700AWHP or Bust

C-dubb

New member
Hope the new assembly holds up good! cant wait to see dyno numbers when you get your turbo back. Mines in but still working out time to make it to the dyno...kind of scared because there has been some little issue the last two visits. lets hope they're all fixed and we can see full potential of the turbo!
 

BADNEWS

Member
Well I got slicks for the car. Just finished fixing 2nd gear and got the trans all back together. Now I need to get the motor and trans back into the car.

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MWP

New member
Its drivetrain breakin' time!! :lol:
I wonder how well it'll hold up with all that extra grip.

Whats the size of those slicks (or the std equiv size)? They are huge.
 

BADNEWS

Member
Quick update. Here is a video of my progress so far this year. I am stuck till I get my turbo back from Forced Performance. They have had it since Feb 18th and are still not done with it. Going to call today if I have time and see if I can get a estimation on time. I was originally quoted 4-6 weeks and today is 5 1/2 weeks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqsEAHQXHIA
 

BADNEWS

Member
https://youtu.be/-Pc_R6QCF_c

Above is a link to a complete video of my motor install and the first start after. IF you saw my previous video start this one at the 7:50 mark. I got the car running on May 2nd.

Today May 3rd I went driving around and tested out the bigger compressor wheel. I found it is laggier that I am not happy about. It has increased lag 300rpm. Doesn't sound huge but man can you feel the difference! The VE of my motor is so similar I haven't made any adjustments to the fuel table at all. Since the tune was so close I was able to take the boost up very fast. With the controller off I made a base boost of 23psi. All tested in 2nd gear here is what my duty cycle equaled in boost.

0=23psi
45=25psi
65=30psi
80=34.5psi
99=40psi

Below is the log of my 2nd gear pull at 40psi. Previously on the GT4088R the most I made in 2nd gear was 35psi setup like this. I switched the solenoid setup and got 36psi in 2nd gear which I may try to see if I can get into the mid 40's for boost.

41psi_zpshdmrtux1.jpg
 

BADNEWS

Member
The past month or two has snowballed into finding things wrong with my motor. I'll start at the beginning:

I upgraded my turbo this winter. I had a Garrett GT4088R and sent it out to Forced Performance to change the compressor wheel to their Billet HTZ94 wheel. Now I call my turbo a FP HTZ4094R. In Precision terms it is now a 6768 turbo. Well I was out this spring checking my tune with it and seeing what boost I could make with it (GT4088R maxed out at 37psi). In 2nd gear I was able to get over 40psi. So then I was going to try 3rd gear pulls to test the A/F ratio. My first time doing a 3rd gear pull at or above 30psi I "lifted my head." So I needed to get a new headgasket.

I pulled my head off and some of the nuts felt loose. I talked with various people and found it is common for the ARP washer to embed into the head from a lot of torque like 70+ft/lbs when the motor gets warm and the aluminum gets pliable. So Marius told me a trick the 2JZ guys do which is use the Stock Toyota washer cause it's bigger. So I ordered some and measured them. (pics below) I did more talking around and found that HUX Racing makes chromoly step washers that you need to machine your head for. That is even a better fix but I didn't want to send my head in for just that so I was going to try just the stock washers.

I then proceeded to double checked my valve lash right before putting the head on and I found that instead of being .010" for exhaust they were like .005". Intake had a similar problem. Now I had to take my head into the machine shop! They pulled it apart and all my valves were "cupping." Also they informed me that all the exhaust valves were bent too! Not sure if you guys remember my head gasket thickness problem before. But at TDC I wanted the piston to be .004" in the hole and it ended up being .007" out of the block. So I debated between running the standard .040" (10:1) or ordering a custom .051"(9.7:1). I went for the .040" and not sure if that caused the bent valves yet. Machine shop needs to clay the motor and check still. (found exhaust=.250" intake=.290" so that is plenty of clearance) More on the Head gasket thickness later. But the cupping of the valves is a huge sign of valve float. I researched a bunch and found that a rough rule to go by is you need the seat pressure of your valve springs on a tappet style valvetrain (which is what the 3S is) double the boost pressure you plan of running. My Ferrea had a rated seat pressure of 65lbs. They are over 10 years old so they're probably worn and lost some of their tension. I was told it wouldn't be shocking to have a seat pressure of like 55lbs now from age/wear. And I was running 35+psi of boost. I now ordered new SuperTech valves and got the better Inconel exhaust ones. Needed new GSC exhaust bronze valve guides and also ordered their valve seals. They are making me a Beehive kit that has a seat pressure of between 80-85lbs of seat pressure.

Since I needed all this head work done I ordered the Hux Racing step washers and am having those installed also. Right now my order from GSC has been placed a week ago and they still haven't shipped it. Not sure how long this will take from them to get the spring/retainer kit together because it is not a standard kit they sell. Once the head is all back together correctly the machine shop is going to check piston to valve clearance and decide what is needed to do about my exhaust valves bending. They think it will test ok hand spinning the motor but when the engine is at 9000 rpm and everything is stretched that they make contact. So 3 years ago the first time I revved to redline I bent all my exhaust valves with their theory. Meaning all my dynos and etc have been on bent valves! Either a thicker Headgasket or I have to fly cut my pistons for more clearance. We'll see what happens. (again found exhaust=.250" intake=.290" so that is plenty of clearance) Thinking they bent from extreme valve float.

Stock vs ARP Washer
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Stock vs ARP washer
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ARP Washer
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ARP Washer Thickness
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Stock Washer
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Stock Washer Thickness
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Head from ARP washer Embedding
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Head with ARP washer laid in
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Head with stock washer laid in
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Hux Racing chromoly step washer
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Hux Racing chromoly step washer with ARP laid on top
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Pistons kissing the head
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Close up of the piston coatings wore off and the exhaust valve reliefs
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New SuperTech valves
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BADNEWS

Member
Since my 650awhp dyno back on September 28th, 2013 these are the problems I have found and fixed since then:

-Bigger 1.19 A/R Turbine Housing (vs .95 A/R on dyno)
-Crank trigger came loose (welded it so it has to stay)
-Bigger vent in fuel cell to help pump (ruined 2 pumps, one was on the 650 dyno session)
-Bigger fuel filter before the pump
-Taylor Plug Wires (Nology had problems over 30psi)
-E85 fuel (vs 110 octane race gas)
-Bigger billet turbo FP HTZ4094R "6768" (vs cast Garrett 4088R "6368")
-Going to be able to run more boost like 40+psi (Last dyno was 33psi max)
-Bent exhaust valves (still need solution cause not sure of the problem yet)
-Valve float at high boost (New higher pressure valve springs
-Hux Racing chromoly step washers (ARP washers embedding into the head)
 

athousandleaves

New member
Be careful with the higher pressure springs in the head, I recall a post over on one of the MR2 forums where they attributed the frequent breaking of camshafts to higher strength springs...

Not sure if this is the right thread but theres some good info about the valvetrain there anyway. http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=4 ... ics/440599


Amazing you were doing this well with bent valves all along...
 

underscore

Well-known member
Is the ARP washer problem only something that happens at high power levels, or at any power level? I'm about to put ARP hardware in but I'll stick with the stock washers if the ARP's might cause problems.
 

sleeper

New member
underscore":3obm36ka said:
Is the ARP washer problem only something that happens at high power levels, or at any power level? I'm about to put ARP hardware in but I'll stick with the stock washers if the ARP's might cause problems.


i`v seen it on as low as 397awhp... ( daily\trackday car)
 

BADNEWS

Member
athousandleaves":1aky5ucm said:
Be careful with the higher pressure springs in the head, I recall a post over on one of the MR2 forums where they attributed the frequent breaking of camshafts to higher strength springs...

Not sure if this is the right thread but theres some good info about the valvetrain there anyway. http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=4 ... ics/440599


Amazing you were doing this well with bent valves all along...

I already looked up the specs of about every valve spring for the 3S-GTE. The problem I found is that some companies have about the same pressure as the GSC Beehive I'm getting but with the bigger (standard size) retainer they are not meant for the rpm I am turning. All the companies were claiming that they are only good to the 8000-8500rpm and like 35psi. GSC is the only company that had a spring/retainer setup that was designed to handle 9000-9500rpm, 40-45psi of boost, with a 272 10.4mm lift cam. Below are the specs of all the valve springs I found. If the companies website didn't list their spec I emailed them for it. Only the Engle one I got from the exact forum thread you linked but I had read that and got the info on them before.

Brian Crower
Seat-1.350” (34.3mm)-85lbs
Open -.900” (23mm) (11.5mm lift)-200lbs
Coil Bind- .820” (20.8mm)

Engle (ATS sells these)
Seat-1.358” (34.5mm)-78.5lbs
Open -.900” (23mm) (11.5mm lift)-132lbs
Coil Bind- .857” (21.8mm)

Ferrea Dual Springs
Seat-1.378” (35mm)-65lbs
Open-.984” (25mm) (10mm lift)-185lbs
Coil bind-.591” (20MM) (15mm lift)

GSC Standard (rated to 8200 rpm and 32psi)
Seat-1.354” (34.5mm)-74lbs
Open-.921” (23.5mm) (11mm lift)-200lbs

GSC Beehive (don’t sell this kit anymore) (rated to 9000rpm and 35psi)
Seat-1.354” (34.5mm)-70lbs
Open-.954” (24.2mm) (10.3mm lift)-173lbs
Coil Bind-.590 (15mm)

GSC Beehive (revised with 2JZ Springs) (rated to 9500rpm and 45psi)
Seat-1.354" (24.5mm)-82lbs
0pen-.954' (24.2)-205lbs
Open-.904" (23mm)-225lbs

HKS
Seat-1.394” (35.4mm)-55lbs
Open-.972” (24.7mm) (10.7mm lift)-155lbs
Coil Bind-.941” (23.9mm)

Jun
Seat-1.36” (34.5mm)-66lbs
Open-.965” (24.5mm) (10mm lift)-160lbs

Kelford
Seat-1.42” (36mm)-85lbs
Open-.900” (23mm) (13mm lift)-175lbs

SuperTech Single Spring (was told "couldn't" handle my needs)
Seat-1.368” (34.75mm)-59lbs
Open-.896” (22.75mm)-175lbs
Coil bind-.815” (20.7mm)

SuperTech Dual Springs (was told "maybe" these could handle my needs)
Seat-1.398” (35.5mm)-77lbs
Open-.925” (23.5mm)-222lbs
Coil bind-.815” (20.7mm)
 

BADNEWS

Member
Machine shop just tested one of my new springs.

@ 1.354" or seat pressure is 90lbs

@ .954" or 10.15mm of lift is 220lbs

They said when they break in they may come down as much as 5 lbs of tension. But still this is a big jump vs the Ferrea set I had before.
 

BADNEWS

Member
Stopped by the machine shop today. I found out they had to machine the ID on the spring seat area to fit the GSC beehive springs. They have that all done. They also already installed all my new exhaust valve guides. They were starting on my valve seats to repair them but it was cutting like crap. Then the guy noticed that he was to bare aluminum in one. They looked closely and it seems Toyota has a coating or spray on material for the valve seats vs press in ones and mine is all gone. They have never seen anything like it before. So they are now changing them to press in ones like the video below.

https://youtu.be/wnDDpTBYMS4
 
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