

Worked on tearing down the extra bottom end I got from Xander_42. The crank looks good, so I think I can bypass getting a crank machined. Yay! Just need to order new bearings and I think I'll have the bottom end in good shape.
 
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