1026 GT-Four Normal Body

Corey

Active member
Let me know if you decide to sell the 16x7's, I think I might have a good future home for them.

Will do bud. Still fighting with the guy on GT4oc to get my new wheels packed up... :pissed:

Looks good Corey ! Coming to the ogopogo this summer??

Thanks. Probably not unfortunately, course progress has been slowing down and projected grad date isn't till some time in August now.
 

Corey

Active member
My new OZ wheels are finally on their way. I also ordered a set of the GT4OC replica TTE Mirrors. Based on the pictures I've found of them installed, I'll need to remove some material along the bottom edge if I want to make them fit without overlapping the door's lower window seal.

Yesterday I installed a Moroso oil catch can. My car has been blowing a lot of oil into the straight intake system (what doesn't get sucked into the turbo pools into the air filter) so this should stop that.

The location is where the old charcoal canister used to mount. I think I'll have some steel tabs welded onto the strut tower bar and mount it there down the road.

catchcan1.jpg


catchcan2.jpg
 

Corey

Active member
The wheels and TTE mirrors have arrived. I'll post up pictures of the wheels once tires and mounted and on the car.

The mirrors leave a lot to be desired. As was described by others who have purchased them recently, they require work to fit them to the car. In addition, the left and right mirrors are not "mirror" copies of each other. They are very different when placed side by side.

The mirror glass used is nice, however it was very poorly cut out, the corners are too rounded compared to the FG housing, leaving gaps.

It's going to take a cutting wheel and some resin to trim the mirrors to make them more symetrical with each other, and to remove excess material along the bottom of the mirror which is preventing it from even fitting to the door.

From what I understand, this is so they can be fitted to all 3 models of GT4. But that said, for 250$ plus shipping (I combined it with my wheels in this case, but they quoted me 75 pounds to ship to Canada) they are very expensive. For the price I was expecting something better finished.
 

CSAlltrac

New member
Corey Darling":257ouxfg said:
The wheels and TTE mirrors have arrived. I'll post up pictures of the wheels once tires and mounted and on the car.

The mirrors leave a lot to be desired. As was described by others who have purchased them recently, they require work to fit them to the car. In addition, the left and right mirrors are not "mirror" copies of each other. They are very different when placed side by side.

The mirror glass used is nice, however it was very poorly cut out, the corners are too rounded compared to the FG housing, leaving gaps.

It's going to take a cutting wheel and some resin to trim the mirrors to make them more symetrical with each other, and to remove excess material along the bottom of the mirror which is preventing it from even fitting to the door.

From what I understand, this is so they can be fitted to all 3 models of GT4. But that said, for 250$ plus shipping (I combined it with my wheels in this case, but they quoted me 75 pounds to ship to Canada) they are very expensive. For the price I was expecting something better finished.

Adjustment is pretty much a joke as well. My advise to you would be to only worry about getting one solid bolt with a good size washer and rubber grommet. I tried for a while to get alignment good while utilizing all three holes. Gave in. I wonder if the carbon upgrade is any better finished. They sure are a lot more $$. What can you do though, he is the only one offering these items up with zero competition for quality.
 

Corey

Active member
I found a grinding wheel and shaved off nearly 1cm off the bottom edge of the mirrors, and took some material off in other places to better match them to each other.

The result - I'm able to get one of the mounting screws threaded, enough to see how it looks. I still need to take some material off the bottom to get it right, but its getting there and I think it's going to look great when cleaned up.

aftertrim1.jpg


aftertrim2.jpg


More needs to come off of this point.
aftertrim3.jpg


aftertrim4.jpg


aftertrim5.jpg
 

Corey

Active member
The mirrors are essentially finished. There are a few small details that are bothering me, but otherwise, they are good to go.
They took a lot of work to mount properly. The right side in particular needed one of the 3 mounting holes relocated and re-tapped and a great deal of sanding to remove excess material and gel coat which was preventing it from seating properly into the mirror mount. The left side on the other hand was nearly perfect.

I tried my hand at cutting new glass mirrors since the originals were so bad. I used a generic convex replacement mirror I found at Can Tire for the material, and used a cheap mastercraft glass cutter to etch the shapes out. From there is was as simple as snapping the glass along the cut lines.

intleftmirror.jpg


intrightmirror.jpg


I also completed the HVAC AC button delete by creating a blanking plate out of plastic mudflap material I found at Canadian tire which had a very similar texture and colour to the HVAC plastic. I glued it to the back side of the HVAC unit using black RTV sealant which means it isn't a permanent mod and can be reversed if so desired.

At the same time, all the HVAC and cluster bulbs were replaced. I replaced the HVAC bulbs with OEM (I tried LEDs but they are far too green and produce hot spots of light behind the HVAC). The bulbs for the cluster were replaced with #73 T1.5 bulbs. I had to order these in because most stores only carry #73 or 74 bulbs with a T1.75 base - which is too wide for the bulb housings.

hvac1.jpg


hvac2.jpg


hvac3.jpg


Also, my new OZ 17"s are mounted with fresh Continental Extreme Contact DWS 225/45/17 tires. Here is a comparison shot of the 16s vs the 17s with the same brand of tire. My car looks has about as much ground clearance as the Safari car right now.

16v17.jpg


wheels1.jpg


wheels2.jpg
 

Corey

Active member
Just ordered replacement weather stripping for the upper door frame. Heads up - there are about 2 of these left in all of NA.

I'm also trying to track down some new door mirror mounts. The rubber seal on one has been slowly splitting open for years now where it meets the window. Unfortunately, these are unavailable in NA. I'm looking into finding good condition used mounts, and trying sources overseas.
 

CSAlltrac

New member
Mirrors and wheels look great! That wheel gap though :wink:
I like what you did with the convex mirror glass. I might have to do this so i can gain a little bit more visibility
 

Corey

Active member
Yeah the car could stand to be half an inch lower now. Coilovers are still on the wish list.

I removed the rear interior plastics the other day to get at a rear quarter panel dent I caused a couple weeks ago when I dropped a tool. Took it to a guy in Edmonton to get fixed and he did a good job getting it flattened back out.

But while I was at it, I decided to remove all the excess wiring harnesses in the back half of the car. ABS, speaker and antenna harnesses have now been deleted.

That project is now done and I'll post some pictures up soon once I organize them. BUT, then I found some concerning areas of small rust formation on the panels aft of the front doors. This is caused by a leaky foam seal on the black plastic door vents (in the door jams) and a bit of water finding its way into the sunroof drains.

Last time I checked these areas 3 years ago, they were perfect.

I also found damage to the rear left wheel well. - Something managed to puncture the rubber rock-guard-coated steel near the top of the well. This has allowed water to trickle down the top face of the well, towards the front of the car. It should be an easy fix.

So, needless to say, I'm glad I decided to dive into that wireing removal project, or else I never would have found these issues.

I'm now determined to delete this sunroof - but in the mean time, I'm thinking about hooking up small RC aircraft fuel tanks to the ends of the aft drain tubes to capture water, and I'm going to seal off those rectangular drain holes in the bottom of the chassis near the pinch rails. Since I have no speakers, the drain tubes are easily accessed via the rear speaker covers which just pop out, so I can keep tabs on how much water they are collecting.
 

Corey

Active member
Harnesses for rear speakers, ABS computer and RR ABS sensor, and keyless entry computer.
RS_Before1.jpg


All gone!
I also applied black RTV to those plastic nipples for the exterior plastic ding-guards. I found that some water was leaking into the car via those holes. (RTV wasn't yet applied in this picture)
RS_After1.jpg


Harnesses for ABS accelerometer, rear speakers, power antenna, LR ABS sensor, and an extra connector that was never used - not sure what is was for.
LS_removed.jpg


LS_removed2.jpg


Much cleaner - sorry for blurry picture.
LS_After1.jpg


Power antenna wiring deleted.
Antconnector.jpg


During.jpg


The number of connectors running from the back of the car to this kick panel has been reduced to just two, with a number of extra wires de-pinned from the remaining connectors.
Kickpanel.jpg


This surface rust was caused by the sponge and a leaky door vent seal. I washed both sponges, removed that rust and applied some paint to the area. I also made some new seals for those vents.
LS_rustspot.jpg


Here is that puncture in the steel wheel well. I filed the area flat, applied JB weld, and some rust inhibitive paint to repair it.
LS_Wellpunct.jpg


I didn't have access to a scale, but it's a lot of wire. I saved all the connectors since they are hard to come by. If anyone needs them, let me know and I can mail them out.
rmvdwires.jpg


I took pictures of the work as I went so I could refer back to how the harnesses were wrapped. This way I could replicate it when re-wrapping. I used high quality 3M electrical tape and the OEM split coils and sheaths - can't even tell all this wire was deleted. I kept and reapplied the factory inspection labels and harness-part-number tapes.

Down the road I'll have to remove the front ABS wiring harnesses. The front harness connects to the rear harness I deleted via that large, foam wrapped white connector by the kick panel. I'll also delete the rest of the system 10 wiring if I ever have the entire dash out again.
 

CSAlltrac

New member
Car is nice and tidy man. Its nice when even the inner 1/4 panels are solid and clean. If your panels are out still do yourself and the car a favor. There is a wax product that can be sprayed down into all those hard to see areas and it will leach into everything and seal/protect it. I did my rockers, Both quarters, and front aprons on my car. If the areas were to ever see water again it will just bead off rather than sit and cause issues. BMW uses it a lot on their vehicles, its actually the substance that you can see dripping down the rocker on some older cars. Link Below
http://3mcollision.com/3m-rust-fighter-i-08892.html
 

Corey

Active member
underscore":3afsghqi said:
The new wheels look great! You need a comparison shot for your signature.

I resized the images in PS to scale them correctly. With the 17's the car is about 1.5 cm taller now, and it's noticeable in the corners. Next on the project list - coilovers or lowering springs.

16s.jpg


17s.jpg


CSAlltrac":3afsghqi said:
Car is nice and tidy man. Its nice when even the inner 1/4 panels are solid and clean. If your panels are out still do yourself and the car a favor. There is a wax product that can be sprayed down into all those hard to see areas and it will leach into everything and seal/protect it. I did my rockers, Both quarters, and front aprons on my car. If the areas were to ever see water again it will just bead off rather than sit and cause issues. BMW uses it a lot on their vehicles, its actually the substance that you can see dripping down the rocker on some older cars. Link Below
http://3mcollision.com/3m-rust-fighter-i-08892.html

I'll definitely keep that stuff in mind. It's all buttoned back up, but the panels don't take long to remove.
 

Corey

Active member
Yeah, but now I have the option to buy even larger brakes. Maybe the Revolution kit.

That said, these brakes are pretty good. It took nearly 100km of very fast road racing to fade them. The wheels were ticking and clanking them selves cool.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I forgot that you had the K Sports. I'm actually tempted to downgrade my Porsche/Brembo setup to something like those so I can fit 16" rims, that way I don't have to buy a dedicated set of 17" snow tires for the one SnowX a year that's run here.
 

Corey

Active member
Update: Now living in Quebec - can't get the car insured for less than 2600$ a year and they require Sherlock numbers to be stamped all over the car. :bangshead:

So it's sitting indoors now. Not sure what I'll do with it in the spring.

I did have the car appraised though - $12,800 plus tax ! So I'm pretty happy to have that on paper. Too bad no one will insure it.
 
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